Builds Gerry's Build thread: "If it happens again I'm buying an Abrams" (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter MongooseGA
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- Thread starter
- #723
A Saint!
Dang man- that axle looked like it broke before the wheel spin- its the turning with out rolling, applying throttle and those big fat heavy 35" MT's on that dry hard ground that didn't help matters.
Thats a no-BS trail repair situation right there: Steering rack inner tre replacement and cv axle R&R perched on that incline hill in that precarious position. Cudo's to @cruiserpatch and Knox was on hand to help get you back on the trail. GA- FYI Ive got some take off steering rack parts ya'll are welcome to disassemble if you want to carry them with you for the next guy.
Thats a no-BS trail repair situation right there: Steering rack inner tre replacement and cv axle R&R perched on that incline hill in that precarious position. Cudo's to @cruiserpatch and Knox was on hand to help get you back on the trail. GA- FYI Ive got some take off steering rack parts ya'll are welcome to disassemble if you want to carry them with you for the next guy.
- Thread starter
- #726
Took Gerry in for an alignment today and discovered both ball joints are toast. So, ordered another set and will install in about 2 weeks. Probably just after the holiday.
For reference, the last set went in at about 261k miles. We're at 331k today.
For reference, the last set went in at about 261k miles. We're at 331k today.
- Thread starter
- #727
Nope, I actually just took it out of the truck altogether the other day. It's not quite as lean-y as I'd have expected, think I'll just run it.
I may take you up on those steering rack components. Is it a pre or post '03 rack?
BTW how do you want your goodie bag sent to you? I can drop it in the mail for you.
- Thread starter
- #728
Forgot to update that I replaced the front UCA ball joints last week. The new SPC joints are no longer greasable. Not sure how I feel about that, but whatever. There is a noticeable improvement in front end feel since. Alignment is scheduled for tomorrow.
Mileage is like 332k ish.
Mileage is like 332k ish.
geo5
SILVER Star
Hi GA- I enjoy your thread, great tech stuff, BCOR vids etc.
As you’ve been triple locked for a few years I’d be very interested to hear your thoughts and some tips/tricks and best practices on the Eaton setup.
I just took the plunge, with magic dial, excited to put them to work.
As you’ve been triple locked for a few years I’d be very interested to hear your thoughts and some tips/tricks and best practices on the Eaton setup.
I just took the plunge, with magic dial, excited to put them to work.
- Thread starter
- #730
Congrats to you! You'll be glad you took the plunge.
Your front locker will likely get much less use than you expect. It makes any steering very difficult and the additional stress running through the diff is palpable, even with Nitro gears (in my case). I only like to lock the front when it's A- very gnarly and I need superlative traction B- it's a completely straight track, with really no turning required and C- the obstacle isn't a slick rock at an angle.
See, your front being locked is also going to make it more likely that the front end will slide down a slick, angled obstacle more than just running ATRAC in front. This might make more sense in practice. Rear locker you can use without any real strategy. Some guys leave it on anytime they're running trails, which is fine I guess. I normally don't unless I expect a little slippage nearby. I'd say my front gets locked about 10% of the time my rear is.
geo5
SILVER Star
Good stuff thank you. Seems like the rear locks/unlocks within about a half a wheel revolution? Kind of wish I had a dash light indicator but after using a few times hopefully I’ll get the feel for it.
Messing around in the snow the other day I definitely noticed the lack of turning with front locked. Truck is a straight line missile triple locked. Will remember the slick/off camber note for snow wheeling this winter.
Rear locker made a big difference in my brief post locker-install trial, I’ll use it as needed, depending on terrain- good to know it can be locked for longer periods of time.
- Thread starter
- #732
I've never had any issue with the lock/unlock topic in real life. It's a bigger issue on forums than I've ever noticed in reality. They even stay re-lock when you're in reverse.
The only issues I've had with mine, at all, were faulty connectors at the rear diff. My rear has stopped working several times, each due to a bad plastic connector. So, I simply wired mine straight in, without a waterproof plastic removable connector.
- Thread starter
- #733
Mileage rolled 335k last week. Did oil/filter, had tires rotated, greased the drive shafts.
The truck is feeling really s***ty at highway speeds lately. It's getting frustrating. @cruiserpatch thinks it could be due to bad control arm and rack bushings, so I've got some SuperPros to go in. He also hooked me up with some OEM LC torsion bars to replace the Tough Dogs I have in now. I'll also be doing new front driveshaft and 2x new CVs in the next few weeks.
