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A Saint!Who carries all those tools around to fix something like that??
Also that garage floor looks much cleaner than my tarp.
Did you get a new sway bar link?
Dang man- that axle looked like it broke before the wheel spin- its the turning with out rolling, applying throttle and those big fat heavy 35" MT's on that dry hard ground that didn't help matters.
Thats a no-BS trail repair situation right there: Steering rack inner tre replacement and cv axle R&R perched on that incline hill in that precarious position. Cudo's to @cruiserpatch and Knox was on hand to help get you back on the trail. GA- FYI Ive got some take off steering rack parts ya'll are welcome to disassemble if you want to carry them with you for the next guy.
Hi GA- I enjoy your thread, great tech stuff, BCOR vids etc.
As you’ve been triple locked for a few years I’d be very interested to hear your thoughts and some tips/tricks and best practices on the Eaton setup.
I just took the plunge, with magic dial, excited to put them to work.
Good stuff thank you. Seems like the rear locks/unlocks within about a half a wheel revolution? Kind of wish I had a dash light indicator but after using a few times hopefully I’ll get the feel for it.Congrats to you! You'll be glad you took the plunge.
Your front locker will likely get much less use than you expect. It makes any steering very difficult and the additional stress running through the diff is palpable, even with Nitro gears (in my case). I only like to lock the front when it's A- very gnarly and I need superlative traction B- it's a completely straight track, with really no turning required and C- the obstacle isn't a slick rock at an angle.
See, your front being locked is also going to make it more likely that the front end will slide down a slick, angled obstacle more than just running ATRAC in front. This might make more sense in practice. Rear locker you can use without any real strategy. Some guys leave it on anytime they're running trails, which is fine I guess. I normally don't unless I expect a little slippage nearby. I'd say my front gets locked about 10% of the time my rear is.
I've never had any issue with the lock/unlock topic in real life. It's a bigger issue on forums than I've ever noticed in reality. They even stay re-lock when you're in reverse.Good stuff thank you. Seems like the rear locks/unlocks within about a half a wheel revolution? Kind of wish I had a dash light indicator but after using a few times hopefully I’ll get the feel for it.
Messing around in the snow the other day I definitely noticed the lack of turning with front locked. Truck is a straight line missile triple locked. Will remember the slick/off camber note for snow wheeling this winter.
Rear locker made a big difference in my brief post locker-install trial, I’ll use it as needed, depending on terrain- good to know it can be locked for longer periods of time.
Keep the old CVs if you weren't planning to. I'll take em if you planned to discard them. Knox has been looking for a set for his truckMileage rolled 335k last week. Did oil/filter, had tires rotated, greased the drive shafts.
The truck is feeling really s***ty at highway speeds lately. It's getting frustrating. @cruiserpatch thinks it could be due to bad control arm and rack bushings, so I've got some SuperPros to go in. He also hooked me up with some OEM LC torsion bars to replace the Tough Dogs I have in now. I'll also be doing new front driveshaft and 2x new CVs in the next few weeks.
G.A. Translate what “feeling s***ty” at highway speeds means to you-Mileage rolled 335k last week. Did oil/filter, had tires rotated, greased the drive shafts.
The truck is feeling really s***ty at highway speeds lately. It's getting frustrating. @cruiserpatch thinks it could be due to bad control arm and rack bushings, so I've got some SuperPros to go in. He also hooked me up with some OEM LC torsion bars to replace the Tough Dogs I have in now. I'll also be doing new front driveshaft and 2x new CVs in the next few weeks.
A few issues. It feels like something is loose underneath. Nothing really appears to be. There's a really prominent driveline vibration that exists on acceleration, deceleration at highway speed, and doesn't really manifest until about 70MPH. All things point to drive shaft u-joints, but I have had so many new u-joints installed, tried out multiple full drive shafts, bought a brand new Toyota shaft... Makes me think there's something wrong that's killing my u-joints. There are also more clunks than there had been. It's also been feeling sluggish.G.A. Translate what “feeling s***ty” at highway speeds means to you-
Regarding the speed related issue that presents at 70mph-
Is it repeatable every time? Audible or mechanical?(heard or felt?) if audible, do you notice droning or resonance? If mechanical where do you feel it- steering wheel, seat, floorboard?
AM cv axles don’t always balance in our drivelines. Bad axles are more noticeably felt through the floorboard.
If you’ve ruled out tire wheel brake rotor runout variances , It’s possible that your gear install- the set up- could be presenting some of the 70+ mph issues- pinion bearing loose or worn or pinion depth/gear mesh not optimal, carrier bearings worn, or the ring gear it self. It’s a pita to get into the diffs for a look at wear surfaces ( I have a scope if you want to try that) but best to pull and inspect.
Before you do that-if you do that- if you can get your truck on a lift and run it in gear at speed while a competent tech can assess the driveline - that might help pinpoint your high speed issue