Full flat cargo plate - anyone make one? (2 Viewers)

[CharlieS]

Having worked with alot of different plywood I can say with confidence that the Birch is going to be much harder to work with. Especially a DIYer
Same with the other high end plywood like maple or altar plywood.
The veneer is really thin and chips really easy. And you sand right through it in a heart beat.

You have expertise that I lack. I'll defer to you.

 

[Broski]

You have expertise that I lack. I'll defer to you.

When you get ready to start feel free to PM me and I can share some tips with you.

 

[tone33]

Made some progress on it today. couple of notes based on replies above:

• I used 1/2" for bottom piece only, 3/4" for sides and top
• got cheapish run-of-the-mill from Lowes - $50 for 3/4 and $25 for 1/2" sheets
• drilled pilot holes and used decking screws, for the most part didnt split anything too badly on the verticals
• I'll use turnbuckles to latch it down to factory anchor points
• added L-brackets for a little extra support

Also:

• muddy tires can go on roof rack if needed, but yea, ugh, heavy
• also, I'll be covering with marine carpet, could also stain/poly it to protect from water.

 

[Outsane]

Good stuff, love seeing a good DIY project.

I did carpet on mine, probably got 3 good years out of it. I suggest you add thin aluminum angle to the top corners to keep the carpet from peeling and hold it down.

 

[Tennessee80]

Made some progress on it today. couple of notes based on replies above:

• I used 1/2" for bottom piece only, 3/4" for sides and top
• got cheapish run-of-the-mill from Lowes - $50 for 3/4 and $25 for 1/2" sheets
• drilled pilot holes and used decking screws, for the most part didnt split anything too badly on the verticals
• I'll use turnbuckles to latch it down to factory anchor points
• added L-brackets for a little extra support

Also:

• muddy tires can go on roof rack if needed, but yea, ugh, heavy
• also, I'll be covering with marine carpet, could also stain/poly it to protect from water.

View attachment 3829746
View attachment 3829748

Great progress!

 

[tone33]

Good stuff, love seeing a good DIY project.

I did carpet on mine, probably got 3 good years out of it. I suggest you add thin aluminum angle to the top corners to keep the carpet from peeling and hold it down.

great idea - thanks!

 

[tone33]

im planning to polyurethane the top to protect from any water that soaks through the top marine carpet. I also put a couple of coats of stain all around it to help w/water protection, plus it looks better.

I had to retap the tie down point holes to M8x1.25 as the M6x1.0 bolts and nuts were done - had challenges getting a couple of them out. Bigger bolts should be better anyway, as long as the old weld-nuts hold in place ok.

 

[mudgudgeon]

im planning to polyurethane the top to protect from any water that soaks through the top marine carpet. I also put a couple of coats of stain all around it to help w/water protection, plus it looks better.

I had to retap the tie down point holes to M8x1.25 as the M6x1.0 bolts and nuts were done - had challenges getting a couple of them out. Bigger bolts should be better anyway, as long as the old weld-nuts hold in place ok.
View attachment 3830594View attachment 3830595

The floor pan is not very sturdy under the factory hold down points.

I put eyebolts in those holes, and a ratchet strap securing a load with moderate tension bent the floor pan

 

[tone33]

yea i was noticing some movement as i was tapping them out. New plan, im going to bolt down to existing 3rd row seat holes - bigger bolt, i imagine rated for bigger load because they are for seats. nothing is really rusty underneath, so should be fine. Ive seen less hold more on flops in 80s, so should be plenty good enough. plus it'll keep my side storage clear of a turnbuckle.

 

[mudgudgeon]

yea i was noticing some movement as i was tapping them out. New plan, im going to bolt down to existing 3rd row seat holes - bigger bolt, i imagine rated for bigger load because they are for seats. nothing is really rusty underneath, so should be fine. Ive seen less hold more on flops in 80s, so should be plenty good enough. plus it'll keep my side storage clear of a turnbuckle.

I've used racing harness eyebolts in 3rd & 2nd row seatbelt bolt holes as tie down points.
Much sturdier, but the placement isn't awesome

 

[CharlieS]

I've used racing harness eyebolts in 3rd & 2nd row seatbelt bolt holes as tie down points.
Much sturdier, but the placement isn't awesome

You can buy (or make) anchor backing plates. I can't remember where I got them, but used them in a race car build. If you do that, you can put them virtually anywhere.

 

[CharlieS]

Like this:

Sparco Harness Installation Reinforcement Plate | 04502 | Rallysport Direct

The Reinforcement Plate will provide a solid backing plate for your eye bolt to mount to.

www.rallysportdirect.com

 

[mudgudgeon]

You can buy (or make) anchor backing plates. I can't remember where I got them, but used them in a race car build. If you do that, you can put them virtually anywhere.

Yep. Any number of racing suppliers have them for a few bucks a piece


Edit: tippy tap typed before i saw your link

 

[Fosters]