Builds FZJ80_TX Build: 1995 FZJ80, Locked Moon Glow (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 10, 2018
Threads
11
Messages
251
Location
Texas
Hey everyone, finally gave in to start a thread of my own. This forum has helped tremendously, so decided to pay a bit back.

It will mainly be an extension on my instagram page (FZJ80_TX), as thats where I have been documenting everything in detail.

I will start at the beginning, even though I took ownership of the cruiser July 2019.

Some background on my experience, this is my first cruiser to build for personal use. Im a "newbie", but have some experience in the past with the logistics of outfitting other models for military applications. (other Toyotas, not 80s).

Disclaimer, I have no idea what I am doing. I just learn as I go, break more stuff, order more parts, wait, then finally fix it.

Life of the cruiser: 4 owners, including me. Started life in Darien, CT. Then moved to Central TX in 2009 after being purchased by second owner.

I purchased it in Wimberley, TX. Here are pictures from the day I bought it:

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It was a hot mess, and the PO was over his head. He owned it for less than 3 months, and my theory is he passed it off to me, thinking it was FUBAR. 1/4" of oil coated the engine on every side. And I believe he cleared the CEL before I arrived. As soon as I drove it for 5 miles after purchase, it kicked on. Luckily for me, it was only a P0401.

Here is a glimpse at the oil leaks.

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A ritual of ours as well. To stop at Bucees after a cruiser pickin. Good looking rig. Love the color. Get the factory service manual. You can download here on Mud. Use google search to find things on Mud. Much better than Mud search feature. Welcome!
 
Cool; will love the bigger pics. About time.

:cheers:
 
Except for year models...a twin to mine (also Moonglow Pearl and TEXAS).

You'll want to get the 'damage multiplier' off the front of yours first thing.

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Started in CT? Oh boy. Not sure we want to see the upskirt pics. lol
 
Except for year models...a twin to mine (also Moonglow Pearl and TEXAS).

You'll want to get the 'damage multiplier' off the front of yours first thing.

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Already done! And damage already done! Took a deer strike to the front left, but was repaired. Now has an ARB.
 
Started in CT? Oh boy. Not sure we want to see the upskirt pics. lol

She is rock solid! Actually better than other TX trucks I have seen. Only place that has surface rust is the backside of the rear axle which has been taken care of. I wire wheeled it, rust converted, and under coated with wool wax. More info to come.
 
A ritual of ours as well. To stop at Bucees after a cruiser pickin. Good looking rig. Love the color. Get the factory service manual. You can download here on Mud. Use google search to find things on Mud. Much better than Mud search feature. Welcome!

Thanks for the compliments! Funny you say that, 2/2 of the vehicles I have purchased in the past year have been at buccees on the same day of purchase.
 
First step- stop the bleeding. It was losing oil quick out the oil pump and dissy.

Full oil leak control included front main seal, oil pump seal, and dissy o-ring. Plenty of information on here about doing those. The one thing I would mention about the oil pump seal, is "speed out" saved my but on the screws that stripped out.

Second step- cooling system overhaul. All OEM hoses, and converted back to OEM Red coolant after what seemed endless flushing with distilled water. New Koyo radiator went in, as the previous radiator was leaking. Radiator and shroud got 360 degree gap filling of frost king foam tape to seal all gaps. I used 3/4" x 3/16" x 17".

During this process, I also replaced alternator as it was drenched in oil. Photo to follow.

Here is photo of foam tape used to fill all gaps. I have not seen coolant temps get above 190 so far. The TX summer heat will be the real test...
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Photo of old V new alternator. Went with remaned denso 210-0181. Cool part number, the wire zip tie that secures the wire to the alternator, is part number: 82711-1A840.

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Fusible link- New on the left, old on the right.... you probably could guess. OEM part number 90982-08264, don’t forget the the link junction block as well: OEM 82670-60040

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Highly recommend this light set up I pieced together from harbor freight. LED light fixture, two magnets, and some fishing line. Was 1/2 the price of the car specific model they were selling, but twice as bright. Only downside is it will allow you to see what type of mess you have gotten yourself into.

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Perfect example to not use the stock brush guard. Damage multiplier is no joke. PO said that he hit a white tail one night, something the central TX deer are famous for. Ended up having to crack the side valence light to remove it... it was wedged in there real good.


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OEM everything, even down to the stickers. Super simple, and very satisfying. Do you notice anything? Classic situation of one job leading to another... door handle bezel is cracked. Will have to replace. OEM 69278-60010-03. OEM sticker: 41991-60061

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Swapped the belts. They were cracked, covered in oil, and squealed like a pig. New OEM belts, combined with all new pulleys has made for a much quieter engine bay.

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And just as a teaser as to how it sits now, here are some photos. Almost everything has been redone on it, with the exception on the engine. All new suspension, bushings, sliders, ARB. LP9s, 4x4Labs rear. Leaving the paint as is, as the sun faded hood adds some character.

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Sounds like you are on top of your cooling system, good job. IF you have any elevated temps this summer look at replacing the fluid in your fan clutch with 15K (cst) or 20K (cst) silicone. Makes a huge difference if your fan clutch is tired.

You can also add an 'Aux Fan' for your A/C condenser pretty easily...if your A/C isn't quite getting the job done at low speeds (stop and go traffic).

You've done a lot to it already....looking good!
 
Sounds like you are on top of your cooling system, good job. IF you have any elevated temps this summer look at replacing the fluid in your fan clutch with 15K (cst) or 20K (cst) silicone. Makes a huge difference if your fan clutch is tired.

You can also add an 'Aux Fan' for your A/C condenser pretty easily...if your A/C isn't quite getting the job done at low speeds (stop and go traffic).

You've done a lot to it already....looking good!

Appreciate the suggestions.

Currently, it has a new OEM plastic fan blades and the denso blue clutch fan, I did not "upgrade" the fluid in the clutch fan though.

I actually have the OEM aux fan, I still need to be instal and wire it up after finding the appropriate plug from the local junk yard. Going to wire it up as a manual switch, to an OEM switch.

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Cowl cleaning time. Before, during, and after.

Before you go looking to replace the cabin air filter, your looking at it. The 80 series do not have a traditional cabin air filter. Who knows how many years of debris are in there. Could be all 23 years.

First remove the wiper arms, in order to do this, loosen the 12mm nut, and take a brass punch and give it a couple smacks, this will loosen the taper fit. 2. Once arms removed, open hood and remove the screws on the edge inside the engine bay. 3. Lift and pull cowl towards engine direction. It’s wedged under the windshield pretty snug. 4. Clean away, you may notice the plastic mesh inserts will need replacing, as they are likely deformed and letting some debris into the cavity below. I would recommend a brush, degreaser, water, and then finish with some wax.
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