Builds Gerry's Build thread: "If it happens again I'm buying an Abrams" (1 Viewer)

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W126 look so sexy when lowered! Are those after market fans? I think the M117 only came with mechanical fan.

Tailgate storage idea is amazing - really curious to hear abt your experience with the soft open/assisted close. I installed Huracan Fab setup in my last truck and while it allowed for a lot of storage, it's weight made it actually dangerous for my wife and kids to open and close!

Thanks Abe! They are aftermarket fans. I'm not entirely sold on them yet but there's been a bit of back and forth getting the cooling sorted. If you're so inclined, I have it all documented here: An ongoing 'soft restoration' of a 1991 560SEL - https://www.benzworld.org/threads/an-ongoing-soft-restoration-of-a-1991-560sel.3056781/page-12#replies

Fingers crossed on the tailgate storage. I just now received the latches in, so I'll update the plans right now.
 
I think the struts will help with the heavy tailgate opening, itll dampen the fast drop due to the extra weight, and should make it safe for wives and kids. As far as closing goes, youll still have the weight to over come, but how bad could it really be…. GA, great job on the design and excitation so far, im excited to see the finished product!
 
I don't have the highest hopes, but the struts I bought were advertised as 'easy close' as well. The kit is normally only the 1 strut but I ordered an extra for a pair. I don't think I plan to keep very heavy stuff in there, but the plates for the top themselves are not light weight. Fingers crossed.

I'd use aluminum but I don't have the ability to weld it at home. And I think I'm going to have to weld in a support ring to hold the lids sturdy. The factory sheet metal is not strong enough on its own to put weight on now. I designed that today and added it to my cut file.

Here's the design process, from beginning to end. I've had about 20 iterations digitally, and trying to tighten it up fast before cutting a lot more.

20240903_154257.jpg



This is where I'm at as of now. I've gotten the bolt holes dialed in and reduced to 5/16". I have 1/2" head low-pro bolts and wanted to avoid using a washer. There's a kerf-width of gap around the lid and main panel, which is perfect, and I'll have 1/2" lip on all 4 sides for the lid to rest solidly atop (in dark blue to the right). I'm just waiting on my piano hinge to arrive so I can get hole spacing from them and add those holes to the design. I hope to have a complete prototype this evening (half, at least. It's symmetrical).

20240903_154706.jpg
 
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I don't have the highest hopes, but the struts I bought were advertised as 'easy close' as well. The kit is normally only the 1 strut but I ordered an extra for a pair. I don't think I plan to keep very heavy stuff in there, but the plates for the top themselves are not light weight. Fingers crossed.

I'd use aluminum but I don't have the ability to weld it at home. And I think I'm going to have to weld in a support ring to hold the lids sturdy. The factory sheet metal is not strong enough on its own to put weight on now. I designed that today and added it to my cut file.

Here's the design process, from beginning to end. I've had about 20 iterations digitally, and trying to tighten it up fast before cutting a lot more.

View attachment 3717919


This is where I'm at as of now. I've gotten the bolt holes dialed in and reduced to 5/16". I have 1/2" head low-pro bolts and wanted to avoid using a washer. There's a kerf-width of gap around the lid and main panel, which is perfect, and I'll have 1/2" lip on all 4 sides for the lid to rest solidly atop (in dark blue to the right). I'm just waiting on my piano hinge to arrive so I can get hole spacing from them and add those holes to the design. I hope to have a complete prototype this evening (half, at least. It's symmetrical).

View attachment 3717924
I wonder if the lid will help stiffen it all back up once attached?

One thing to keep in mind though is it might be worth thinking about welding a support for the soft open struts on the inside of the tailgate - mine is bolted & glued to the sheet metal right now, but I could see it being a deformation hazard if you had a loaded tailgate.
 
I wonder if the lid will help stiffen it all back up once attached?

