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- Thread starter tstepp920
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brian
SILVER Star
2F
PROFessional Powertrain 842 Toyota 2F Complete Engine, Remanufactured
- Thread starter
- #24
Out of stock
Mine use to have all the problems yours currently has. It's a 1971 with the original F-engine. It is unknown if it was rebuilt in the past; however, the PO stated otherwise when I bought it (judging by the condition my engine was in, though, I highly doubt it.)
First thing that got adjusted was the valves. A noticeable increase in power but the back-firing continued on and piston #5 didn't really seem to be firing. Also, between the time that I bought it and 8 months of trouble-shooting, I constantly had to re-adjust the valves every 500 miles due to the some of them getting extreamly tight.
Second thing was a carb rebuild. You can do this at home with the small cost of a rebuild kit. Better performance during acceleration. The carb was pretty plugged up. Still some sputtering and popping coming from exhaust.
Third thing was fixing the frozen heat-riser valve on the intake/exhaust manifold. It was stuck on the closed position. When removing the manifold and peering into the side of the engine, you could see that some of the valves had a ton of carbon deposite and sludge. These were cleaned out by poring some diesel fuel, into the exposed valves, and brushing off the grime with a toothbrush. A gun cleaning rod and dry patches were used to pick up the mess left inside. Diesel fuel was left, sitting over night, with the process being done, once more, the next morning.
Manifold was put back together with the heat valve working, sludge/grime removed, new exhaust doughnut gasket, new oem muffler, and new tailpipe were added.
No more backfiring. Valves no longer need to be adjusted every 500 miles due to excessive tightening. #5 piston firing correctly now. Tons of power. The old F-engine is running like a top on ice. I take it off roading every weekend with no hickups or hesitations. Try working on yours first before spending a ton of money unnecessarily.
I was ready to do the same thing as you, rebuild the engine or get a new doner, before my father (who's owned his Fj40 since 88') talked me out of it and helped me along the way. Hopefully this information proves to be helpful. Good luck
First thing that got adjusted was the valves. A noticeable increase in power but the back-firing continued on and piston #5 didn't really seem to be firing. Also, between the time that I bought it and 8 months of trouble-shooting, I constantly had to re-adjust the valves every 500 miles due to the some of them getting extreamly tight.
Second thing was a carb rebuild. You can do this at home with the small cost of a rebuild kit. Better performance during acceleration. The carb was pretty plugged up. Still some sputtering and popping coming from exhaust.
Third thing was fixing the frozen heat-riser valve on the intake/exhaust manifold. It was stuck on the closed position. When removing the manifold and peering into the side of the engine, you could see that some of the valves had a ton of carbon deposite and sludge. These were cleaned out by poring some diesel fuel, into the exposed valves, and brushing off the grime with a toothbrush. A gun cleaning rod and dry patches were used to pick up the mess left inside. Diesel fuel was left, sitting over night, with the process being done, once more, the next morning.
Manifold was put back together with the heat valve working, sludge/grime removed, new exhaust doughnut gasket, new oem muffler, and new tailpipe were added.
No more backfiring. Valves no longer need to be adjusted every 500 miles due to excessive tightening. #5 piston firing correctly now. Tons of power. The old F-engine is running like a top on ice. I take it off roading every weekend with no hickups or hesitations. Try working on yours first before spending a ton of money unnecessarily.
I was ready to do the same thing as you, rebuild the engine or get a new doner, before my father (who's owned his Fj40 since 88') talked me out of it and helped me along the way. Hopefully this information proves to be helpful. Good luck
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #26
Is there such a thing as a master"this is what you need to do a 2F rebuild" on this forum. A parts list and sequential order guide
No what he is saying is the 350 sits so far forward you actually need the 60 top.
There's no guarantee on what you'll need other than the Toyota Master Rebuild gasket and seal set.
Piston bores need to be inspected so you can order the right pistons. Rods should be inspected and magnafluxed for fractures.
