gbentink Turbo Upgrade Users Thread (2 Viewers)

[gbentink]

1HZ with Gturbo - 150kW, 520nm

Nice example of Gturbo running 20psi on intercooled 1HZ

Again its the United Fuel Injection dyno; so intertia type doesnt load engine up in low rpms - the Dyno Dynamics one does as seen in previous post and you can really see what these babies do

 

[ForealBoreal]

Holy s***!
What kw was the 1hz putting out?

 

[Dougal]

Holy ****!
What kw was the 1hz putting out?

150 according to the graph. Roughly the same as a stock 1HD-FTE.

 

[Hulsty]

So anyone want to buy my BJ74 so I can get into a 1HDT/FT 80 ?

 

[ForealBoreal]

So anyone want to buy my BJ74 so I can get into a 1HDT/FT 80 ?

Put a 1hd-t in your 74!

 

[gbentink]

150 according to the graph. Roughly the same as a stock 1HD-FTE.

Yes exactly. Huge drivetrain loss on this one as can be seen.

Also, the injector pump on this one is new and has a fuel down ramp with rpm - more than 12% reduction from 2000 to 3500rpm. This has been typical on the 1HZ's to preserve engine life due to history of unreliability. Had the pump held its fuel, it would have been around the 170kW at crank no problem at all.

This reduced fuel ramp philosophy is only now starting to change (thanks to a combination of my turbos and the turbo spec pistons now available) and we will dyno a 1HZ in 3 weeks with a goal of 150kW at the wheels with a performance setup pump in line with how we have been tuning teh TD42 Nissans. That will be on the Dyno Dynamics dyno that shows the low rpm performance very well.

This dyno is a Bosch unit, very old but expensive and rediculously accurate at calculating drivetrain loss on rundown. It doesnt unfortunately retrad the ramp up from low rpm, so doesnt measure low rpm torque well for turbo diesels. This is changing since they just spent over $10K on new software to allow this since it does actually have a retarder - the 80 1HDFT for example did 186kW at wheels on retarder held at 3000rpm, 20:1 AFR's, 30psi boost. I have a video of the AFR meter during that run actually.

 

[Dougal]

So anyone want to buy my BJ74 so I can get into a 1HDT/FT 80 ?

Don't give up yet. More fuel, compound turbo. You're not allowed to quit until the block has split.

 

[Hulsty]

Don't give up yet. More fuel, compound turbo. You're not allowed to quit until the block has split.

hahahaha tempting, need pump work before air. No more long term thinking, tourer for and I have been toying in my head with building a hilux exta cab, 1UZ (G turbo?!), auto, wide diffs, lots of barwork, I keep hitting panels on my BJ74.

Pipe dream, BJ74 will be sticking around for awhile yet, too many other cars to play with first, though I would like a 14BT/15BT pump setup!!

 

[gbentink]

hahahaha tempting, need pump work before air. No more long term thinking, tourer for and I have been toying in my head with building a hilux exta cab, 1UZ (G turbo?!), auto, wide diffs, lots of barwork, I keep hitting panels on my BJ74.

Pipe dream, BJ74 will be sticking around for awhile yet, too many other cars to play with first, though I would like a 14BT/15BT pump setup!!

lol ok. What you need is a Gturbo custom 1KD.... Email me if interested - 180kW at wheels.

I did do a turbo for a 1JZ-VVti a month ago. The guy drove around to my place and threw me the keys. Running 1.1Bar and its a manual (car is a JZX100 Chaser and immaculate). Man, that thing absolutely hammers! Will be raising boost to 1.5Bar and fitting big cooler, exhaust etc then will be crazy. So, I can do pertrol as well, but Diesels are more fun to get going hard

 

[Dougal]

lol ok. What you need is a Gturbo custom 1KD.... Email me if interested - 180kW at wheels.

How was that 1KD cruiser plan progressing Graeme?