One thing to keep in mind though is it might be worth thinking about welding a support for the soft open struts on the inside of the tailgate - mine is bolted & glued to the sheet metal right now, but I could see it being a deformation hazard if you had a loaded tailgate.


I ended up redesigning it all this evening to include a 1/2" lip welded beneath the surface panel for the lid to rest in. I think it should be plenty strong at that point. 14ga may be reasonable to use, I can try that v2.

Agreed on the sheet metal holding this all in. I'm muling over a bracket in my head to disperse the weight better. I'll update.
 
So as I was messing with this tailgate today, I had a thought. You know how sometimes you'll hear the current rep for some old company mention how they've been using the same recipe/tool/process/design since the beginning?

Well they're ****ing liars.

I have designed this simple 2D part about 20 times before I ever cut anything, and I've redone it a dozen times since I started test cuts. Now, I'm no engineer, for sure. I'm also not any kind of creative designer. But I have to imagine I'll sell some kits, redesign/improve, wash rinse repeat. If you get one of these next year, odds are it'll be different than one that goes out in the next few weeks.

So anyway, I completed a prototype today. Kind of. I mocked up a completed unit, at least. Here's a pic:

20240905_113427.jpg


Again, not an engineer, not a designer. But I'm pretty happy with this product as it sits currently. Since the photo, I taught myself some new tricks in my processing software to make the whole thing cleaner and... toighter. The lid doors now fit closer to the dimensions of the lid door openings, and I've streamlined the support lip that lives on the bottom side of the top layer. I have designed it in 2 ways- one is a full bolt together job, with 39 bolts per half and 3 shared. I also designed a weld together version, which only utilizes the original 16 push-pin holes, plus one more in the center of where the 2 halves meet.

So far I've only done this in 12ga steel, but I think 3/16 aluminum is ideal. Unfortunately, I (and many others) can't weld aluminum at home, so the bolt together version will probably be the ticket for most. Weight of the steel is somewhere around or just under 40lbs, and the aluminum should be under 30lbs.

PM me for purchase details, not going to discuss sales here as I'm not a vendor yet.


I also tried @LJE 's trick for lowering assistance. It was a fail for me today, though. I tried using the brackets that came with my struts, but they didn't end up working. Still kicking around a bracket design in my head. If I can make that happen, that'll be another product for y'all.
 
So as I was messing with this tailgate today, I had a thought. You know how sometimes you'll hear the current rep for some old company mention how they've been using the same recipe/tool/process/design since the beginning?

Well they're ****ing liars.

I have designed this simple 2D part about 20 times before I ever cut anything, and I've redone it a dozen times since I started test cuts. Now, I'm no engineer, for sure. I'm also not any kind of creative designer. But I have to imagine I'll sell some kits, redesign/improve, wash rinse repeat. If you get one of these next year, odds are it'll be different than one that goes out in the next few weeks.

So anyway, I completed a prototype today. Kind of. I mocked up a completed unit, at least. Here's a pic:

View attachment 3719829

Again, not an engineer, not a designer. But I'm pretty happy with this product as it sits currently. Since the photo, I taught myself some new tricks in my processing software to make the whole thing cleaner and... toighter. The lid doors now fit closer to the dimensions of the lid door openings, and I've streamlined the support lip that lives on the bottom side of the top layer. I have designed it in 2 ways- one is a full bolt together job, with 39 bolts per half and 3 shared. I also designed a weld together version, which only utilizes the original 16 push-pin holes, plus one more in the center of where the 2 halves meet.

So far I've only done this in 12ga steel, but I think 3/16 aluminum is ideal. Unfortunately, I (and many others) can't weld aluminum at home, so the bolt together version will probably be the ticket for most. Weight of the steel is somewhere around or just under 40lbs, and the aluminum should be under 30lbs.

PM me for purchase details, not going to discuss sales here as I'm not a vendor yet.