All the moving components, crank, cam , valves etc checked and replaced if needed. Hard to know until it's broken down. Best to
let the machine shop give you the list. Most "quoted" rebuild costs do not include a crankshaft replacement or complete head replacement in the event that those pieces are unusable. 2F cranks are expensive as are usable heads. A certain popular vendor sells a reground crankshaft for 1780.00 or 1880.00 depending on the year.
I went back and re-read your posts. You said this:
So, why not just get it running (I am sure you have a clue, or can find one here) and then see where you're at.
So, why not just get it running (I am sure you have a clue, or can find one here) and then see where you're at.
I suggest you pull the engine out and take it apart or at least take the head off before deciding a direction.
A ring job and a valve job may be all you need.
I bought a used 2F and took it apart to rebuild expecting to be replacing everything and it needed very little.
Most parts measured at or near the factory specs.
The rings were all jammed in the grooves with carbon, valve seats were a little pitted but the cylinders didn't even need to be bored.
In truth, a good cleaning would have been sufficient and the motor would probably outlive me.
A ring job and a valve job may be all you need.
I bought a used 2F and took it apart to rebuild expecting to be replacing everything and it needed very little.
Most parts measured at or near the factory specs.
The rings were all jammed in the grooves with carbon, valve seats were a little pitted but the cylinders didn't even need to be bored.
In truth, a good cleaning would have been sufficient and the motor would probably outlive me.
I sure wouldn’t pull the engine without first checking the compression. That’s so easy to do, but I would suggest pulling all the plugs and squirting in some Marvel Mystery Oil or ATF first and let set a few days.
I have had 2F engines rebuilt for a little over 3200.00, but I pulled, cleaned, stripped and delivered the engines to the rebuilder.
I have had 2F engines rebuilt for a little over 3200.00, but I pulled, cleaned, stripped and delivered the engines to the rebuilder.
+1 1fz
Plop a battery in it and do a compression test. No sense discussing new engines until you determine if you need one. Many old 2Fs need a valve job with new valve stem seals, and that fixes the compression and blue smoke issues. A properly running 2F (especially at sea level) has plenty of power. Add TBI EFI and you will get some added driveability as well.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
I have a 40 series H55F and searched for it because I knew I would keep the 2F and wanted shifters in the correction location. If your mainly concerned about having a five speed and shifters in the correction location and not what is under the hood. You could probably sell your current used 40 series H55F and buy a brand new 60 series for little to no extra cost. If I had planned on a V8 that is the route I would have gone. Or could trade someone tops and have them throw some case in.
It is funny didn't seem that long ago if your 2F rebuild someone would recommend buying a good used one as those could be had cheap. I wonder if it because they are drying up or with the value of restored one with the original drive train seems to be higher then one that been modified. Keeping original power train isn't as cheap as it use to be.
It is funny didn't seem that long ago if your 2F rebuild someone would recommend buying a good used one as those could be had cheap. I wonder if it because they are drying up or with the value of restored one with the original drive train seems to be higher then one that been modified. Keeping original power train isn't as cheap as it use to be.
When I die I pray the angels come with a Cruiser like that to bring me through the gates.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
The 1FZ-FE would be a sweet engine in a 40 series. But would probably still want a H55F over a later five speed because I believe all those would move the shift cane and transfer case lever back. Only the H55F with a 40 series top plate would work for me. That requires a adapter. I do not see a clutch master cylinder. Assume a automatic? How long is the rear driveshaft?
I agree with everyone else that you need to do further research to determine what condition your motor really is in. Start with the compression test. That will tell you everything you need to know.
If you have a solid engine and just need head work, than you'll be saving yourself a ton of money in the long run. No sense in rebuilding a motor that might not need it and throwing money down the drain.
If you have a solid engine and just need head work, than you'll be saving yourself a ton of money in the long run. No sense in rebuilding a motor that might not need it and throwing money down the drain.
2F! $7-9K seems WAY high. Mine was rebuilt in 2013. I believe the bill was about $3800. First evaluate what is going in before assuming it truly needs rebuild. Mine did not need complete rebuild.
