Goose Gear Plate System - Question

[MCtree]

In talking to the dealer (who is communicating with GG), I am starting to think that there are only the 4 6mm tie-down bolts for my vehicle. It’s tough getting definites.

I contemplate drilling to find a couple of the hidden threaded holes.
But in looking at TDcruiser’s post
(Locating (hidden) captive nuts for ARB rear drawer install Heritage Edition - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/locating-hidden-captive-nuts-for-arb-rear-drawer-install-heritage-edition.1219139/#post-13240503) none of those 4 holes match up with the sharpie marks in my pictures.

So I don’t think I could use ARB templates to find the threaded holes.

What do you guys think about me drilling into my floor in the sharpie mark circled in red in the pic below (and the matching spot on the other side)?

My thoughts are to get two more bolts in so the plate is held down by six bolts total. 4 of the 6mm bolts and 2 of the 10mm.

Let’s say I drill into one of those spots and find no threads. Could patch the hole with JB weld? Or is this just a dumb/rash idea since the plate is wood and the wood will give way before the 4 existing steel bolts do?

 

[Tex68w]

Or if you punch the holes you could still use a bolt there so long as you could get a washer and nut on the backside.

 

[MCtree]

Or if you punch the holes you could still use a bolt there so long as you could get a washer and nut on the backside.

I thought about that, but I don’t have access to the backside - at least not without removing the aux gas tank. It pretty much occludes the entire cargo area.

 

[Tex68w]

I thought about that, but I don’t have access to the backside - at least not without removing the aux gas tank. It pretty much occludes the entire cargo area.

Sucks you're dealing with this, I am somewhat local to you but I have a third row model so I am not sure how seeing mine would help you any.

 

[MCtree]

Sucks you're dealing with this, I am somewhat local to you but I have a third row model so I am not sure how seeing mine would help you any.

Would you be able to look at the spot I circled above and tell me if there is a bolt there?
Just as a check to make sure I’m not wildcatting into a dry hole (to use Houston oil as a metaphor.)

And I mean, is there a bolt in that general area on a LC with the third row.

 

[Tex68w]

Would you be able to look at the spot I circled above and tell me if there is a bolt there?
Just as a check to make sure I’m not wildcatting into a dry hole (to use Houston oil as a metaphor.)

And I mean, is there a bolt in that general area on a LC with the third row.

I’ll take a look shortly and report back.

 

[Tex68w]

In talking to the dealer (who is communicating with GG), I am starting to think that there are only the 4 6mm tie-down bolts for my vehicle. It’s tough getting definites.

I contemplate drilling to find a couple of the hidden threaded holes.
But in looking at TDcruiser’s post
(Locating (hidden) captive nuts for ARB rear drawer install Heritage Edition - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/locating-hidden-captive-nuts-for-arb-rear-drawer-install-heritage-edition.1219139/#post-13240503) none of those 4 holes match up with the sharpie marks in my pictures.

So I don’t think I could use ARB templates to find the threaded holes.

What do you guys think about me drilling into my floor in the sharpie mark circled in red in the pic below (and the matching spot on the other side)?

My thoughts are to get two more bolts in so the plate is held down by six bolts total. 4 of the 6mm bolts and 2 of the 10mm.

Let’s say I drill into one of those spots and find no threads. Could patch the hole with JB weld? Or is this just a dumb/rash idea since the plate is wood and the wood will give way before the 4 existing steel bolts do?
View attachment 3188169

There are indeed holes there on either side where the brackets mount for the third row seats. Now, whether or not your two-row has those below the surface metal is questionable. I can't imagine they have two different sheet metal P/N's for the few two-row's they sold but who knows.

 

[MCtree]

Thanks, Tex68!

And Huzzah, ladies and gents!
There are, indeed, threaded holes down there!

You can see the bolt screwed in.
And the tools I used in case anybody else attempts this. Maybe not the prettiest work, but it will suffice.

 

[Tex68w]

Hell yes, glad this worked out in your favor.

 

[Itsky]

Thanks, Tex68!

And Huzzah, ladies and gents!
There are, indeed, threaded holes down there!

View attachment 3188445
You can see the bolt screwed in.
And the tools I used in case anybody else attempts this. Maybe not the prettiest work, but it will suffice.

That is some bad ass tech right there!!

 

[greynolds]

There are indeed holes there on either side where the brackets mount for the third row seats. Now, whether or not your two-row has those below the surface metal is questionable. I can't imagine they have two different sheet metal P/N's for the few two-row's they sold but who knows.

2 row LC200's were sold in other markets, so there are definitely more than a few 2 row's out there. It has also been established by other HE owner's that the threaded holes for the 3rd row seats are there, as @MCtree was able to confirm. I would not advise going on a drilling expedition to find other threaded holes though as I don't think we have confirmed that any others exist.

 

[jaymar]

Gotta say, this drill-through-the-metal-to-find-the-hidden-captured-nuts thing impresses me as really strange. Never seen anything like it. Have others?

 

[greynolds]

Gotta say, this drill-through-the-metal-to-find-the-hidden-captured-nuts thing impresses me as really strange. Never seen anything like it. Have others?