I also tried @LJE 's trick for lowering assistance. It was a fail for me today, though. I tried using the brackets that came with my struts, but they didn't end up working. Still kicking around a bracket design in my head. If I can make that happen, that'll be another product for y'all.
That looks good! How well does the 'gap flapper' (lol) ride over those hinges when you go to close? I seem to remember that being some people's beef with the Huracan fab one.

Trying to fit the struts in there is definitely a challenge - not much room at all, especially with the support cables there too. I mostly just got lucky with the kit I grabbed, haha.
 
That looks good! How well does the 'gap flapper' (lol) ride over those hinges when you go to close? I seem to remember that being some people's beef with the Huracan fab one.

Trying to fit the struts in there is definitely a challenge - not much room at all, especially with the support cables there too. I mostly just got lucky with the kit I grabbed, haha.

Same problem on this one. The flappy panel catches on the hinge and the latches. I'm pondering solutions. Easy is to remove the panel, but that's a half assed measure.
 
I am both an engineer and a designer and think this looks really good. One improvement I could see for the future is to hide those hinges on the inside.
I was thinking about that too - would probably take a different type of hinge, but I think that would be SWEET. Would help with the flapper getting caught too - the total fix for that might involve making some sort of 'ramp' on leading edge of the latches in conjunction with the recessed/inner hinges.

EDIT: Maybe something like this? CONCEALED HINGES | CONCEALED HINGES | FB·B | TAKIGEN : Manufacturing for all industries world-wide - https://www.takigen.com/products/detail/26007040100
 
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I am both an engineer and a designer and think this looks really good. One improvement I could see for the future is to hide those hinges on the inside.

Sup tall Kyle. I fully agree, the hinge rod on top needs to go. Wouldn't you know it, a hinge welded to the bottom side was my last version attempted yesterday. 2 issues I ran in to though (not the fault of the design) : 1- the hinges I used did not open beyond 90° in that orientation, and I think the door needs to be able to open further. 2- I accidentally welded the hinge to the wrong side and all of my drill bits to drill the welds out broke and I got mad and decided to clean the garage and go inside at that point.


I was thinking about that too - would probably take a different type of hinge, but I think that would be SWEET. Would help with the flapper getting caught too - the total fix for that might involve making some sort of 'ramp' on leading edge of the latches in conjunction with the recessed/inner hinges.

EDIT: Maybe something like this? CONCEALED HINGES | CONCEALED HINGES | FB·B | TAKIGEN : Manufacturing for all industries world-wide - https://www.takigen.com/products/detail/26007040100
A ramp is a decent idea. If the hinge can be taken out of the equation, it would only be needed on the latches. I also like the idea of using super low profile rivets where possible.

That hinge link you posted looks interesting. And gives me some new search terms to... search.
 
OK, which one of you sly dogs sent me a box of Bosch drill bits?

IDK who you are but you are a saint. Thanks!
Hopefully they were M42 cobalt if you're drilling welds with them!
 
Hopefully they were M42 cobalt if you're drilling welds with them!

In fact, sir, they are!

1000013418.jpg


I'd ask if you're outing yourself but to my knowledge, you don't know where I live!

My Ms just wanted me to mention that we're stocked with weapons and y'all better not try s***. 😄
 
In fact, sir, they are!

View attachment 3721006

I'd ask if you're outing yourself but to my knowledge, you don't know where I live!

My Ms just wanted me to mention that we're stocked with weapons and y'all better not try s***. 😄
Ha you must have missed the note attached. Just a little payback for you driving my butt all the way to Durango and back. Love the door mat btw!
 
Ha you must have missed the note attached. Just a little payback for you driving my butt all the way to Durango and back. Love the door mat btw!
I looked but didn't see a note in there. Thanks man, that was really thoughtful.
 
1000013791.jpg



All cut, just waiting for the smoke to get sucked out of the enclosure and the water to dry off. I'll probably try to get this on the truck tomorrow and if all is well, I'll put some kind of finish on it this weekend and have a complete product to show. This will be the riveted/ bolted version, but I have an updated weld version ready to cut also.
 

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