- Thread starter
- #21
Getting ready for front axle rebuild... finally
- Thread starter Driley
- Start date
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If i were you i would swap sides on your birfs now, or they'll be clicking in 4 months and you'll be shooting yourself in the foot. Its so easy using the steel pipe method for disassembly, and the zip tie trick for reassembly. I used a 2" aluminum pipe cause I had it laying around.
When I did my rebuild this winter the high was about 2 degrees during breakdown and clean up, not fun, but in the 20's when I reassembled everything, it felt like summer. During the process I discovered a slick method for removing the cone nuts, I think I'll post it seperately as well.
After removing the nuts, tap lightly on the side of the drive flange next to the stud, don't tap on the face of the flange where the stud comes through, but on the side of it. The cone washer comes shooting off.
Happy rebuild and swap those puppies now
When I did my rebuild this winter the high was about 2 degrees during breakdown and clean up, not fun, but in the 20's when I reassembled everything, it felt like summer. During the process I discovered a slick method for removing the cone nuts, I think I'll post it seperately as well.
After removing the nuts, tap lightly on the side of the drive flange next to the stud, don't tap on the face of the flange where the stud comes through, but on the side of it. The cone washer comes shooting off.
Happy rebuild and swap those puppies now
- Thread starter
- #23
I am having trouble finding brass drifts. I checked at Harbor Freight (I like to buy tools from HF if they have no moving parts) but all they have is punches.
Also, what is the best seal puller to buy?
I have the torque wrenches (both inch and foot) and most of the hand tools (sockets and combination wrenches).
Thanks,
Riley
Also, what is the best seal puller to buy?
I have the torque wrenches (both inch and foot) and most of the hand tools (sockets and combination wrenches).
Thanks,
Riley
- Thread starter
- #24
I was not planning on swapping side, but I am in no rush to get it done. I guess it would be a good time to do it.
Thanks for the suggestion, I will plan on swapping.
Riley
I just bought a set of brass drifts from sears website. 19.99 plus shipping. You can google (brass drift punch set) if the link doesn't work for you. You can also buy a cheap seal puller from any auto parts store. I paid 12.00 for mine.
-Juan
Mayhew 3 pc. Brass Drift Punch Set - 61360 at Sears.com
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I have also done this to my rig. I wasn't clicking either but I figure what the heck i'll do since CDANs kit comes with that option. Just remeber to lock your diff if you have elockers before removing the axles. Also take note of how the birfs are assembled before you break them apart. I used a piece or PVC pipe to break them apart. The cheapest I could find around here was a 2" x 10'. I cut it in 2 sizes one for the long side and one for the short side. This worked well for me, someone here posted this on an older thread.
What you do is cut a piece about 2 to 3 inches longer than the shaft attached to the joint, put a rag on the floor where you will be smacking the PVC pipe with. Slide the birf in to the PVC pipe, with one hand hold the birf and with the other hold the pvc pipe, lift the whole assebly together and smack the floor about 2 to 3 times and it will break loose, the shaft will hopefully fall on the rag as mine did. And that's how I did mine, worked like a charm. (Thanks for whoever came up with this idea).
I'll be posting pics of my repack and regear. I'm taking my time also because I regeared and I just got my diffs in not too long ago. I'm waiting on some paper gaskets for the diffs at the moment.
good luck and hope this helps you like it did me.
-Juan
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- Thread starter
- #27
- Thread starter
- #28
I have also done this to my rig. I wasn't clicking either but I figure what the heck i'll do since CDANs kit comes with that option. Just remeber to lock your diff if you have elockers before removing the axles. Also take note of how the birfs are assembled before you break them apart. I used a piece or PVC pipe to break them apart. The cheapest I could find around here was a 2" x 10'. I cut it in 2 sizes one for the long side and one for the short side. This worked well for me, someone here posted this on an older thread.
What you do is cut a piece about 2 to 3 inches longer than the shaft attached to the joint, put a rag on the floor where you will be smacking the PVC pipe with. Slide the birf in to the PVC pipe, with one hand hold the birf and with the other hold the pvc pipe, lift the whole assebly together and smack the floor about 2 to 3 times and it will break loose, the shaft will hopefully fall on the rag as mine did. And that's how I did mine, worked like a charm. (Thanks for whoever came up with this idea).
I'll be posting pics of my repack and build. I'm taking my time also because I regeared and I just got my diffs in not to long ago. I'm waiting on some paper gaskets for the diffs at the moment.
good luck and hope this helps you like it did me.
-Juan
-Juan
Thank you for the info! The FAQs cover the breaking down of the axle, but your description was very easy to follow.
Riley
My birff kit is on it's way from CDan and I am collecting the tools and fluids now for next weekend. I am having a hell of a time choosing the grease. I guess we will see what NAPA has this weekend.
Thanks for the description on the PVC pipe now can you describe the zip tie trick to put it back together!
Thanks for the description on the PVC pipe now can you describe the zip tie trick to put it back together!
- Thread starter
- #30
Anther question, I have factory lockers but the front has never engaged (just keeps flashing). I have never needed to use the lockers so have not worried too much about it. Is it necessary to have the front locker engaged to do the axle rebuild?
I too would love to see a picture of the ziptie trick.
Riley
I too would love to see a picture of the ziptie trick.
Riley
I assembled my birfs using the zip tie method. I forgot to mention it earlier. All you have to do is install the new clip on the shaft that comes in the kit that CDAN sells, wrap a zip tie on it to compress it and hold it in place. Last, assemble the shaft and joint (depending on the size of the zip tie the shaft will only go on slightly on to the joint, just make sure you have the splines lined up before you smack in on the wood) give the birf one good smack on a piece of wood and that's it the shaft should slide right in and the zip tie slides back so you can cut it off. Did them on the first try!
-Juan
It may seem silly, but if you're doing this in a garage, make sure you have enough room from the wall to the truck to pull the long (and short) side out. When I picked up my parts from CDan he mentioned this.
- Thread starter
- #34
Good advice! That would just suck to be in that situation. I will be parked in the middle bay of a 3 car garage/warehouse so I should be good.
BenMara
Asian Redneck
ive been having trouble reinserting my axle shafts into the birf even used the ziptie trick and miss aligned it one time so had to gring off some metal i messed up
Nobody has captured a pic of this zip tie trick? Still not visualizing it.
alia176
SILVER Star
Do one side at a time so that you have something to look while reassembling. You already know this but worth mentioning anyway!
BenMara
Asian Redneck
got the splines filed down, reinstalled the shafts into he birf w/o the zip tie trick, 3 screw drivers 1 dead blow hammer, and 3 sets of greasy hands and its done didnt take long after gettin the first one in,
MoJ
Moderator
A little confusing....are you talking about inboard or outboard of the axle seal? Brake cleaner and paper towels for the cavity...
