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Fayetteville, North Carolina
I am approaching the "make up your damn mind" point with the drivetrain of my 40. Do I rebuild to original 2F at anywhere from 7-9k according to what I can find online. I can't get anyone to commit to doing it much less giving me an estimate. AND that includes vendors on MUD and the oracles of all things 40. Or do I do a LS swap at 9-10k at least. God help me for even thinking it. I have a H55F with the 40 series top. It will be going into my 40. That is not up for discussion. I am not building a museum piece but the thought of putting something other than a Toyota engine in my rig is almost disgusting. The custom bellhousing by the FJ Company does make the 1FZ option intriguing. But hell that would be about the same if not more. Does it really take 10k to get an engine in this thing? I have removed the battery and the battery tray. It has been sitting for almost 2 years. Is it still possible to get a good compression test?
 
it won’t cost that much if you can do it yourself but having someone do it for you yes that’s a fair price. remind yourself what you love about your rig and what you use it for. that’ll help make up your mind what engine to use. i went diesel in my 62 as i use it mostly for long road trips and and for adventure travel. my 40 i went diesel because i thinks it’s cool and i had a good engine when my 2f blew up. i love the style of the 40 so resto mod was ok to me. i didn’t love the 2f but many do and you might be one. in that case rebuild it and keep it stock. it’s your truck. make it fun for what you use it for


.... and show us some pics of what you’ve got to start with.
 
x2 on the pics and more info on the truck. I have all Toyota drivetrains in all my trucks but have always respected a well done v8 conversion. Depending on what you want to do a good used 2F may be an option.
 
After my response went back and re-read your post. Why do you think the current motor is shot if you wonder how to get compression?
 
After my response went back and re-read your post. Why do you think the current motor is shot if you wonder how to get compression?
My original plan was to rebuild everything top to bottom end to end. BUT dollars are adding up big time. I now know I should have checked the compression. The 5 digit odometer reads 37K +. I did do a visual using a borescope. Some carbon on top of 2 pistons. Based on the borescope inspection I don't believe there is any damage. Smokes a little when starting. Back fires occasionally. I am sure someone that actually had a clue could make a few adjustments and it would run fine. I just hate to think of putting all together and then HAVING to yank the engine for a rebuild. The cost, or better, unknown cost for an engine rebuild is as much as I was planning for the engine+transmission+transfer case combo.
 
Back to tech, Do you have the head off or is it still a pretty complete motor still in your truck? Is the battery and tray the only thing removed?
 
Did you call these guys?
 
It should not cost 7-9k to rebuild a 2f, if you pull it and reinstall it yourself. If it is just a long block rebuild you should be able to get it done for half that price. If you are paying a shop to do everything I guess I understand.

2f or ls, do what ever suites you. The closer to original you keep it the more value you retain. If that matters to you.

I have a 383 I am selling because I want to get back to a toyota drivetrain. Like you for some reason the Chevy in a Toyota just doesn't do it for me. You are going to spend a lot either way. Go with what you really want.
 
tstepp,

You do not need the special 40-series top plate from a H55F to use the stock tunnel holes if installing a Chevy V-8.

There should be an engine rebuilder within some driving distance, and if you remove and bring in the 2F engine they can and should check it including the head to see if it's rebuildable. You can reinstall it, adding the head and clutch and hook-up and not be at $7-9K.

A Chevy transplant involves more than just the engine, in cost and time.

However, if you're looking for a hands-off ultra-top quality installation, the sky is the limit for costs.
 
You asked, so I'll pile on my advice. I would start by trying to nurse the current situation back to health. I have no idea what rebuilding a 2f entails. My buddy does restorations for a living and he charges ~$1000 bucks for labor and another 1k for parts. The bad news: he mostly works on Chevy and Ford stuff, and he is baffled by what parts for the 40 cost.
 
Back to tech, Do you have the head off or is it still a pretty complete motor still in your truck? Is the battery and tray the only thing removed?
breather, fan blower, battery, battery tray and carb fan have been removed. The engine has not been touched.
 
