Going Aisin-details, details, details

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Here is the day's progress

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Cleaned up the firewall and installed the linkage bracket.

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Had to drill another hole in the insulator for one of the manifold fittings, but in all ok.

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When I set the carb, carb linkage and linkage in place I found the linkage rod did not line up from end to end. Went with a 3FE 40 bud to look at another 40's linkage. This is from that 40, the linkage was slightly different from what I have accumulated but I figured I should be able to make mine work.
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Ended up placing some of my linkage brackets in the vice and bending them to get my linkage rod to sit level and at a square 90 degrees to the front and rear bracket housings. Upon a more detailed look it appears my firewall where the back bracket mounts has been bent slightly at some time (maybe when the PO converted to cable linkage). So I placed some washers between the firewall and bracket to help square it up to the shaft, then installed the carb

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Here is the linkage installed, everything looked pretty good but I found I was not getting the full throw with the pedal ( primary was not opening to full 90 degrees). Since I checked this when I rebuilt the carb I looked at the adjustment of the long rod from pedal to linkage. In the end it appears the carpet and floor mat was possibly interfering with the full motion of the pedal, so I pulled it and bent it slightly in the vice to get full motion. Installed the pedal and now I have the carb primary opening fully.

Tomorrow: 1) cleanup and install fuel hard lines. 2) find 12V for idle solenoid. 3) hookup vacuum then fire it up and adjust, I hope.
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Back up and working.

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Detailed exam of the fuel return I picked up has me concerned about infusing someone's old rust and/or cancer into my fuel system. I can blow thru the line but I can tell it's not uninstructed. Blocked one end and filled it with carb dip, will let that soak while I address other hookups ... like

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Finding a fine thread backing to the choke cable. Purchased a brand new one, unwrapped it this morning and no nut to hold it in place. Any one know the size and thread pitch?
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77mustard40 said:
Finding a fine thread backing to the choke cable. Purchased a brand new one, unwrapped it this morning and no nut to hold it in place. Any one know the size and thread pitch?

Ive got that whole assembly in the garage if you need the nut Kelly, just give me a call ;) Looking good -

Tucker
 
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Found the idle solenoid 12v tucked away behind some electrical tape, switched fitting to match carb and tested.


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Removed the alternator and bracket to have access to the full length of the hard lines. The supply on truck the truck has more bends that a river delta but I got it to work. The return I picked up was pretty clogged. Spent the day in carb dip, running wire through it and rubbing with a scotch bright. Finally have it on, now to reassembling all I have taken apart.

Choke and vacuum lines after that followed by mounting up the air cleaner.
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Detailed exam of the fuel return I picked up has me concerned about infusing someone's old rust and/or cancer into my fuel system. I can blow thru the line but I can tell it's not uninstructed. Blocked one end and filled it with carb dip, will let that soak...

Any luck clearing the fuel lines?

edit: Never mind. Just saw your last update and pics.

Is that a crimp in the hard line in your last photo, the one on the right? Maybe it's just the pic?
 
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Sea Knight said:
Any luck clearing the fuel lines?

edit: Never mind. Just saw your last update and pics.

Is that a crimp in the hard line in your last photo, the one on the right? Maybe it's just the pic?

Yep it does have a little crimp but I think I can still get plenty of fuel thru. I would have used the supply you brought me but it's pretty clogged.

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I have it in the vice with carb dip in it and it has only dripped a small amount in the course of the day. Tried to run wire but there is definitely an obstruction. I'd like to get it cleaned out just to have as a backup.
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Yep it does have a little crimp but I think I can still get plenty of fuel thru. I would have used the supply you brought me but it's pretty clogged.

I have it in the vice with carb dip in it and it has only dripped a small amount in the course of the day. Tried to run wire but there is definitely an obstruction. I'd like to get it cleaned out just to have as a backup.

Well that sucks. Sorry. I'd suggest contacting the seller and telling him the lines are clogged and not usable. He's adding 2 more 40's to his boneyard next week. Maybe one of them will have something you can use, and I know of a reliable delivery service. ;)

Connect your vent to the air cleaner housing.
 
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Valve Cover Connection

Question, should I connect the vent off the valve cover to the air cleaner or the insulator built into the carb (between the bowl and the base)? :wrench:

The port on the insulator between the manifold and carb is going to be my vacuum source for the carb's power valve and choke.
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Well that sucks. Sorry. I'd suggest contacting the seller and telling him the lines are clogged and not usable. He's adding 2 more 40's to his boneyard next week. Maybe one of them will have something you can use, and I know of a reliable delivery service. ;)

Let me see if I can get it cleaned out. There was a big chunk in the carb fitting that came connected to the line, and when I separated that from the compression nut I got more out of the line. Hoping a little soaking and another shot of wire followed by compressed air will make progress. If I could clean it out it would definitely be a better line than the bent up original, but I don't know if I want to work backwards again. :hhmm: I'm starting to actually get close to a test fire.
 
So the large 16mm port coming out of the insulator component of the carb appears to be for the EGR. Since I'm de-smogged I'm looking for confirmation that this should be plugged.
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Finished but not running...need some help

OK I have made all the vacuum connections, installed the choke cable and double checked everything. Pulled choke and turned it over but could not get it to start.

Rechecked the vacuum system connections. I'm drawing manifold vacuum from the port on the insulator and connecting that to both the power valve on top of the carb and the choke breaker. Dizzy vacuum is coming from the base of the carb.

Checked the fuel level, its slightly higher than the halfway point in the sight glass. Someone can chime in if that needs to be addressed.

After chasing electrical connections (since I had removed the alternator to run the fuel hard lines) I tried to start it again with the choke engaged and it did start. But once it was running I found I could not completely disengage the choke without it stalling. No idle at all.

I had my daughter turn the key with my head under the hood and could not hear the solenoid. I tested the wire (shown) and get about 10.5V at the connection. If I simply touch a spare wire from the solenoid to the battery I hear an audible click at the solenoid (battery makes about 12.5V). Is there a problem with the solenoid or should I be getting higher voltage? Should I run a new wire?:hhmm:
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Solenoid works, just needs a wire that works now...
 
2. It comes out of the harness running on top of the engine. It comes from the "engine" fuse. If you don't have a wire, the closest place to connect is the IGN terminal of the voltage wire where the black wire with yellow stripe connects.

Where is the physical location of the "IGN terminal" that Pin_Head discusses. I just want to be able to go directly to the easiest source of keyed 12V for the solenoid
 
Looks like you plugged the EGR port on the carb. That's correct for your setup, or else you would have a massive vacuum leak.

I would think that 10.5V would be enough to trip the idle solenoid, but it sounds like it isn't. I would keep testing voltage on that wire further and further back to see if there's somewhere where it drops voltage, and then tie-in upstream of that, or cut and solder on a new wire from that point. It's your easiest source of switched 12V.
 

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