I have a turbo bolted to my work car now. But it's been resisting every step of the way. It refused to deliver oil to the turbo supply, it required me to special order sockets to get the oil pressure switch out. None of the piping from the UK factory intercooler will fit without modification.
This isn't the real turbo either. Just the bog standard 12psi check everything is going to respond to boost okay turbo.

So I'll be leaving it in pieces for the weekend and driving the tdi skoda instead.

 

[gbentink]

How was that 1KD cruiser plan progressing Graeme?

It is in the distant horizon right now. But the 1KD is being developed separately. I'll talk online more when I have some proof, but feel free to email me. Everything (turbo development) takes longer than I want (I want it yesterday), but thats how it is. I have a few exciting projects on the go. Not the least of these is a Bad Boy Stage 2 spec in on my 100 with other upgradeds as well. I also need to pull the trans and throw in a new set of clutches (esp for 5th where I tow). Decided to invest in some local dyno work as well to put the proof on paper, so should have some "interesting" results in next 3 months to post

Sucks about the turbo.... what a long painful process.... The Tdi is a Superb?

 

[Dougal]

It is in the distant horizon right now. But the 1KD is being developed separately. I'll talk online more when I have some proof, but feel free to email me. Everything (turbo development) takes longer than I want (I want it yesterday), but thats how it is. I have a few exciting projects on the go. Not the least of these is a Bad Boy Stage 2 spec in on my 100 with other upgradeds as well. I also need to pull the trans and throw in a new set of clutches (esp for 5th where I tow). Decided to invest in some local dyno work as well to put the proof on paper, so should have some "interesting" results in next 3 months to post

Sucks about the turbo.... what a long painful process.... The Tdi is a Superb?

I look forward to hearing more.
I wanted a superb, but they couldn't deliver me a manual one. Second choice being the Octavia Scout, but it's currently in model change and they stopped building them back in march. With only DSG's in the country it wasn't possible to buy a new manual. I stumbled across a 3 year old one and jumped on it. It's 2.0 pd 8 valve tdi. Turbo is I think a GT1646V or something like that, specs are elusive. Full width front mount intercooler and ~22psi max boost according to the scangauge.
Being a little older, this one can be remapped through the OBD2 port. I'm trying not to, but I know there are 10mpg hidden in a decent map. Currently averaging 45mpg, 6.3 litres/100.

 

[ozwallaby]

Fellow on another forum in Australia just had his professionally tuned by Diesel Central. Perfect EGT's, full boost of 22-23psi at 1600rpm, holds boost throughout rev range flat as a tack.

Dynoed in 4th. It has 127hp at wheels at 1700rpm!!! Problem is clutch slippage which is why the graph is all wobbly. A new clutch is being fitted. It will be dynoed again afterwards. It has more power at 1500rpm at the wheels than a stock 1HDT puts out at ita maximum!

It also has really chunky tyres which always lowers the at wheels power figure. But, even so, its putting down the same power at wheels as a stock new VDJ200 on smooth tyres (thats the twin turbo common rail 4.5L Toyota Diesel) without computers in a lighter truck!

Back calculating torque from the power at wheels puts it around the 600nm mark (including a small amount of drivetratin loss - its around 400ftlbs without factoring any losses at all) from 1700 and up (at 1600 its almost there too.... in fact at 1500 its not far off). The torque curve shown is in ftlbs for torque at engine excluding drivetratin losses.

I should note that I've not even seen this truck - its some 4000km from where I am in Perth! The only bummer about doing these turbos is I do it because I love it - and I dont get to see too many of the trucks with them on.

See dyno below.

I presume the lower "smoother" line on the graph is the torque... when you have calculated back from the power at the wheels, your result seems to be higher than what the torque line on the graph shows... does back calculating from power give a more accurate result than what dyno says because of the type of dyno...... also were the chunky tyres the normal/standard size on this vehicle, I understand that larger diameter tyres reduce final figures.....

