Fuel Filter Replacement - Complete

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another excellent write up in a DIY project.
i bet i can get mine done in at least 2-3 days tops...............

Thanks @fz1boxer. I don’t have much technical experience to contribute to this amazing forum, so when I am able to post something up I do hope it helps someone.

It’s really not a bad job. Just requires a bit of patience the first time. I’m glad I didn’t damage the Knock Sensors!
 
yea patience is the key but thats how it usually goes for me,things just snowball into bigger projects but thats what makes owning an LC unique,and its owners as well.
 
2 bolts and 2 washers per bolt.
A word of advice while doing this . excercise patience the rear banjo bolt is hard to line up on the filter with the hard fuel line bending it away from a horizontal (those who have done it will understand) but I would also say while our at it, pull your starter motor out and check contacts and plunger
 
I chose to swap my fuel filter as a "while your in there" item when my starter took a s***. Also did an oil change at the same time so no oil filter and no starter made for a reasonabley straight forward job.
 
This was a good resource for me. I just changed out my fuel filter today. Followed the tips here and it went better than expected. I think the hardest part for me was getting the washer between the filter and the banjo bolt before threading it back in place on the outlet side. It was a one handed maneuver since I couldn't possibly get two hands in there to do it. Using several extensions to get to the back bolt was a great idea. Taking off the front wheel to make access easier along with removing the oil filter made things much more accessible and I didn't need to remove the knock sensor.
 
This was a good resource for me. I just changed out my fuel filter today. Followed the tips here and it went better than expected. I think the hardest part for me was getting the washer between the filter and the banjo bolt before threading it back in place on the outlet side. It was a one handed maneuver since I couldn't possibly get two hands in there to do it. Using several extensions to get to the back bolt was a great idea. Taking off the front wheel to make access easier along with removing the oil filter made things much more accessible and I didn't need to remove the knock sensor.
Nice work! after I had my old one out I soaked it in water for a little bit then used a cut off wheel and sliced it open. It had a lot of gunk in it. sludge. Also appears the PO installed a Bosch fuel filter. does it make a difference? I dunno but I feel better knowing I put uncle Toyota back in there. I also swapped in tank filter at the same time which had debris on it.
 
A word of advice while doing this . exercise patience the rear banjo bolt is hard to line up on the filter with the hard fuel line bending it away from a horizontal (those who have done it will understand)

Amen! Happened to me (slightly bent the hard line). Almost NEVER got the filter to line up with it again and I don't know how many times I dropped the crush-washers off the Banjo bolt. Arrrghhhh!
 
Great write up. I did this yesterday while I had the upper intake manifold off to sort out the P401 code. One trick I found useful was to use a clothes pin (or whatever similar small clip you have available) to trap the 2nd crush washer after you have the banjo bolt inserted in the fuel line. This made connecting the front line WAY easier, but I didn't find it necessary for the rear since it was a little easier to get my big-fat-roundeye fingers in there.

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I did mine yesterday. It wasn't too bad. I chose not to go through the fenderwell. The trick for me was removing the one bolt that holds the ignition coil and lay it aside which allowed me good access under the intake to get to the banjo bolts. Then I used a 3 foot extension to get to the mounting bolts from the ground underneath the truck.
 
I just replaced my fuel filter (LX450 - 2" lift) for the first time and thought I would share my insights.
I did not remove the left front wheel, I did purchase a 24 inch - 3/8" socket extension which allowed me more precision along with 3/8" swivel adapter than adding a bunch of extensions together, well worth it in my opinion. I did remove the oil filter as some suggested but do not see the need to do so and would not if I ever decided to do this again. Removal of the fuel filter was pretty straight forward from under the truck and broke banjo bolts loose from the top beforehand as previously suggested. I pushed the fuel line down under the truck to torque the first (front) banjo bolt on the new filter and then pushed it back up through to mount the filter to the engine block, then mounted the rear banjo bolt. By far the most difficult thing for me was mounting the outside bolt to the engine block, took me about an hour. Maybe this would have been easier had I removed the drivers wheel but do not think so (?). It definitely would have been easier had I slotted the inside tab of the filter like many suggested (I would definitely do this next time), this would have allowed me to get the filter in place to screw in the outside bolt (I think). The problem I was having with screwing in the outside bolt first was trying to hold the filter up, align the hole and screw the bolt in with one hand, having to stretch my arm as far as I could from under the truck! Definitely, get extra crush washers, I only had 4 and consider myself very lucky I did not lose any, I was sure I was going to.
Good luck,
Scott
 
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Greetings. Finished up my Fuel Filter replacement today. Really wasn’t too bad. I did a lot of cleaning-up I the area while working on this. I also found a lot of half-assed work that I corrected (wiring harnesses not secured, brackets pushed around, etc.).

Thanks again for all the tips! They were all very helped.

I managed to secure the filter with both mounting bolts and without notching the bracket, although notching it is a great idea!

I found the real trick to the hardest part of this job was a long socket extension (or several) with a wobble socket running up to the inboard mounting bolt from just under the oil pan while laying on your back.

I was also able to properly torque both Union Bolts, which I was pleased about.

Some highlights (in no particular) order from the tips that worked best for me...

1) Definitely remove the oil filter! Makes a lot of space.

2) Use long extensions.

3) Watch the Knock Sensors - as several members mentioned. I didn’t mess with them, but was just real patient, slow and careful.

4) Install and torque down the front Union Bolt before mounting the filter.

5) Be sure your old copper washers are removed from the fuel lines and Union Bolts.

6) Follow the FSM and disconnect the fuel pump. Then remove the gas cap. Very little fuel will spill. I guess it may help if your tank is under a half full - mine was at a quarter.

7) Wear eye protection!

8) Have a few spare washers. They like to fall off the Union Bolts during installation and get lost!

9) Spend a few extra bucks for new Union Bolts and Mounting Bolts. It’s the fuel system after all!

10) Watch out our for the Oil Level Sensor while maneuvering the filter up into place.

11) Turning the wheel (with tire removed of course) all the way to the left gives you plenty of room in the wheel well. Definitely remove the rubber skirts on the fender.

12) I removed the battery and Battery Tray/Box. That was probably overkill, but it made access from the top a lot easier, especially when removing the old filter.

Hope this helps someone. I know you guys that rebuild engines are probably chuckling, but this was a first for me and it was fun to do. Good confidence builder for a newbie at this stuff!

Photo of the new Fuel Filter with the front Union Bolt torqued down before mounting the filter...

View attachment 1592580

Photo of the socket extension setup I used to mount the filter, accessing it from underneath near the oil pan...

View attachment 1592581

Photo of my particular Torque Wrench, which was fortunately just the right size for torquing down the rear Union Bolt...

View attachment 1592582

Success! Properly mounted and torqued OEM Fuel Filter...

View attachment 1592583

A relatively easy hour-long job that I did in four!

Good luck if you attempt it.
Late to this thread but this has been an outstanding write up, thanks!

I'm at 220,xxx miles and will probably change mine out soon. I'm bookmarking this thread.


Thanks!
 
@DirtyPepper it's not hard. I did mine mostly laying on my back with extensions. Need a little bit wobble so you go around things. I didn't take the tire off at all as i couldnt get to the driver side at all when i did it. Hardest part for me was the banjo connections and dealing with the washers. I didn't even notch the filter like many suggested as i didn't need it.

Next time i do it... Going to do it the same way as it took me maybe 2 hours and that is record time compared to some on here . There have been some people who have done it ins 25-45 mins but they are more talented than I.
 
Was kinda hoping to maybe find the actual fuel filter P/N in the thread about changing fuel filters...? :)

 

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