Goose Gear Plate System - Question (3 Viewers)

[MCtree]

Right.

Hey! Post 116 is mine! I feel famous!

But yeah, I think you do need to remove the top plate to get to the bolts closest to the driver.
Though I should say that if one were to get the taller drawers, it might be possible to climb inside to tighten or loosen these bolts. That’s what I saw online and was surprised to find that I and my wife did not fit inside my drawer.

But even so, I don’t think it would take me more than 20 minutes to remove the entire drawer. And then 20 minutes to re-install it. Taking the top plate off doesn’t add much time.
Though, I only have one drawer. I would guess it would add another 10 min if I had a double drawer system.

 

[colby1979]

I removed both of my drawer modules (not the fit plate) and was able to pull the drawers off the slides via the release levers and climb inside to remove the 8 bolts. It took about ten minutes max for both, although mine are taller and allow a bit more head room.

 

[jaymar]

Ah. I didn’t know. But in looking at Goose Gear’s web page (pic below),I see that you are correct!

Though I am still curious as to why back sleeping vs side sleeping is significant.

View attachment 3211829

Catch is, you gotta buy the drawer box too. As to side sleeper, I think he means the folded-seat incline would bother him(?)

 

[rlynch356]

My comment was with a rear system only... there is a signifiant gap between the folded down seats and the drawer platform..
its also at an angle... you could fill the gap but it would still be at an angle, which probably ok for a back sleeper. For me not so much..

It's pretty evident in the pictures already posted.


No gap in a rear seat delete system.. as pictured in post #140..
which I what I am going to buy next. It's 2 pieces I assume install as individual units, but I don't have them so don't really know.

 

[rlynch356]

My install... Currently only the plate is in place..
The drawer unit takes some doing to remove/install but I can get to the back bolts with the drawer pulled out completely, and my power ratchet.
The trick is to loosen the bolts on the side so the bracket slides back and forth, then you can just slide it where you want to bolt it to (all the holes are 1/4-20), and hand start all the bolts before you whip them in the with Milwaukee.
For the side bolt which connects the cabinets together, I cut a piece of rubber tubing and fit it in the channel to hold the roll in T-Nut in place. That way you don't have to mess with it again when you reinstall and you can just put the bolt in.
I did the same on the cabinet behind the fridge, that one takes good bit longer to install since that is where my electrical setup it.

 

[jaymar]

My comment was with a rear system only... there is a signifiant gap between the folded down seats and the drawer platform..
its also at an angle... you could fill the gap but it would still be at an angle, which probably ok for a back sleeper. For me not so much..

It's pretty evident in the pictures already posted.


No gap in a rear seat delete system.. as pictured in post #140..
which I what I am going to buy next. It's 2 pieces I assume install as individual units, but I don't have them so don't really know.

If same as 80, there are left and right seat delete pieces. You want both seats gone and full-width platform at same level as drawers, you buy both. Check first to make sure your drawers are the same height, as I don't know how many drawer-height options there are for the 200.

 

[jaymar]

"For the side bolt which connects the cabinets together, I cut a piece of rubber tubing and fit it in the channel to hold the roll in T-Nut in place. That way you don't have to mess with it again when you reinstall and you can just put the bolt in."

Pic?

 

[rlynch356]

Somehow. Knew that question would come up..

Also I added a bracket to the wing panel…
And plan to install nutcerts to make it easier to remove as well as building a panel behind it to protect the plugs and gauge since I keep tools in that compartment.

 

[jaymar]

For those who have GG system in place: is it your opinion that this thing could be bashed apart/pried open in short order? I mean, most of what I hear says it's high-quality stuff, but security-wise, it looks to me like a pry bar or a hammer would make short work of it, and the joints appear to be plastic. What say you?

 

[colby1979]

For those who have GG system in place: is it your opinion that this thing could be bashed apart/pried open in short order? I mean, most of what I hear says it's high-quality stuff, but security-wise, it looks to me like a pry bar or a hammer would make short work of it, and the joints appear to be plastic. What say you?

If someone has a pry bar and is motivated they're gonna get in, it's a deterrent more than anything, I would say the same for arb, Ironman, Dobsinons or any of the other offerings.

 

[colby1979]

This is the lever for drawer removal. I removed the upper/small drawer because I didn't feel like unloading all my tools from the large one but the process is the same.

 

[greynolds]

If someone has a pry bar and is motivated they're gonna get in, it's a deterrent more than anything, I would say the same for arb, Ironman, Dobsinons or any of the other offerings.

Exactly. If nothing else, these companies are most likely trying to keep the weight reasonable. Making them very difficult to break into would most likely increase the weight by a non-trivial amount.

 

[rlynch356]

The black joints are aluminum not plastic, but the drawers are made of Birch, so while they do lock they are not security drawers.
If that is needed you need to look else where, something like Tuffy Security Products
Tactical Gear SUV Security Drawer - Universal - https://tuffyproducts.com/products/tactical-gear-large-suv-security-drawer-universal-suv/


which is whole different thing.