Did you call these guys?
I have not. I will check them out. Thanks
 
It should not cost 7-9k to rebuild a 2f, if you pull it and reinstall it yourself. If it is just a long block rebuild you should be able to get it done for half that price. If you are paying a shop to do everything I guess I understand.

2f or ls, do what ever suites you. The closer to original you keep it the more value you retain. If that matters to you.

I have a 383 I am selling because I want to get back to a toyota drivetrain. Like you for some reason the Chevy in a Toyota just doesn't do it for me. You are going to spend a lot either way. Go with what you really want.

I will take the engine out and reinstall it myself. That figure I can live with.
 
tstepp,

You do not need the special 40-series top plate from a H55F to use the stock tunnel holes if installing a Chevy V-8.

There should be an engine rebuilder within some driving distance, and if you remove and bring in the 2F engine they can and should check it including the head to see if it's rebuildable. You can reinstall it, adding the head and clutch and hook-up and not be at $7-9K.

A Chevy transplant involves more than just the engine, in cost and time.

However, if you're looking for a hands-off ultra-top quality installation, the sky is the limit for costs.
I want the H55F & 40 series top plate so I don't have to alter the transmission tunnel and because its rare. Dumb ? Maybe. But thats what I want
 
Before I pulled that motor I would check compression, and a few other things to make sure it needs to be done, these 2Fs notoriously go long miles. even if yours is 135k that is a young engine. back firing, a little smoke can mean a lot of things, not necessarily time for a rebuild.
 
I want the H55F & 40 series top plate so I don't have to alter the transmission tunnel and because its rare. Dumb ? Maybe. But thats what I want

The point Bear was making is with a V8 everything moves forward. The 60 series top cover will line up with the original openings in the inspection cover if you plan and set the V8 right.
 
I'll 2nd the Mosley motors. I think it's around $6k for a "hot rod" 2F. Get a rebuilt carb from Marks Offroad or JimC and you will have a heck of drivetrain with the H55f. $7-$9k seems way high for a 2F rebuild. I have much less than that in rebuilding my 13BT diesel including turbo, injectors and Injector Pump.

That being said, if you have only pulled those few thing, you only need the battery tray in to get the engine compression tested and see.
What color of smoke on startup? White? Black? Blue?
If your compression is good, I would get that carb rebuilt by JimC or MarksOffroad, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, adjust valves, clean fuel lines/tank and start there. Thats pretty low hanging fruit and can make a world of difference and not much money at all.

Pictures of the engine/rig?
 
1st gen V-8 is the cheapest V-8 option, 2nd gen is the second cheapest, ...and so on. First and second gen give you many more transmission options. Anything but a transmission that came stock behind a gen 3 motor requires extra parts if at all an option.
If given the task of keeping in a budget I go second gen. I find a high mileage ( cheap) 5.7 from a early 90s GM. I buy a brand new crate
long block motor complete with GM warranty for 2000.00. Swap all the brackets and peripherals from the old to the new. With the second gen you have the option of autos from the powerglide to 700r, and a dozen or so manuals including SM420, 465 and NV4500
using stock bellhousings. You only need one adapter kit whether you put it behind the engine to use the Toyota trans or behind a
GM trans to mate to the Toyota T-case. First gen , little to no wiring. Second gen , 250.00 wiring harness+ computer. First gen,3-5 psi
fuel system. Second gen , 12-15 PSI fuel system. Field repairs are easier on low pressure systems.
If you live in a very smog restrictive area the second gen will pass easier if you aren't great with carbs and unlike the 3rd gens you'll not need to have the chip tuned after you're done. For someone without a lot of experience the second gen is easier. Two injectors vs eight.
One coil vs eight plus relay. 12-15 psi vs 45 -55 psi fuel system. Second gen will use stock parts for many transmission only requiring one adapter vs 3rd gen where you have only a couple auto choices or a NV4500 465, 420 with $pecial flywheel adapter kit in addition to your T-case adapter. Twice the adapters for manual.
 

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