Greenbean and his mod/wish it was a build thread... (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

IronX and products like Fallout remove help get Iron and other embedded contaminates out of body and wheel paint.

Check some of the links near bottom of OP:
LX470 to build or not to build...
Second to last link is Body trim polishing & correcting compounds. @landylover21 has some great tip on detailing.

I went with micro fiber DA system, which is a bit pricy and not available at HF only online. Cutting pad are different from polishing or waxing's pads. Along with Lacquer thinner & a really good de-waxer & degreaser, which was used a lot by me.

I also like marine grease which I coat rust prone bolt, parts & undercarriage with. It holds on well even when washed with high pressure. Works to prevent rust and helps keep bolts & parts from freezing-up (stuck on do to corrosion).

 

[landylover21]

So will I use one pad for each step? HF sells three types of pads but is the paf doing the work with the product? I though about just buying somw if the same so the prodyctr does the work.

Also can I buff off the cleaner and cutter with the same new pad? I plan on buffing the wax part with a new pad anyways.

I'm not a fan of the Harbor Freight pads, yes they're cheap but they fall apart quick and don't give the best results.

If you do buy the HF D/A make sure you have a flexible backing plate; the one that comes with it is made from steel and doesn't have any give at the edges so it shreds pads and increases the chance of damage to the paint if the pad isn't perfectly flat. Edit: from the pics, it looks like they may have upgraded the backing plate, can't really tell.

Each pad has a different cut for use with different cut compounds, a lot of this has to do with heat involved in working each chemical. Yes, you can use a lighter cut pad with a heavy cut compound in a pinch but it's kind of senseless.

You want to use the least amount of cut that will work most effectively to get the job done... IE: if your truck has swirl marks don't use something like Meguiar's 105 or another heavy duty compound.

In your case I'd wash with the two-bucket method with grit guards, claybar, and then figure out how much cut you need. 105 can be a major bitch to work with only because it's so aggressive and can be a pain to remove if it's not applied correctly.

It's kind of hard to "prescribe" what you need without seeing it in person or at least close up shots, but 205 would be a good start. That in a small amount on a polishing pad then removal by hand would be your best bet. When I was prep manager at Jag/Land Rover one of my guys used the buffer to actually remove the residual polish and wax, and yes it saved him time but made for horrendous results which looked worse than before he started.

If you are going to buff remember to tape off any trim/plastic pieces.

I wouldn't worry about the glazes, as they are pretty much polishing oils and have no correctional ability (they just hide things). If I'm prepping a vehicle for a car show, that's usually what I use just because it makes the colors pop, but in your case (and most everyday cases) it's just extra time spent on a step that really isn't necessary.

That topped with some Meguiar's 21 (professional version of NXT 2.0) and you'll be good to go.

Oh, and welcome to Mud.

Rich

 

[Greenbean]

So I read this is the FSM...
NLGI #2
Then in TS I find these, (pic below)

Would the marine grade be better? I haven't had to buy grease in years and was loaned a pneumatic gun to hit the zerks with.

All you guys who know more than me give me a recommendation.

 

[Coastalcop]

I used Mobil one synthetic grease. Meets NLGI#2 spec . But that's just me (other than it was a good red color making it easier to tell when it forced the old grease out of the seals)

 

[Greenbean]

Good point, being able to see what is where under there. Appreciate the recommendation.

I'll be picking up something tomorrow afternoon.

 

[Greenbean]

I'm not a fan of the Harbor Freight pads, yes they're cheap but they fall apart quick and don't give the best results.

Oh, and welcome to Mud.

Rich

Thanks Rich,

The more I think the more I need to be realistic so I may just pick up some bonnets for my little 8" orbital and just use the cleaner and some gold class wax, both Meguiar's. I mean it's already got 436K on the paint so I just want a decent clean shine before winter here in WNC. The hard times are going to be cleaning all the window perimeters and door jams from years of not being really detailed. Lol...

 

[Greenbean]

So I also put the front on stands and pulled the front skid/gravel guard and I can't tell yet for sure if I have a leaking rack or possibly the filter location. I swear the fluid looks red though and doesn't smell at all like oil.

I think I need to look into a project and replace the sway bar bushings and rack bushings.

Poly or factory rubber on the sways?

Was going to call Slee about the rack bushings tomorrow.

Big question for all you home mechanics out there. The FSM says to jack it up and support it by the frame rails. Problem is they are high, lol... Where and what brand of stands are you all using?

I have some 3 ton from HF that should work in the rear but not even close for the front.

I keep saying to myself "we are not in Kansas anymore Toto!"