 

[gbentink]

I presume the lower "smoother" line on the graph is the torque... when you have calculated back from the power at the wheels, your result seems to be higher than what the torque line on the graph shows... does back calculating from power give a more accurate result than what dyno says because of the type of dyno...... also were the chunky tyres the normal/standard size on this vehicle, I understand that larger diameter tyres reduce final figures.....

Hi, this (192.8hp at wheels) dyno reports power at wheels only. The torque curve I wasn't sure if it was rpm corrected but turns out it is. It doesn't however show include drivetrain loss. The std 116kW 1HDT only measures 77kW on this dyno and torque less than 300nm. So, I calculate back for users using known losses.

The other dyno curve (big power FT and the 1HZ) has a way of doing this during the "rundown" after it revs up.

 

[wrongway around]

over 300 at the wheel 1hdt nice work and hats off to you sir,very impressive indeed.

 

[jylan]

I presume the lower "smoother" line on the graph is the torque... when you have calculated back from the power at the wheels, your result seems to be higher than what the torque line on the graph shows... does back calculating from power give a more accurate result than what dyno says because of the type of dyno...... also were the chunky tyres the normal/standard size on this vehicle, I understand that larger diameter tyres reduce final figures.....

Hey mate - I'm the owner of this car. Running 33" Maxxis Bighorns, so a couple inches bigger than standard I think.

 

[jamohamo]

With all this power being delivered by the turbo what do you need to monitor in order to make sure nothing goes bang? Is it just enough to have an EGT and boost gauge and not do anything silly like dump the clutch ever?
Also I remember one turbo coming in at 26psi at 1400rpm and just staying there all the way up to 3000rpm I think it was. Would it come in slowly or is it sudden and hard to control?
Thanks.

 

[Hulsty]

I run EGT, boost, oil pressure gauges and factory water temp gauge. Dont really look at the boost gauge, only look at the EGT gauge when i'm pushing real hard, sustained high EGT's (in my 13BT) cause the water temp to rise. I cast an eye over the oil pressure gauge, that it rises quickly and is consistent.

Once its all been properly setup I dont really need to watch the gauges, only when i'm pushing hard.

 

[58bernie]

With all this power being delivered by the turbo what do you need to monitor in order to make sure nothing goes bang? Is it just enough to have an EGT and boost gauge and not do anything silly like dump the clutch ever?

The only reason anything would go bang is that it wasn't in that great a condition to start with, same goes with the clutch and how you drive it, I had to replace my clutch after 3 months but it was the original clutch and done 280,000Km, so I installed a H/D one and have no issues since. Dropping the clutch, I do it a lot in the dirt by that is just cruel on the drive line for the black top.
I am running a Grunter 2 at present (set at 23PSI) and tow a 2 ton caravan, play offroad and it's used a town and highway vehicle as well, the only time I do more than a glancing check is tow the van and that is mostly looking at ETG, a boost gauge is little more than just a tuning tool, IMO but have one never the less.

Also I remember one turbo coming in at 26psi at 1400rpm and just staying there all the way up to 3000rpm I think it was. Would it come in slowly or is it sudden and hard to control?

That sound about right for boost and RPM.
Sudden or hard to control, I wish, but just to get a Cruiser moving takes the edge off any sports car acceleration but thing like tyre sizes have an effect as well as well as tune adjustment to the fuel pump, exhaust size, and the list can go on.

 

[jamohamo]

Graeme's turbos sound brilliant but should other mods such as 3" exhaust and an intercooler be done first?
I have an 80 series with a 1HDT engine, 35" tyres and snorkel and it accelerates like a snail. I mainly want extra power for sand driving and for towing a van up hills on road. I hate having to change down gears all the time.
What do you think the order of modifications should be? Can I get away with just bolting on a Gturbo if I watch my EGTs? I don't actually drive the old girl hard but maybe that's because I just can't!