The truck is feeling really s***ty at highway speeds lately. It's getting frustrating. @cruiserpatch thinks it could be due to bad control arm and rack bushings, so I've got some SuperPros to go in. He also hooked me up with some OEM LC torsion bars to replace the Tough Dogs I have in now. I'll also be doing new front driveshaft and 2x new CVs in the next few weeks.
cruiserpatch
Supporting Vendor
Keep the old CVs if you weren't planning to. I'll take em if you planned to discard them. Knox has been looking for a set for his truck
G.A. Translate what “feeling s***ty” at highway speeds means to you-
- Thread starter
- #736
A few issues. It feels like something is loose underneath. Nothing really appears to be. There's a really prominent driveline vibration that exists on acceleration, deceleration at highway speed, and doesn't really manifest until about 70MPH. All things point to drive shaft u-joints, but I have had so many new u-joints installed, tried out multiple full drive shafts, bought a brand new Toyota shaft... Makes me think there's something wrong that's killing my u-joints. There are also more clunks than there had been. It's also been feeling sluggish.
There's also a recent issue where during a heavy left turn that causes the front suspension to compress, there's a horrible shudder in the front end.
So, Patch came by and we poked around a bit. He noticed one of the rack bushings is toast. It's been in for 90k. LCA bushings the same and he suspected some of the clunks were signs from the LCA. The CV I put in on the trail in October is an after market and already split.
I made a list of all the parts that could be culprits.
SPC UCAs: 11/18, 220k (BJs at 261k, 332k)
Front calipers: 1/19, 225k
LCA bushings: 12/19, 246k OEM
Diff bushings: 12/19, 246k (again 317k for one, 327k for other 2 all poly)
Axles: multiple times
Steering rack: 5/20, 258k
Diff gears: 7/20 260k
bearings: 7/20, 260k
hub flanges: 7/20, 260k
Upper ball joints: 9/21 261k, 11/23 332k
rear pads: 11/21, 293k
front pads: 5/22, 306k
shocks: 7/22, 308k
engine mounts: 10/22 313k
trans mount: 10/22 313k
t case gears: 12/22 314k
trailing arm bushings: 4/23, 320k
Regarding the speed related issue that presents at 70mph-
Is it repeatable every time? Audible or mechanical?(heard or felt?) if audible, do you notice droning or resonance? If mechanical where do you feel it- steering wheel, seat, floorboard?
AM cv axles don’t always balance in our drivelines. Bad axles are more noticeably felt through the floorboard.
If you’ve ruled out tire wheel brake rotor runout variances , It’s possible that your gear install- the set up- could be presenting some of the 70+ mph issues- pinion bearing loose or worn or pinion depth/gear mesh not optimal, carrier bearings worn, or the ring gear it self. It’s a pita to get into the diffs for a look at wear surfaces ( I have a scope if you want to try that) but best to pull and inspect.
Before you do that-if you do that- if you can get your truck on a lift and run it in gear at speed while a competent tech can assess the driveline - that might help pinpoint your high speed issue
Is it repeatable every time? Audible or mechanical?(heard or felt?) if audible, do you notice droning or resonance? If mechanical where do you feel it- steering wheel, seat, floorboard?
AM cv axles don’t always balance in our drivelines. Bad axles are more noticeably felt through the floorboard.
If you’ve ruled out tire wheel brake rotor runout variances , It’s possible that your gear install- the set up- could be presenting some of the 70+ mph issues- pinion bearing loose or worn or pinion depth/gear mesh not optimal, carrier bearings worn, or the ring gear it self. It’s a pita to get into the diffs for a look at wear surfaces ( I have a scope if you want to try that) but best to pull and inspect.
Before you do that-if you do that- if you can get your truck on a lift and run it in gear at speed while a competent tech can assess the driveline - that might help pinpoint your high speed issue
- Thread starter
- #738
70+mph vibes: Absolutely repeatable. Totally consistent and you can expect when to feel them come on. Around town it's super smooth, but on the highway, ugh.
Agreed on axles. I have 2 on the list very soon.
Also agreed on gear install. I'm not nearly knowledgeable or inclined enough to dig in to that myself, but I have considered taking the whole truck to a local gear shop to have them look at it. I would likely want to do this sooner than later, because if it is a gear issue, and that's been a factor in u-joints failing (possible?), then putting on new D-shafts and CVs is only going to cost more money as they're just going to get trashed again.
Could I safely run the truck on a lift? Sounds dangerous. I like it.
- Thread starter
- #740
When running on a lift, are they somehow able to simulate the vehicle's weight being on the ground? I'm picturing a 2-post lift with suspension drooped all the way down.
I'll look into ECGS. Wouldn't there also need to be some consideration for how the gears are installed in the diff housings?
I'll look into ECGS. Wouldn't there also need to be some consideration for how the gears are installed in the diff housings?
