tucker74
Moderator
OEM or Felpro, you can get the latter at Napa77mustard40 said:
Tucker
Going Aisin-details, details, details
- Thread starter 77mustard40
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Tucker
I believe 5/16 fuel line at NAPA will work for new hard lines. I buy the steel lines and cut off the ends. You hve to use the Toyota nuts you purchased, but as PinHead said, you will have to use SAE ferrules. I get them at NAPA or the hardware store in the plumbing section.
The nuts fit just right on the proper steel line, or take off the small adaptor piece at the inlet, (the front fuel fitting) and use it, the line will fit good into it. One of those cheap bending tools, usually one in the bargain bin at the parts store, or hardware store will work just fine for bending lines.
On the return line, you can leave one end of the steel line intact, and slip the included nuts off the other and it gives you a nipple bump for the return hose near the fuel pump.
I make the lines first, and get them just where I want them, then stick the line into the carb and pump fittings snuggly with the ferrule and nut on the line and then tighten em down good. You want to reproduce those factory lines with the 1/4 inch or so projection of line past the ferrule. You also want the ferrule to crimp down squarely. That means holding the lines tight and square in the fittings as you tighten them down.
If you mess up, you are only out the time of bending a line, the steel lines are pretty cheap. I've made about three versions for mine now, I get better each time, ha ha. The first set I bent by hand, they kinked pretty bad, could not get very tight bends. Mocking up some heavy wire works too to get an idea of where you want bends. The factory lines of course run parallel to each other for most of their run, that can be hard to replicate.
The nuts fit just right on the proper steel line, or take off the small adaptor piece at the inlet, (the front fuel fitting) and use it, the line will fit good into it. One of those cheap bending tools, usually one in the bargain bin at the parts store, or hardware store will work just fine for bending lines.
On the return line, you can leave one end of the steel line intact, and slip the included nuts off the other and it gives you a nipple bump for the return hose near the fuel pump.
I make the lines first, and get them just where I want them, then stick the line into the carb and pump fittings snuggly with the ferrule and nut on the line and then tighten em down good. You want to reproduce those factory lines with the 1/4 inch or so projection of line past the ferrule. You also want the ferrule to crimp down squarely. That means holding the lines tight and square in the fittings as you tighten them down.
If you mess up, you are only out the time of bending a line, the steel lines are pretty cheap. I've made about three versions for mine now, I get better each time, ha ha. The first set I bent by hand, they kinked pretty bad, could not get very tight bends. Mocking up some heavy wire works too to get an idea of where you want bends. The factory lines of course run parallel to each other for most of their run, that can be hard to replicate.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #103
Manifold Gasket Replacement
Wasn't really sure if I should start a new thread or keep going here... anyway I yanked the manifold to replace the gasket and hopefully bring and end to the vacuum leak issue and this carb switch project.
Here are a couple of pic's of where I am
Looks like I had an exhaust leak on No 4 judging from the old gasket. Also looks like some sort of silicon gasket seal was used. I'm going to head out and find some new bolts but wanted to drop a couple questions into the LC cyber world first:
What is the best way to prep the head and manifold for re-installation? I picked up a new TEQ gasket, should I use a sealant or just go with the gasket dry?
Wasn't really sure if I should start a new thread or keep going here... anyway I yanked the manifold to replace the gasket and hopefully bring and end to the vacuum leak issue and this carb switch project.
Here are a couple of pic's of where I am
Looks like I had an exhaust leak on No 4 judging from the old gasket. Also looks like some sort of silicon gasket seal was used. I'm going to head out and find some new bolts but wanted to drop a couple questions into the LC cyber world first:
What is the best way to prep the head and manifold for re-installation? I picked up a new TEQ gasket, should I use a sealant or just go with the gasket dry?
first, get it to bright metal
John McVicker
SILVER Star
No sealant.
Some do not agree, but some folks use 2 gaskets instead of 1. I have about 3 years & 30+k on mine w/2 gaskets w/no problems.
John
Some do not agree, but some folks use 2 gaskets instead of 1. I have about 3 years & 30+k on mine w/2 gaskets w/no problems.
John
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tucker74
Moderator
Having had to do this umpteen times when I installed my MAF 6-1 (which you have), Permatex Copper is your friend Make sure you follow the instructions, meaning don't torque it down fully until it has cured, then follow the FSM instructions. You're going to want to continue to re-torque for a few weeks after as well. I've tried OEM & Felpro dry, doubled, and this way ... this is what worked.
