Builds FZJ80_TX Build: 1995 FZJ80, Locked Moon Glow (1 Viewer)

[crtx]

PCV valve and grommet. Pull straight up and it should pop out. The rubber seal is likely rock hard, and will crumble into the valve cover. Be sure to have some small pliers to pull the pieces out. These are the pieces I had to fish out of mine. OEM: 12204-35040 & 90480-18001

 

[crtx]

Picking up parts from powder and ceramic coating. I dig the sun faded hood look

 

[DJCloz]

Great build thread!

 

[crtx]

Air in the ABS system… I have had a spongy brake pedal for months, even after flushing around a gallon of fluid through the system. I needed to activate the ABS, but the pedal was so soft, I could not even get ABS to activate on a gravel road. I decided to go sketch mode, and get the vehicle onto jack stands, and let the car idle, and then depress the brake… The ABS let out a strange moan, and then began to properly work. I activate ABS 3 times, then went back to standard bleeding. The amount of air and other junk this freed was amazing. I did this same process a second time, once again, some tiny bubbles, but no junk. This is not the “preferred” way, but after having a cruiser specialist quote me $300 to activate ABS through OBD2… I would go the sketchy route. (Realized I have been so part /maintenance focused, I have only posted a couple photos of the complete vehicle... so here’s another)

 

[crtx]

Finally found the male plug for the 80 aux fan, which can be found on a 91-94 4Runner radiator fan. Now to wire it up to an OEM fog light switch...

 

[flintknapper]

A big part of the rear end overhaul was bushings, boy did I underestimate the amount of effort it would take. All of the bushings looks solid, with the exception of one. Which was the upper passenger side.

Decided to stick with OEM bushings, the wits end bushing press kit was very helpful. 12T press is on the light side, and would recommend 20T if I had to do it again.

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Did you have trouble pressing the old ones out...or the new ones in (or both)? At present I have only a 12 ton press.

 

[flintknapper]

Air in the ABS system… I have had a spongy brake pedal for months, even after flushing around a gallon of fluid through the system. I needed to activate the ABS, but the pedal was so soft, I could not even get ABS to activate on a gravel road. I decided to go sketch mode, and get the vehicle onto jack stands, and let the car idle, and then depress the brake… The ABS let out a strange moan, and then began to properly work. I activate ABS 3 times, then went back to standard bleeding. The amount of air and other junk this freed was amazing. I did this same process a second time, once again, some tiny bubbles, but no junk. This is not the “preferred” way, but after having a cruiser specialist quote me $300 to activate ABS through OBD2… I would go the sketchy route. (Realized I have been so part /maintenance focused, I have only posted a couple photos of the complete vehicle... so here’s another)

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You've got it looking good. Don't worry about the Sun Faded Paint. That can be dealt with later (if at all). This is Texas, you're going to see LOT'S of vehicles with the same. I'm sure its that way also in Arizona.

 

[crtx]

Did you have trouble pressing the old ones out...or the new ones in (or both)? At present I have only a 12 ton press.

Old ones out are the challenge. I had to cut some relief cuts into the metal rings on a couple of them.

New ones going in are a breeze. 12 ton press is doable, just not "optimal" If I were to go back in time making the decision between 12 and 20 at harbor freight, I would go with the 20.

 

[crtx]

You've got it looking good. Don't worry about the Sun Faded Paint.

I am a fan of the sun faded hood. Sets it apart and gives it some character. I think these are almost old enough for collectors to call it "patina". ha

 

[crtx]

3 fresh bushings for the control arm, many more to go for the front end bushing reset. They were in great condition considering they have 24 years & 280K+ on them. What I did not realize, is the majority of the “wear” is along the outer ring, so near impossible to spot when it’s mounted underneath the vehicle. I am continuously amazed at how much work it takes to swap them. I would hate to see the labor cost for a full vehicle bushing swap. These 3 took me about 5 hours. I know they are done right though . (OEM: 2x 48702-60050, 1x 48061-60010)

New bushings for second control arm too. Cut labor time in half. These bushings were in even better condition then right side control arm, which continues the theme. Bushings on right side of vehicle seem to have more stress on them. It’s a sample of one, so who knows.

 

[crtx]

15K Fan clutch fluid swap is complete. Super simple process. Specs written down, screws witness marked.

Original clutch has viscosity between water and olive oil... pretty wimpy.

Initial impression is good, but not massive improvement. Slight improvement in coolant temps seem to be 3 degrees cooler across the board. Idling around 182-184. Highway temps 185-187 (75+MPH). The real test will be when triple digits arrive.

 

[crtx]

Finally got the right tool for job, specifically for the rear axle nuts. Could have used this 6 or so months ago. Got it off Ebay from a guy in KY, for about $35.

 

[crtx]

Transfer case cable upgrade. Slowly making my way through replacing OG cables with Teton cruiser cable kit.

 

[crtx]

Drive Shaft Lesson learned: The U joints are beasts, and require proper tools. Front Drive shaft should be balanced out of phase (regardless of what the drive shaft shop says), and rear, in phase.

I took mine to Drive Shaft King In Dallas. Old school shop, dude gave me attitude when I brought them back to him to have the job done properly. They turned out good in the end though. Would I use them again? Probably not just due to the attitude, but his work is solid. Drive shaft was smooth before, now they are incredibly smooth.

Rear drive shaft U joints: 2x 04371-60210, front is 2x 04371-60070. Front and rear use different hardware if you plan to replace. I replaced drive shaft U joints as preventative maintenance, and believe almost every 20+ year old drive shaft would benefit from fresh joints, rebalance, and run out check. Don’t forget to orientate the Zerks so you can grease them.

 

[crtx]

Old V new OEM rear U joints. They are an impressive piece of hardware. Old U joints had some slight burn marks to them (right side of old old U joint). Hopefully the new joints will go 280K miles as well.

 

[crtx]

Did some detective work trying to nail down some leaks.... hard to find the source when everything is caked. Front dif pumpkin is leaking. Went for the simple fix, and found two of the bottom nuts were slightly loose (green arrows). I imagine it will help slow the leak, but not solve it. Upper oil pan seal is leaking as well, and getting worse. After a long drive, it will drip 4+ “dots”. Torn between having a shop do it, or just keep topping off on oil... it will have to be addressed eventually.

 

[flintknapper]

Old V new OEM rear U joints. They are an impressive piece of hardware. Old U joints had some slight burn marks to them (right side of old old U joint). Hopefully the new joints will go 280K miles as well.

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^^^^

Indeed. I have 315K on my original U-Joints and they are still tight (enough).

 

[Mdej3]

Great job. I enjoy your ig post. Keep it up.

 

[davidp14]

nice work. I follow you on IG. no matter how many times I see the same truck get the same things fixed, I still get a kick out of it.
You're moving pretty fast though. keep it up.

 

[crtx]

Great job. I enjoy your ig post. Keep it up.

nice work. I follow you on IG. no matter how many times I see the same truck get the same things fixed, I still get a kick out of it.
You're moving pretty fast though. keep it up.

Thanks!