RevISK
SILVER Star
They sure look nice.
Builds Gen. Waverly (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter majdomo
- Start date
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i respectfully dis-agree on that topic Mr. Strip-Spike ........
if the said owner-operator pre-forms the routine Chassis Lubrication when preforming the 3000k Oil Change , per spec'd in your 8/80 FJ60 owners manual and the generals 2/88 FJ62 one too ( Adhering to the SEVERE driving conditions ) at at all times .....
- of course using the latest in : Supreme Un-Conventual JIS-Spider-Gears Lubricating Technology on the market today ...
- fitted with OEM Genuine YAMAHA Out-Board Satl-Water Series II 100% High Nickle Alloy Content Stainless Steel Inside & Out Grease Nipples ....
then , your Technical assumption is Technically incorrect ..
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@ToyotaMatt Do you buy Red Bull by the case ? 
Spicer did extensive testing on Greased vs Non-Greaseable U joints. Their results: Greaseable have a longer lifespan and have a few other advantages, but non-Greaseable are marginally stronger, because obviously, they're not hollow. I use the greaseable because of lifespan and (knock on wood), I've never broken a U Joint as I'm easy on the skinny pedal. Just something for peeps to consider when ordering DS and thanks to Gen Waverly for posting a good alternative to Wood's DS.
Spicer did extensive testing on Greased vs Non-Greaseable U joints. Their results: Greaseable have a longer lifespan and have a few other advantages, but non-Greaseable are marginally stronger, because obviously, they're not hollow. I use the greaseable because of lifespan and (knock on wood), I've never broken a U Joint as I'm easy on the skinny pedal. Just something for peeps to consider when ordering DS and thanks to Gen Waverly for posting a good alternative to Wood's DS.
@ToyotaMatt Do you buy Red Bull by the case ?
Spicer = Detroit = Sub-Standard OEM TOYOTA Parts Maker .. did extensive testing on Greased vs Non-Greaseable U joints. Their results: Greaseable have a longer lifespan and have a few other advantages, but non-Greaseable are marginally stronger, because obviously, they're not hollow. I use the greaseable because of lifespan and (knock on wood), I've never broken a U Joint as I'm easy on the skinny pedal. Just something for peeps to consider when ordering DS and thanks to Gen Waverly for posting a good alternative to Wood's DS.
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i agree mr SMOG-CZAR , we should continue your Tech-Dare outside mr. General Waverly's House ....
- Thread starter
- #305
One issue solved, another one comes up! It's been doing this dying at idle in stop and go traffic thing lately. The truck will quit off-throttle, then wake itself back up and keep going like nothing happened. I chalked it up to being low on gas yesterday, but it did it most of the way home today, had to drive with one foot on the brake and the other on the gas to keep the revs up when in neutral at stoplights. I adjusted the Golden Screw up about 1/4 turn from fully in, so that may help.
This kind of came up about a year ago, but it only happened once and then didn't occur again. Doing some research on Mud came up with this thread, which suggested it's the fuel pump relay going bad. I haven't checked it, but it's located in the same general location as the transmission idiot light "computer" which ended up being the problem with my AT idiot light some time ago, so it's not out of the question that this is the issue. Ordered from Amazon and will install tomorrow. Also ordered up some hotter plugs (W14) and a new fuel filter, just to do it as PM. I haven't changed the plugs in a while, and have no clue if the fuel filter has ever been changed.
Other than that, it's been driving great! Nice to be back on the freeway without the vibration for sure.
This kind of came up about a year ago, but it only happened once and then didn't occur again. Doing some research on Mud came up with this thread, which suggested it's the fuel pump relay going bad. I haven't checked it, but it's located in the same general location as the transmission idiot light "computer" which ended up being the problem with my AT idiot light some time ago, so it's not out of the question that this is the issue. Ordered from Amazon and will install tomorrow. Also ordered up some hotter plugs (W14) and a new fuel filter, just to do it as PM. I haven't changed the plugs in a while, and have no clue if the fuel filter has ever been changed.
Other than that, it's been driving great! Nice to be back on the freeway without the vibration for sure.
Did you get this exact one General ?
I would start with this …
Preform one step / job scope at a time …
If you go at this symptom with both a OEM part that if clogged could cause your issue ?
But then adding other new parts at the same exact time , especially ones outside the box a bit like Hotter Genuine NipponDesno U-Groove’s , and turning the all-mighty golden T/B Screw can now get your desired improvements all Katty-Wompus either in the same direction or side ways and where you are now …
- I have found 2 unique thingy’s on GHOST that drove me in-F-in-sane ..