My stands were perfect for my Honda days, lol.... Timex is a bit larger! Hahaha

 

[Coastalcop]

I use the hf 6 ton stands , usually catch them on a sale between 29-39 a pair. Plenty high and stout enough to hold frame or axle without issue ( my real problem is getting enough lift from the floor jack with the 285s, nothing a cut 4x4 doesn't fix )

 

[Matserelli]

Congrats on the rig! It's really clean for the miles. Take care of that girl and she'll run forever!

One recommendation for the roof - popular among 80 guys - is to use a bedliner called Herculiner. You can get it in any color, including white, and is a DIY product that has great texture results simply from just rolling it on.

Herculiner Truck Bed Liner Official Site | Herculiner #1 Roll On Truck Bed Liner

I've used Herculiner many many times, it has pealed, faded, and has an awful uneven rough texture. When I was restoring an old Willys I decided to try something new. I tried this stuff:
Monstaliner do-it-yourself roll-on truck bed liner outperforms Herculiner Bed Liner, Duplicolor and Rustoleum Road Warrior
I'm glad I did, awesome stuff! Herculiner uses particles in the paint to create the texture, Monstaliner does not. The roller and paint itself creates the texture. This stuff is durable, and its very easy to create an even "good-looking" texture.

 

[Greenbean]

I use the hf 6 ton stands , usually catch them on a sale between 29-39 a pair. Plenty high and stout enough to hold frame or axle without issue ( my real problem is getting enough lift from the floor jack with the 285s, nothing a cut 4x4 doesn't fix )

10-4, I may check out the larger/longer ones as I can see if you could support it via the frame rails in front you would have loads of room to work. And I have a 3 ton jack from them that works great.

I've used Herculiner many many times, it has pealed, faded, and has an awful uneven rough texture. When I was restoring an old Willys I decided to try something new. I tried this stuff:
Monstaliner do-it-yourself roll-on truck bed liner outperforms Herculiner Bed Liner, Duplicolor and Rustoleum Road Warrior
I'm glad I did, awesome stuff! Herculiner uses particles in the paint to create the texture, Monstaliner does not. The roller and paint itself creates the texture. This stuff is durable, and its very easy to create an even "good-looking" texture.

I appreciate the heads up. I saw some vids on YouTube about that stuff. Will definitely keep it on the list.

I'm going to get a Line-X quote for just my bumpers as I am curious.

 

[DirtDawg]

I've used Herculiner many many times, it has pealed, faded, and has an awful uneven rough texture. When I was restoring an old Willys I decided to try something new. I tried this stuff:
Monstaliner do-it-yourself roll-on truck bed liner outperforms Herculiner Bed Liner, Duplicolor and Rustoleum Road Warrior
I'm glad I did, awesome stuff! Herculiner uses particles in the paint to create the texture, Monstaliner does not. The roller and paint itself creates the texture. This stuff is durable, and its very easy to create an even "good-looking" texture.

Lol I meant to recommend monstaliner, thank god im almost off my pain meds

 

[2001LC]

So I read this is the FSM...
NLGI #2
Then in TS I find these, (pic below)

Would the marine grade be better? I haven't had to buy grease in years and was loaned a pneumatic gun to hit the zerks with.

All you guys who know more than me give me a recommendation.

View attachment 1349238

View attachment 1349239

Cheap $3 marine grease is for rubbing on parts to protect from rust & freeze-up of bolt and wheel to hub due to corrosion. Do not use as wheel bearing or chassis grease.

I too use Mobil one wheel bearing & chassis grease for all service points. I avoid moly fortified grease in wheel bearing & spider joints as it holds in heat. For axle needle bearing & bushing FSM calls for #1 synthetic lithium soap base grease, but the M1 #2 is just fine there as well. I use M1 for all oils, lubes & greases, including M1 MV ATF for transmission and power steering. Toyota red LL mixed 50/50 with distilled water (demineralized water) for coolant. -KISS-

 

[2001LC]

So I also put the front on stands and pulled the front skid/gravel guard and I can't tell yet for sure if I have a leaking rack or possibly the filter location. I swear the fluid looks red though and doesn't smell at all like oil.

******

View attachment 1349384

View attachment 1349387

I like to remove #1(skid plate) & #2 undercarriage shielding. Then photo graph underside, engine bay, and wheel wells paying special attention to oily spots. Next wash with degreaser and high pressure water. Then drive and watch daily for leaks to reappear. This is best way to find starting point of leaks.

Four very common leaks;
1) Power steering fluid reservoir hoses, just re-clamp with screw clamps after cleaning and flushing.
2) Valve cover gaskets & spark plug tube seal, just torque valve cover bolts will work 80% of time.
3) The two heater Tee's at back of engine, need replacing.
4) Steering rack, replace or reseal. Can use ATP AT-205 re-seal it's a seal modifier, buys time.

