Hard brake line diameter? (1 Viewer)

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I'm really excited about documenting this because no one who has done this has really documented the bypass/removal of the ABS and the LSPV.

Well the issue is not that no one has done this. Many have, including myself, but I guess the problem is that modifying your braking system, especially doing things like getting rid of ABS, is illegal and probably would--in an accident situation--cause you significant grief.

Especially if the insurance or investigating body figures out that you have significantly modified your braking system and then caused or were involved in an accident.

The issue becomes that most people are so used to ABS systems that many people do not know how to brake with a regular hydraulically regulated system which does indeed work differently than an ABS-actuated and controlled system.

Anyway, while I support this work (and I do since I've been running without ABS for 5 years or so), please be cautious how you do this work and how you advertise it.

:cheers:
 
I'll be careful beno. I don't see any difference in removing ABS vs adding aftermarket extended brake lines. It is still an alteration from stock on a brake system that would probably get you in some significant trouble if you caused a serious accident. Driving cautiously is going to keep me from creating serious accidents. If the ABS system is broken on my vehicle anyway, I don't see how removing the system is illegal (if it is illegal, then I'm braking the law driving with the actuator not working ;)), and I have no problem posting how I do that. We both can agree, that a braking system is not something you half @$$.
 
I pull my first line and what do I see? Double Flare! What happened to bubble? I was obviously wrong, and it is a painful mistake because I bought all bubble connectors and the tilton manual valve. Live and learn!
 
I pull my first line and what do I see? Double Flare! What happened to bubble? I was obviously wrong, and it is a painful mistake because I bought all bubble connectors and the tilton manual valve. Live and learn!

That sucks!
I would of tried it without a PV first. I think you will find you will like 100% of rear available pressure to the rear.
Where are you planning to mount the MPV at?
 
Well I hooked it all up reusing a 90 degree from the rear line I removed and the T underneath the MC. It is pretty solid with out the MPV. We will see how it goes.
 
Do you have pics on where you routed your lines?? I need to do the same, my abs hasnt worked in ages( pt kit) help out the visual learners :)
 
I'll start a new thread on this when I'm ready. My wife, three kiddos and myself have had the flu now for over a week, so I haven't had much time or energy. I bought a KD Tools bubble and double flaring kit. The speed bleeders are incredible! The only issue was one out of the four bleeders didn't work. I called speed bleeder and they are sending me a new one. A wonderful company to do business with. I'll get you a complete visual guide soon!
 
Update, when i just rebuilt my calipers i noticed the speed bleeders on the front were slightly crushed on the bottom where the hole is on the bottom, the part that threads into the caliper. Looks like the tip of the bleeder is bottoming out. Still worked fine for me when installed havent got the system back together yet.
 
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Found some more info which might help, while looking on fabbing up some lines for my junk.

School Me In Flaring - Pirate4x4.Com

Dafun, looks like if you can buy the double flare dies you can still do it with you setup you bought. You can also use 3/16 tubing.
 
I've got it all figured out now. Stock brake line is 4.75mm OD. The fittings are M10x1.0. Flare ISO Bubble. Torque is 11 ft/lbs. The plan is a complete removal of the ABS and LSPV. I'll replace the LSPV with an engine bay mounted Tilton proportioning valve. The ABS MC will be re-used. I'll start my own thread with pics when it begins. Right now I'm just getting all the parts together.

The Tilton manual proportioning valve will be mounted underneath the MC where the three way fitting once was. The ABS MC has only two outlets, on more forward on top, and on more to the rear on the side. The rear outlet will connect to the new Tilton valve and then to the line running to the rear. The front has two lines and they will be connected to the more forward outlet using a new three way fitting. In the rear, two lines come into the LSPV, with only one coming out in the stock configuration. I'm only using one of the stock lines to the back, and a new tube joiner will connect the single lines. This keeps cutting, flaring and bending to a minimum.

I'm also installing speed bleeders and longer brake lines cause I'm going to 12" travel Doetsch prerunner 8000 shocks soon. I'm really excited about documenting this because no one who has done this has really documented the bypass/removal of the ABS and the LSPV. And I will also be fabricating spring retainers to keep my wee springs from coming unseated.

This has been a fun thread of talking to myself, but I learned alot from the research. Of course no one even threw I guy a bone on this site :clap:.

So your saying that its a 4.75MM OD, I tried using 3/16 and compression fittings but fittings would go over original brake lines. I only need a couple ft that is why I was going to go this way, did you order 4.75MM lines and if so from where? Any advice would be great, thanks.
 

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