- have you ever fully unscrewed the Golden-Screw ? You should and either plan to scoot to NAPA or have a METRIC R-134A A/C O-Rings kit on-hand , all mine are / were the TOYOTA OEM green ones , it was a smaller but fatter one , that once rolled up the golden screw shaft , popped into the groove and using my Executive Pocket Chum as a straight-edge I was able to visually see the green-O-Ring was just proud and above the golden screw flat section where the o-ring kerf groove is …
Do Not forget to apply a bit of a smear of di-electric grease to the O-ring and press it in and make sure the O-ring is nice and happy ..
The bore it screws into , I looked inside with a pen
light and saw grime and white crusty stuff ?So , I used throttle body / air intake cleaner , stuck in the red straw , held paper towel over the hole and pressed away at the can
upon that , I looked at the new white paper towel and there was some notable crust and grunge on it , but Not the black kind , this was like a lighter color stuff , never the less it was out , I shot in another burst or 2 of the air intake cleaner and used my blow
Gun w/ rag over the hole and hit it like 4-5 bursts ..,
No more grunge or white / tan scale …
One thing I took away from a 2-F Carburetors Fuel Cut Solenoid , is upon re-install , simply having some de-electric grease on the O-Ring was not really enough … On GHOST i used a tiny cue tip and applied a thin but even smear of the same do-electric grease to the Golden Screw bore …
See ,,,,
As you are turning in the golden screw , the New o-ring is rotating on the golden screws pre-lubed kerf just fine , but without its other 360’ degree outside diameter radius being in contact with lube too , it’s just binding and chafing in that side , sort of a. Dry-press in …
you will notice a nice and even feel and you #3 JIS Vessel-Flat-Head in your Golden and now very well sealed and as a result will
Fine tune as it should …
The next topic that was un-familiar to me
On GHOST was the ISC / Idle Speed Control valve , make sure you get a new OEM gasket and 2 new bolts too ..
I red-strawed in the air intake / throttle body cleaner via the back hole and shook it well when I filled it up …
Black ooze and more black stuff came out big time the first 2 routines , then it gradually got more clear until no more
Black stuff was visible being shuck out into a paper towel …
I DID NOT remove the black sheet metal cap , fyi …
I have to ask ?
Have you removed your throttle body yet and preformed and 360’ degree inside and out De-Carbon Service to it yet , ?
If not ?
Then here we are and there we go …
@cruisermatt now offers a very nice KEVLAR 3F-E throttle body gasket and it’s way way thicker then a stock one …
The golden screw and its O-ring are Not available As service parts
FYI
Hope this helps …
M
- Thread starter
- #307
@ToyotaMatt, these are both on the list of things to do, along with cleaning the ISC cone... thing. I think that might be part of the problem too. The last time I took it off, it wasn't awful, but that was well over a year ago when I had the injectors rebuilt, replaced the fuel pressure regulator and so on (all OEM). I did clean out the intake and TB at the time, which I think moves it down the list of possible culprits. But no, I haven't pulled the Golden Screw yet and will get a new O-ring to replace the one that's on there.
I also used carb cleaner on all the intake hoses, TB gasket, ISC valve gasket, etc to check for vacuum leaks, and found none. All of the smaller vacuum hoses are new(ish), but that doesn't preclude a vacuum leak from a cracked bib or something. Will go there if I have to.
The other items I'm chucking at it aren't really that big a deal and should all be done as PM, in my opinion. Since this engine has been a sludgemonster, the PO's mechanic used the hotter plugs to keep them more clear of garbage. I probably should have done the same, no big deal to swap them out. It's not fixing the problem really, but managing the symptoms. For now.
I also used carb cleaner on all the intake hoses, TB gasket, ISC valve gasket, etc to check for vacuum leaks, and found none. All of the smaller vacuum hoses are new(ish), but that doesn't preclude a vacuum leak from a cracked bib or something. Will go there if I have to.
The other items I'm chucking at it aren't really that big a deal and should all be done as PM, in my opinion. Since this engine has been a sludgemonster, the PO's mechanic used the hotter plugs to keep them more clear of garbage. I probably should have done the same, no big deal to swap them out. It's not fixing the problem really, but managing the symptoms. For now.
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Do you have a link to the Spicer study? I'd be curious as to the root cause of the failure. While greaseable joints have less material, this material is inside the body of the joint where much less stress is exerted. I'm speculating that the failure started at the threaded hole by way of a stress riser, then propagated out thus causing the failure. It would be interesting to see their data.