It's definitely not unheard of, but I'm definitely a fan of waiting for someone else to discover such things before I go drilling holes .

 

[Tex68w]

2 row LC200's were sold in other markets, so there are definitely more than a few 2 row's out there. It has also been established by other HE owner's that the threaded holes for the 3rd row seats are there, as @MCtree was able to confirm. I would not advise going on a drilling expedition to find other threaded holes though as I don't think we have confirmed that any others exist.

I had no idea that they sold two-rows in other markets, good to know. Now I am interested to hear whether or not @MCtree committed to drilling prior to me replying with confirmation photos for him lol. Balsy move regardless, I tip my hat to him either way.

 

[MCtree]

That is some bad ass tech right there!!

@Itsky
If my techiness there impresses you, get a load of the modification I did with their plate.
See my pics above in this thread where I ask if it’s normal to have the plate free-floating at the front of the plate.

I am not sure if it’s because I don’t have the correct holes so couldn’t use the supplied aluminum bushings or if the plate is just badly designed (because there aren’t any of the larger recessed holes along that forward edge where the bushing would help.)
But I rectified the situation by screwing two pieces of wood onto the too-short spacer that the plate arrived with.
See the pic below. With your sharp eye for high tech stuff - you may be able to pick out the wood I added. This is the bottom side of the plate.

I also added dynomat. Though, I have to say that I don’t think this is necessary. I think with just the plate in, it was not any louder than previously. I drove around trying to hear a difference. I think most noise comes from the engine and windows so what goes on in the cargo area doesn’t matter much. But I had already ordered it so I figured it wouldn’t hurt.
I would offer a picture of my dynomating, but it’s so ugly I’m too embarrassed. And think how bad it must be if I am willing to show my woodwork above and not the dynomat.

 

[jaymar]

It's definitely not unheard of, but I'm definitely a fan of waiting for someone else to discover such things before I go drilling holes .

I mean, given the demographic, they gotta figure a good percentage of folks might want to use them; why not just leave them accessible, right?

 

[Tex68w]

@Itsky
If my techiness there impresses you, get a load of the modification I did with their plate.
See my pics above in this thread where I ask if it’s normal to have the plate free-floating at the front of the plate.

I am not sure if it’s because I don’t have the correct holes so couldn’t use the supplied aluminum bushings or if the plate is just badly designed (because there aren’t any of the larger recessed holes along that forward edge where the bushing would help.)
But I rectified the situation by screwing two pieces of wood onto the too-short spacer that the plate arrived with.
See the pic below. With your sharp eye for high tech stuff - you may be able to pick out the wood I added. This is the bottom side of the plate.
View attachment 3188602


I also added dynomat. Though, I have to say that I don’t think this is necessary. I think with just the plate in, it was not any louder than previously. I drove around trying to hear a difference. I think most noise comes from the engine and windows so what goes on in the cargo area doesn’t matter much. But I had already ordered it so I figured it wouldn’t hurt.
I would offer a picture of my dynomating, but it’s so ugly I’m too embarrassed. And think how bad it must be if I am willing to show my woodwork above and not the dynomat.

You definitely didn't make a mistake doing the Dynomat. I added it on mine in the GX and it helped reduce noise greatly. I also added a radiant barrier material to cut down on temps as I used to sleep in the back of that vehicle quite often.

 

[jaymar]

@Itsky
If my techiness there impresses you, get a load of the modification I did with their plate.
See my pics above in this thread where I ask if it’s normal to have the plate free-floating at the front of the plate.

I am not sure if it’s because I don’t have the correct holes so couldn’t use the supplied aluminum bushings or if the plate is just badly designed (because there aren’t any of the larger recessed holes along that forward edge where the bushing would help.)
But I rectified the situation by screwing two pieces of wood onto the too-short spacer that the plate arrived with.
See the pic below. With your sharp eye for high tech stuff - you may be able to pick out the wood I added. This is the bottom side of the plate.
View attachment 3188602


I also added dynomat. Though, I have to say that I don’t think this is necessary. I think with just the plate in, it was not any louder than previously. I drove around trying to hear a difference. I think most noise comes from the engine and windows so what goes on in the cargo area doesn’t matter much. But I had already ordered it so I figured it wouldn’t hurt.
I would offer a picture of my dynomating, but it’s so ugly I’m too embarrassed. And think how bad it must be if I am willing to show my woodwork above and not the dynomat.

Looks pretty good to me. Unless you were looking to color-match.

 

[MCtree]

I mean, given the demographic, they gotta figure a good percentage of folks might want to use them; why not just leave them accessible, right?

My guess is that those holes in the sheet metal are drilled at the time of adding the third row. Like it’s part of the process when loading in that third row.

So when they don’t add the third row, the holes don’t get drilled?

 

[jaymar]

My guess is that those holes in the sheet metal are drilled at the time of adding the third row. Like it’s part of the process when loading in that third row.

So when they don’t add the third row, the holes don’t get drilled?

Yeah, but they could do it there and stop people making a mess of it later--which I might if I tried something like that...