You could always ground the body to the frame some place that is convenient with a short heavy cable. Then you can ground the batt to whichever has better access to the batt location. But I think a lot of things are already grounded to the body.
Grounding a Battery
- Thread starter RFB
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Just adding to what @leonard_nemoy already said.
By "AC" I am meaning it in the most general way.
Absolutely anything that wiggles instead of steady and flat over time.
The 60 Hz sinusoidal AC in your house is only one particular type of "wiggly", but many more "interesting" (troublesome?) waveforms are out there.
Electrical noise is AC, in this sense.
Yeah. You could add several short body to frame straps distributed around, front to back, both sides.
Taking advantage of that big piece of metal, adding it in parallel to the body, reducing total resistance even more.
Couldn't hurt.
I think a lot of cars have a heavy braided ground strap from engine to body.
Pre-made, ready to purchase.
We have always added an addition frame ground to all of our Land Cruiser.
Installed and provided many for a lot of local guys
Another LCP secret menu item
Upgrade your Land Cruiser / Lexus factory ground system.
Currently you have a large and a small wire on your battery ground. The smaller wire goes to the body and the large wire goes to your engine block. We provide you wire a #4AWG and hardware to for an additional ground from the battery the frame. Guys with dual batteries will want to do both batteries. If you ever lose your ground to the engine block all your electrical will back feed to the small wire to the body. This small wire and it low capacity does not provide an adequate ground in the event a main ground failure. The worst case is the smaller wire can melt causing the strong possibility of fire. Guys with dual batteries with high amperage battery banks can make this situation a bigger problem.
In the end the ground upgrade does
Installation is a simple 1 banana.
1 - Attach the new ground wire to the Negative side of the battery. Run the wire straight own the the frame where you will find a M8 captive nut to bolt the other end of your ground with using the included hardware. The extra nut is for shipping and if one chooses another point of termination on the frame. We do recommend using the factory location over any other. The factory point of attachment on the frame has been verified to be on all 80,Lx450,100,LX470 on both sides.
Single battery - $18.50
Dual batteries - $28.50
All 80's have a perfect add-a-ground place. A captured nut directly below the battery on both sides.
On my 80 a second battery is mounted at the rear and ground it to side of the frame. In the past I have used this grounding system for providing power to a rear mounted winch without issue.
We use #4 welding cable
Installed and provided many for a lot of local guys
Another LCP secret menu item
Upgrade your Land Cruiser / Lexus factory ground system.
Currently you have a large and a small wire on your battery ground. The smaller wire goes to the body and the large wire goes to your engine block. We provide you wire a #4AWG and hardware to for an additional ground from the battery the frame. Guys with dual batteries will want to do both batteries. If you ever lose your ground to the engine block all your electrical will back feed to the small wire to the body. This small wire and it low capacity does not provide an adequate ground in the event a main ground failure. The worst case is the smaller wire can melt causing the strong possibility of fire. Guys with dual batteries with high amperage battery banks can make this situation a bigger problem.
In the end the ground upgrade does
- Provide a back up safety ground to your electrical system.
- Give one the ability to safely use the frame as a ground for other accessories installed.
Installation is a simple 1 banana.
1 - Attach the new ground wire to the Negative side of the battery. Run the wire straight own the the frame where you will find a M8 captive nut to bolt the other end of your ground with using the included hardware. The extra nut is for shipping and if one chooses another point of termination on the frame. We do recommend using the factory location over any other. The factory point of attachment on the frame has been verified to be on all 80,Lx450,100,LX470 on both sides.
Single battery - $18.50
Dual batteries - $28.50
All 80's have a perfect add-a-ground place. A captured nut directly below the battery on both sides.
On my 80 a second battery is mounted at the rear and ground it to side of the frame. In the past I have used this grounding system for providing power to a rear mounted winch without issue.
We use #4 welding cable
Good point about safety & redundancy. Dual batteries and high current loads complicates the system - more opportunity for unanticipated situations to crop up - with lots of energy available for mischief.