My $.02
Tucker
Make sure you follow the instructions, meaning don't torque it down fully until it has cured, then follow the FSM instructions. You're going to want to continue to re-torque for a few weeks after as well. I've tried OEM & Felpro dry, doubled, and this way ... this is what worked.My $.02
Tucker
I never tried sealant, and had the best luck with factory style gaskets. The white papaery gasket MAF sold with the headers was a joke.
What we did do years ago when I had headers was make washers cut in half, like a half moon that filled the gap inside the intake manifold where it is machined out for a washer and the header is not. A large washer could be used to cover both I guess, but we made these half washers, with another on top to make it flush before torquing the nuts down. They even had to be ground down a bit as I recall.
What we did do years ago when I had headers was make washers cut in half, like a half moon that filled the gap inside the intake manifold where it is machined out for a washer and the header is not. A large washer could be used to cover both I guess, but we made these half washers, with another on top to make it flush before torquing the nuts down. They even had to be ground down a bit as I recall.
77mustard40
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- Thread starter
- #108
MoCoNative said:
I stopped by Sears at lunch and purchased a set of calipers. I'm planning to measure each manifold's relative bolt location and make half washers by grinding them to the required depth. Add a dab of contact cement to hold them in place while I reassemble with a lock washer to cover the half.
After a lot of reading I'm going to use copper permatex on all surfaces; head, manifolds and both sides of the OEM gasket. It's looking like a Friday night project so with cure time and final assembly I hope to report a successful conclusion to this thread on Sunday.
77mustard40
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- Thread starter
- #109
Manifolds Up!
I received an unexpected Kitchen Pass when the
went out with friends this evening, so I went to work.
Measured intake manifold depth in the recess for the washer varied from 9.955 mm to 10.002 mm, header was surprisingly close, less than a tenth of a mm so no half-washer project.
Fun began after laying a bead of copper permatex on the head and gasket and starting the install. Thank God for the world's greatest neighbor, large rubber mallets, cursing and swearing and a small mirror. Anyway it took about an hour and half to get it all together and loosely snugged, just tight enough to establish solid contact between head, gasket and manifold's. Plan is to wait 24 hours and use my banked Kitchen Pass tomorrow to torque per FSM and reinstall everything. Managed to smear some of the permatex so I hope I have all surfaces covered.
FYI don't know how the rest of you feel but I consider "Kitchen Pass" to be a proper noun, thus the capitalization.
I received an unexpected Kitchen Pass when the
went out with friends this evening, so I went to work.Measured intake manifold depth in the recess for the washer varied from 9.955 mm to 10.002 mm, header was surprisingly close, less than a tenth of a mm so no half-washer project.
Fun began after laying a bead of copper permatex on the head and gasket and starting the install. Thank God for the world's greatest neighbor, large rubber mallets, cursing and swearing and a small mirror. Anyway it took about an hour and half to get it all together and loosely snugged, just tight enough to establish solid contact between head, gasket and manifold's. Plan is to wait 24 hours and use my banked Kitchen Pass tomorrow to torque per FSM and reinstall everything. Managed to smear some of the permatex so I hope I have all surfaces covered.
FYI don't know how the rest of you feel but I consider "Kitchen Pass" to be a proper noun, thus the capitalization.
Following along closely as I am going to be doing this same job this weekend.
Only difference is my leak was where it connected to the exhaust manifold.
Hopefully we are both successful.
Only difference is my leak was where it connected to the exhaust manifold.
Hopefully we are both successful.
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77mustard40
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- Thread starter
- #112
subzali said:
Following a recommendation from a fellow Mudder to not fully torque with the permatex wet to avoid squeezing it all out, thus im allowing it to cure before final torque. This is the first time I've replaced this gasket and I'm hoping to not get a lot of practice.
Good luck, Kelly; I think driving it to the C&C on Saturday will be a good road test....
x2 on this approach. If you torque before curing, you'll risk squeezing your Permatex out and end up starting all over again.