Make sure to keep eye on weep holes. One below harmonica balancer (lager lower pulley in front of engine). One at bottom of bell house at bottom rear of engine.

 

[2001LC]

I think I need to look into a project and replace the sway bar bushings and rack bushings.

Poly or factory rubber on the sways?

Was going to call Slee about the rack bushings tomorrow.

**

View attachment 1349384

View attachment 1349387

Poly for steering rack tie down bushing is only choice, unless replacing rack. Rubber for other if you can get them, IMHO ploy to stiff.

 

[Greenbean]

I like to remove #1(skid plate) & #2 undercarriage shielding. Then photo graph underside, engine bay, and wheel wells paying special attention to oily spots. Next wash with degreaser and high pressure water. Then drive and watch daily for leaks to reappear. This is best way to find starting point of leaks.

Four very common leaks;
1) Power steering fluid reservoir hoses, just re-clamp with screw clamps after cleaning and flushing.
2) Valve cover gaskets & spark plug tube seal, just torque valve cover bolts will work 80% of time.
3) The two heater Tee's at back of engine, need replacing.
4) Steering rack, replace or reseal. Can use ATP AT-205 re-seal it's a seal modifier, buys time.

Make sure to keep eye on weep holes. One below harmonica balancer (lager lower pulley in front of engine). One at bottom of bell house at bottom rear of engine.

Thanks for the detailed heads up,

Yeah I was telling the wife tonight as she rolled in from work and saw Timex sitting under the carport without front wheels and on jack stands that I needed to remove another plastic pan and then clean real good and drive it to pinpoint the leaks.

The PO already did the heater "Ts" when he replaced the radiator at 412K.

 

[landylover21]

Thanks Rich,

The more I think the more I need to be realistic so I may just pick up some bonnets for my little 8" orbital and just use the cleaner and some gold class wax, both Meguiar's. I mean it's already got 436K on the paint so I just want a decent clean shine before winter here in WNC. The hard times are going to be cleaning all the window perimeters and door jams from years of not being really detailed. Lol...

I hear you, sometimes a finish that's not showroom ready but cleaned can suffice until it can be tended to later.

On really disgusting door jambs I'll use my pressure washer and carefully spray each jamb being careful not to spray any water into the cabin, through a door speaker, etc.

 

[Greenbean]

So I realized the 3-ton stands I used for a few years on my Tacomas and the wife's CRV are nowhere near a safe or tall match for the 100,

So I did some research and made some calls trying to source some 12-ton stands locally. O'Reilly's wanted 180+, negative ghost rider! Advanced wanted about 120 but had to order, same as before. Checked HF and they had 12-ton stands but for some reason I didn't bite. Found a smokin deal at Tractor Supply on 6-ton units with no secondary locking pin on sale for 20 a pair. I still wanted 12s though. Found out if you call Northen Tool they will price match their website. I scored two sets of 12-ton secondary locking pin stands for 69.99 each pair. HF wanted 109 for one pair and I'm almost positive these are based off of or even made by Torin.
Also you can get the Northern Tool 6-tons now for 40 a set.


So removed the bash plate and plastic guard and will get some degreaser tomorrow and head to the pressure washer and try and get a good clean base to see what's going on here.


Oh no no!

That's much better!

 

[Coastalcop]

Nice score!

 

[Greenbean]

Nice score!

Thanks,
Figured someone else may be in need for some serious duty stands, that are cheaper than HF with a secondary pin...

Just call your local NT and check the web price, the guy looked em up on the PC there and then went and checked inventory and put two sets up front on a cart with my name in them to hold them for me. Says a lot as each box is about 65lbs.

I was very impressed with them as I have to pass Tractor Supply t get to them but they earned my business for sure.

 

[Greenbean]

OK so I got the metal guard and plastic guard pressure washed today and pressure washed the front under body.

Pretty sure one of my leaks is the power steering unit. I have a lot of seepage through the lines from the resv which is odd. (or is it?)


Yup it was that kind of day.

I did however spend some time tackling cleaning the dash and gauge display and repairing two bulbs. Well one I just re-purposed. Moved the seat belt flashing red bulb over to my cruise indicator. The second was for my "D" light. I know a lot of you mentioned to leave it out as it's bright well I'm to OCD to have it not working so I decided to try a smaller bulb I removed from a "new" old stock Honda dash or switch bulb. It was the last "small" bulb I had in my tool box.

It's PERFECT!

Dimmer than all the others... I decided to do this as those bulbs don't have any colored "condoms" on them. They just shine through the colored lens on the display. The pictures show the difference in size of the bulbs but I'll try and show the difference in brightness somehow.

Also figured out a very easy way to make the felt around the upper column cover look fantastic.

Turn it over! Lol...