- Thread starter
- #309
Goog'd it, just because I was interested. Wood's put this together, fwiw the Heep guys seem to like the non-greasable ones more.
All I know is, my rig is quiet for the first time since I bought it, and I'm a happy camper!
Great, thanks for the link. Essentially, as they state, this is an opinion with no quantitative data(physical testing, FEA studies, RGT testing, mean time to failure etc) to back up the theory that the non-greaseable joints are indeed stronger. Given the factors of safety that are designed into driveline components these days, I would theorize that the failures seen in the field have multiple root causes which might be related to other issues outside the original design parameters set forth by the manufacturer.
Bottom line, I would and do run greaseable U-joints as I would bet lubrication failure is a far more common root cause of U-joint failure. No data to back this up, just observations and data points from joints that I have replaced.
I'll look for it. I read a summary of it on a Jeep Forum ( I have an '05 Wrangler).
This was exactly addressed and answered in the study: Lubrication-related failure for non-greaseable Joints was far more common than breakage with greaseable type (occasional greasing flushes out contaminants), so the non-greaseable style was really only recommended for hardcore, high horsey off roading, but that doesn't stop the Jeep crowd from preferring the non-grease style overall, even though the wide majority only seem to Daily their Wranglers in snow County.
Did you remove the throttle body assy. when you cleaned it or only when it was still mounted to the upper intake still ?
i will Hunt down the OEM TOYOTA R-134A A/C o-ring i used , out of all the O-rings i have / had on-hand , this particular one was the cat's meow meow fit , form and function ....
i was a bit surprised TOYOTA did not offer it as a service part ?
- Thread starter
- #313
Got a few things done today. Changed out spark plugs, here is the set that's been in there since I redid the valve seals in July. Showing 6-1 from left to right, looks like 3 and 4 had the most junk on them. This isn't really surprising, but I'm glad I replaced them.
Also pulled the Golden Screw and ISC. I'd forgotten that I cleaned the cone when I did the work on the engine earlier in the summer. The screw itself was full of junk, as was the bore. Lots of carb cleaner and q-tips to get that all scraped out. I replaced the O-ring on the screw and on the ISC bore with some from the hardware store, as the ones on there were basically plastic.
Put it all back together, then readjusted the Golden Screw to 1/4 turn out which got me to 650 idle. I should really recheck timing, but want to see if this makes a big difference first. Easy day today.
Also pulled the Golden Screw and ISC. I'd forgotten that I cleaned the cone when I did the work on the engine earlier in the summer. The screw itself was full of junk, as was the bore. Lots of carb cleaner and q-tips to get that all scraped out. I replaced the O-ring on the screw and on the ISC bore with some from the hardware store, as the ones on there were basically plastic.
Put it all back together, then readjusted the Golden Screw to 1/4 turn out which got me to 650 idle. I should really recheck timing, but want to see if this makes a big difference first. Easy day today.
Great write up! Where did you get the O rings for the ISC? Size? I will need to do this come spring. Ty!
- Thread starter
- #315
I took the old ones down to Ace and just found a couple that matched. The ISC is 40mm OD / ~38mm ID. The one for the screw is I think 11mm or so OD and 8mm ID. That one needed a little silicone grease to re-seat, but the next thickness down was too thin to contact the housing and seal up.
I should really redo my timing and make sure that's all in spec, it's been a while since I checked it.
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any notable improvements ?
plugs # 3 & #4 will always be different in some minor or more then minor way on all land cruiser inline 6 cylinder engines ..
#1 & #6 have coolant jackets on 3 sides , #2 & #5 have that extra shared benefit partially , # 3 & #4 only have coolant jackets on 2 sides
this is why on engine re-builds , #3 & #4 cylinders have way way more valve guide wear , valve face to valve seat pitting and wear , weaker valve spring over all pressure tested results , and lower end wear and tear is always more pronounced ... & a bit Less ( Initial ) DRY Compression test results compared to the other 4 cylinders on a higher mileage F series engine 1961-1992 ( i can't speak for a 1FZ-FE )
this has been my experience on the ones i have or have had re-built in my life .....