Plus - the Lithium battery can be even more spectacularly dangerous, depending on what chemistry, internal overheating, etc, etc.
(Don't want to go and turn a nice well behaved Landcruiser into one of those rebellious Teslas, now, do we?)
New to Lithium can you tell more? Being from AZ the heat info is of strong interest
Not I. Only know enough to be confused - yet intrigued! It's a complex subject, many variations.
Google - Lithuim battery technology, vap fires, cell phone fires, Tesla fires...
@RFB? What ya got going on with Lithium for dual battery?
I would ground to body and frame if possible. I made up a double earth for the dual battery in the engine bay to ground the second batt to the motor and the body. Was told that more is better
From experience with the Lipo batteries used in RC cars, you have to be careful when charging packs. Each of the individual cells in a pack don't like being charged over a certain voltage. Depending on age of pack, conditions of use, physical damage, etc some cells may charge faster than others. If it happens, packs go up in a horrible hot smoke show. Quality chargers that monitor each cell voltage individually can prevent that, but a crappy one, or damaged wire leads for the pack are an issue.
My understanding is that basically any variant of battery with the word lithium in it reacts somewhat similarly.
My understanding is that basically any variant of battery with the word lithium in it reacts somewhat similarly.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
I don’t have a batt in the rear but I do have some 3/0 cable running to my rear winch, positive only. Grounded winch to frame with 3/0 cable.
I have dual batts and theyre grounded to frame and block and body with I beleive 1/0, 3/0, and 1 awg cable. Frame is bonded to body with some #1, Block is bonded to frame. Block is bonded to body.
Haven’t had any issues with winch.
I have dual batts and theyre grounded to frame and block and body with I beleive 1/0, 3/0, and 1 awg cable. Frame is bonded to body with some #1, Block is bonded to frame. Block is bonded to body.
Haven’t had any issues with winch.
Ground it to both frame and body
If it's not your primary battery, you also need to upgrade the body/frame ground on that one as well
If it's not your primary battery, you also need to upgrade the body/frame ground on that one as well
RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
- Thread starter
- #32
I searched and researched lithium (for the weight savings) and the Batllebornborn Battery guysoffered me an Ambassadorship, But I was worried about cold and heat, this reLIon 100AHLT is a low temp(internal heater,runs off battery itself) and can take the type of heat(not arizona) I deal with so I ponied up (as i do) . Now Im so on the fence about keeping 2 odyessey extremes (what I have now) But with the lithium in the mix, I wouldnt NEED 2 AGMs up front at all. and I could lose 80 lbs getting rid of the odyessey 100AH. If I do that I will have a 70AH as starter/winch Battery and the ltihum would would deal with all the rest running off a redarc1225D and monitored thru a victron AND I already upgraded my alterntor to a 150 sequoia alternaotr last year or year before BUT then went ahead and bought a SBS 270amp american made (denso internal) alternator SO I have gone way overbound and Im trying to figure out what exactly I need and will be doing. Im doing that as I speak. or type.
Not sure what type of battery the OP got but usually for automotive applications the preferred chemistry is LiFe (lithium iron, not ion) and they are much safer than some of the other types while still being incredibly light and compact. If you get a good name brand LiFe battery it will have internal under and over voltage protection and cell balancing.
RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
- Thread starter
- #38
The RB100-LT series 12V 100Ah lithium iron phosphate battery can charge at temperatures down to -20°C (-4°F). The system features proprietary technology which draws power from the charger itself, requiring no additional components.
The Low Temperature Series battery has the same size and performance as other RELiON batteries, but can safely charge when temperatures drop as low as -20°C using a standard charger. The RB100-LT is an ideal choice for use in RVs, off-grid solar, electric vehicles, and in any application where charging in colder temperatures is necessary.
The RB100-LT battery meets UL, UN, CE and IEC certifications.
LiFePo4 is not the same as the other Lithium batteries. Completely safe.