Proper noun yes, but I'm pretty sure it's a portmanteau, one word..."Kitchenpass"
77mustard40
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- Thread starter
- #115
Left the office early and got the manifold bolts torqued, then dropped by Billy's for the Happiest Hour and a Yedi Stout with Sea Knight and Tucker74. Got the carb mounted backup and went for a test / warmup drive and still had an idle issue but not as bad. Noticed I had random vacuum variances from 16-18+ so I decided to retorque the bolts. Off with the carb and retorqued when I noticed that I had not reconnected the vacuum line to the distributor, maybe I needed another beer.
Anyway, reinstalled carb again and now I have a substantial improvement. Think I will drive it another week and then retorque one last time. Definitely will be happy with the change back to the stock carburetor.
Anyway, reinstalled carb again and now I have a substantial improvement. Think I will drive it another week and then retorque one last time. Definitely will be happy with the change back to the stock carburetor.
77mustard40
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- Thread starter
- #116
Wish my last post finished this thread, but I'm now in the middle innings chasing a manifold vacuum leak (late innings as far as patience is concerned). Here is the update.
1. I'm desmogged with two piece headers so I'm not completely stock I'm having trouble with a significant manifold leak and im now on intake gasket #3, Remflex this time. The first two were OEM with one lubed with copper permatex and the second dry.
2. Intake manifold has been laid on my bench with level placed across all the head mating surface, can't see any light under the level with a flashlight behind so it appears to be flat.
3. I measured the header flange depths and the intake manifold at each respective bolt location to make sure they are the same, don't remember the measurements but the differences were extremely small.
4. I have followed he bolt tightening sequence and torque settings each time including the lower 25 ft lbs recommended by Remflex.
5. Leak seems to be in area of the #3 & 4 intake based on carb cleaner spray technique. I have cleaned the intake and I cannot see any cracks.
Other possible issues:
6. Replaced the PCV and grommet with OEM but seem to have some oil coming into the intake, dont know if this is normal.
7. When pulling the carb after finding the latest leak the fuel return line regurgitated a lot of gas when disconnecting. Engine was hot so I don't know if this is normal.
Really wondering if I'm doing something wrong over and over, doesn't seem like rocket science but I'm getting my butt kicked on this one.
1. I'm desmogged with two piece headers so I'm not completely stock I'm having trouble with a significant manifold leak and im now on intake gasket #3, Remflex this time. The first two were OEM with one lubed with copper permatex and the second dry.
2. Intake manifold has been laid on my bench with level placed across all the head mating surface, can't see any light under the level with a flashlight behind so it appears to be flat.
3. I measured the header flange depths and the intake manifold at each respective bolt location to make sure they are the same, don't remember the measurements but the differences were extremely small.
4. I have followed he bolt tightening sequence and torque settings each time including the lower 25 ft lbs recommended by Remflex.
5. Leak seems to be in area of the #3 & 4 intake based on carb cleaner spray technique. I have cleaned the intake and I cannot see any cracks.
Other possible issues:
6. Replaced the PCV and grommet with OEM but seem to have some oil coming into the intake, dont know if this is normal.
7. When pulling the carb after finding the latest leak the fuel return line regurgitated a lot of gas when disconnecting. Engine was hot so I don't know if this is normal.
Really wondering if I'm doing something wrong over and over, doesn't seem like rocket science but I'm getting my butt kicked on this one.
tucker74
Moderator
Sorry to hear it man, was trying to keep you out of this hole 
. My final solution was one Felpro with copious amounts of copper on each side, tightened firm over night and torqued (repeatedly) the next day. I went single dry, double, fabbed half moon washers, and replaced every stud/nut/washer with OEM in between
Tucker
. My final solution was one Felpro with copious amounts of copper on each side, tightened firm over night and torqued (repeatedly) the next day. I went single dry, double, fabbed half moon washers, and replaced every stud/nut/washer with OEM in between Tucker
77mustard40
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- #118
tucker74 said:Sorry to hear it man, was trying to keep you out of this hole
Tucker
Replacing all the hardware is the only thing I have not done, but I did pick up new flat washers and even custom ground one's sides to fit it down into one of the recesses on the intake this last time.
I have resorted last night to re / over torquing the Remflex to 45 ftlb. Will see if that helps this morning before I tear it down...again.
Don't rule out SBC...
77mustard40
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #120
Ordered a Fel-Pro gasket from NAPA. Came home tonight to find the UPS box on the door step but it's been bent. Looks like the metal ring for 5&6 is seperated from the rest of the gasket. What say yee, I'm thinking it's a no go. Trying to solve an intake leak and I bet this isn't going to help.
