I have a 97 LX450 with 295K miles. Yesterday morning I was backing out from the driveway and when I pushed brake pedal it became quite hard to push, but I was able to stop. Today the same thing happened when I was about to park the truck. I checked and had to ad a bit of brake fluid, but it didn't help. Does it sound like a vacuum problem or a brake booster is going bad?? Any Ideas........... Thanks
Hard brake pedal when braking (1 Viewer)
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
sounds like the booster is failing. try pumping the pedal a few times with the engine off and then whilst holding pressure on the pedal (the pedal should be fairly firm at this point) start the car.
Once the car starts you should feel the booster kick in and the pedal become easier to press
also check the one way valve for correct operation
Once the car starts you should feel the booster kick in and the pedal become easier to press
also check the one way valve for correct operation
Brake booster going bad, or bad vacuum line going from it to the manifold.
If the line is the same age as the booster, change them both.
If the line is the same age as the booster, change them both.
- Thread starter
- #4
Say if the check valve is bad, I should be able to just replace it, right?
- Thread starter
- #5
With the engine off, I pumped the pedal and it became fairly firm , but after starting the truck, pedal didn't really become easier to press. I will test the vacuum hose and check valve.
Odds are....its your Brake Booster. But DO check to see that the hose is not leaking. I've haven't seen a check valve be the problem unless you live in the 'rust belt'.
Pull the hose from the intake and with engine running, check for proper vacuum at the port.
IF the hose is cracked anywhere, replace it. And if you end up replacing the Brake Booster, install a new hose as well.
If you need a new booster, get a quality one.....or you'll be doing the job again sooner than you'd like.
Squash
SILVER Star
Before the above make sure you do not have a hung up caliper.
Pull the front tires and check the caliper pistons, the pistons should move freely.
You can also pull the pads, but be careful not to pop the caliper pistons out.
Use wood shims.
Pull the front tires and check the caliper pistons, the pistons should move freely.
You can also pull the pads, but be careful not to pop the caliper pistons out.
Use wood shims.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks, Quick question. Anyone ordered one for $299 from CruiserCorps.com? I called them and ask what brand is it and they don't
know, really................................
know, really................................
You might want to do a search concerning customer satisfaction on them....
And don't buy from Partsgeek, ever.
And don't buy from Partsgeek, ever.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #10
Found Cardone 53-2728 Remanufactured on Amazon for $177, stay away from it and buy OEM or SeiKen ????
Wits' End has this kit. i picked it up a couple years ago and haven't had issues with the vintage booster.
If it comes down to having to replace the booster, these items will carry over so nothing lost in that regard.
If it comes down to having to replace the booster, these items will carry over so nothing lost in that regard.
hoser
SILVER Star
What does your current booster look like? OE or aftermarket? I highly don't recommend Cardone and absolute-wits-end has been getting a lot bad reviews lately. Should look him up before giving him any money.
- Thread starter
- #13
Thank you, Instead of Cardone, I decided to bite the bullet and will be ordering Seiken 44610-60792 from Cruiseryard.com for $565.99 including shipping and both gaskets.
lumbee1
Native American
If you haven't done so already, take a look at the vac hose coming off your booster. Check for leaks. While you're in there, you might consider a MC rebuild kit as well.
The Seiken I received from Cruiseryard did not specifiy if the plunger was already set to the right height. I purchased a special tool off ebay only to confirm that the Seiken booster was setup perfectly out of the box.
https://amzn.to/3vgSU2A I put this one on my '97 recently. Needed it in a hurry, so settled for a cheap one. For $62 it works good. This video is a good guide.
- Thread starter
- #16
As far as I understood you correctly, reading should be about 20 with engine idling? Should it be more than 20 if I increase RPM to about 2000?
Normal vacuum would be between 18-22 Hg (at idle, engine in park, engine unloaded). Naturally aspirated engine.
Increasing engine rpm (engine unloaded) will raise vacuum (assuming no restrictions).
IF you have restrictions in the exhaust system (plugged muffler or broken down CAT) then you would see a decrease in vacuum pressure.
An engine under 'load' will also exhibit somewhat less vacuum which is normal.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #18
Vacuum was about 20 at idle, engine in park. So, the issue is definitely bad brake booster. Thank you!!!