- Thread starter
- #317
So, some improvement but changing spark plugs, replacing the fuel pump relay and resetting the golden screw didn't make the fluttery idle go away completely. I remembered that I'd swapped out the AFM some time back with a 1993 Camry unit, and that I'd kept the original AFM in a box of 3FE take-offs. Thinking it was a 5 minute check to see if this was the issue, I swapped that out and reset the EFI computer by pulling the fuse. A test drive around the neighborhood and it's promising, seems to have gotten rid of the idle flutter when warm, but am going to drive it this week to check if it's really fixed. Fingers crossed.
- Thread starter
- #318
Drove it to work and back today, and seems fixed. Took the same route home and tried to get it to quit after the same amount of time on the freeway, by hitting the brakes with authority on the low traffic back roads and it didn't flutter at all. Just watched the idle come down nice and smooth and not have it crash and try to quit like it did 3x on Thursday.
So - don't use the '93 Camry AFM. It does work in a pinch, but I don't think it's tuned for the air demands of the bigger LC engine long-term.
Next up is replacing the channel felts in the front doors, have that on order from Amazon and should show up this week.
So - don't use the '93 Camry AFM. It does work in a pinch, but I don't think it's tuned for the air demands of the bigger LC engine long-term.
Next up is replacing the channel felts in the front doors, have that on order from Amazon and should show up this week.
- Thread starter
- #319
Fun and easy project over winter break - replace the dried out weatherstrip in the front window channel with new felty goodness from Amazon. Here's the old stuff pulled, you want 89.5" for each side. 33" from one end, cut a 90* notch for the upper rear corner. I suggest pulling the windows off the regulators, will make it significantly easier to install.
And here's what it looks like from Amazon, I got 25' of it. I might be able to do one of the rears with what's left, but would order more if I needed to.
Link to the stuff on Amazon, takes a while to get to you but worth the wait.
Windows are still difficult to crank up and down, bought replacement window regulators to show up sometime in the next week or so. BUT, this should stop some of the wind noise and certainly the leaks just over the top of the window when washing the truck.
And here's what it looks like from Amazon, I got 25' of it. I might be able to do one of the rears with what's left, but would order more if I needed to.
Link to the stuff on Amazon, takes a while to get to you but worth the wait.
Windows are still difficult to crank up and down, bought replacement window regulators to show up sometime in the next week or so. BUT, this should stop some of the wind noise and certainly the leaks just over the top of the window when washing the truck.
- Thread starter
- #320
Short update and a question for tech on the General.
Received and installed new window regulators from RockAuto, but hate them bad. The metal is super thin and the holes don't line up the way they should on the bottom of the window frame. I installed the passenger side and left it, but couldn't get the driver's side to line up so just ended up working the OEM ones a bit with some lithium grease and reinstalled the old one. I'll be pulling the passenger side one later and putting the old OEM one back, once this rain clears up.
I also replaced the driver's side exterior door handle as the frame on the old one was broken, and some strip caulk to make and install a new acella cloth behind the door card using some plastic sheeting. A cheap baggie behind the speaker also sealed up that hole, as I was getting some bad water intrusion and the door card got a little wet.
That fixed, however, I am still getting some water coming in and getting the driver's floor mat wet. I found it dripping off the gas door release handle this morning, which suggests the water is coming in from the firewall rather than the bulkhead seal (he says, hopefully...). Anyway, the big grommet on the firewall on the driver's side has a tear in it, so first order of business is to seal that up.
Thing is, what do I use to seal? I have gray RTV, 3M door gasket glue, and FIPG in the shop, but can get whatever makes the most sense.
Any suggestions?
Received and installed new window regulators from RockAuto, but hate them bad. The metal is super thin and the holes don't line up the way they should on the bottom of the window frame. I installed the passenger side and left it, but couldn't get the driver's side to line up so just ended up working the OEM ones a bit with some lithium grease and reinstalled the old one. I'll be pulling the passenger side one later and putting the old OEM one back, once this rain clears up.
I also replaced the driver's side exterior door handle as the frame on the old one was broken, and some strip caulk to make and install a new acella cloth behind the door card using some plastic sheeting. A cheap baggie behind the speaker also sealed up that hole, as I was getting some bad water intrusion and the door card got a little wet.
That fixed, however, I am still getting some water coming in and getting the driver's floor mat wet. I found it dripping off the gas door release handle this morning, which suggests the water is coming in from the firewall rather than the bulkhead seal (he says, hopefully...). Anyway, the big grommet on the firewall on the driver's side has a tear in it, so first order of business is to seal that up.
Thing is, what do I use to seal? I have gray RTV, 3M door gasket glue, and FIPG in the shop, but can get whatever makes the most sense.
Any suggestions?
