Thanks, all. The Land Tank tabs look like a smart upgrade. Do they weld in or bolt in? I looked, just now, but haven't gotten it on a jack yet, so I couldn't quite tell. Does the extra thickness of those tabs cause any issues with the disconnects?
They’d need to be welded on. Could also put a bolt through the middle bottom too I suppose. Got the QD pins from McMaster Carr. I’ll see if I can find the # for them. They’re 10mm. Work great on the DS but the PS hits the shock, so it has to be pulled up to remove the pin. Not a biggie if you’re already on the ground with tools in hand.
Apologies if the answer is buried somewhere in this thread, but today I broke the bracket at the end of the sway bar, on the driver's side... does this kit replace that bracket, or do I need to replace the bracket first?
We have sexy Extreme Duty Brackets coming soon.
FWIW although welding is recommended (liability) I have been running/testing our Extreme Duty Brackets for over 5 years without issue and never welded. Grade 8 1/2-20 bolts
I would recommend not using the pins noted above. Loosing one of the pins BAD things can happen fast. We have had customers loose the mechanical locking pins we use. The time saving is not worth what “could” happen.
We have sexy Extreme Duty Brackets coming soon.
FWIW although welding is recommended (liability) I have been running/testing our Extreme Duty Brackets for over 5 years without issue and never welded. Grade 8 1/2-20 bolts
I would recommend not using the pins noted above. Loosing one of the pins BAD things can happen fast. We have had customers loose the mechanical locking pins we use. The time saving is not worth what “could” happen.
Just tore mine yesterday, looks like I need these and the sway bar disconnects, I was going to take out my white line front heavy duty sway bar and replace it with a factory to prevent any future damage. But now I realize I can have the best of both worlds with your disconnect on pavement, manners and off-road flexibility.
I have Delta's sway bar spacers and I can't remember who makes the extended stainless steel braided brake lines, should I add limiting straps if I'm going to disconnect my sway bar?
I wheeled a medium to difficult trail all day yesterday with the sway bar tied up out of the way to the frame and had no issues.
Just tore mine yesterday, looks like I need these and the sway bar disconnects, I was going to take out my white line front heavy duty sway bar and replace it with a factory to prevent any future damage. But now I realize I can have the best of both worlds with your disconnect on pavement, manners and off-road flexibility.
I have Delta's sway bar spacers and I can't remember who makes the extended stainless steel braided brake lines, should I add limiting straps if I'm going to disconnect my sway bar?
I wheeled a medium to difficult trail all day yesterday with the sway bar tied up out of the way to the frame and had no issues.
Thanks for the reassurance, Im working on replacing the front swaybar mounts,
I was relieved and surprised it didn't drive home as wonky as I thought it might. I mean a little extra body. Sway but it wasn't too bad. I think the rear white line HD sway bar makes all the difference.
I really like the bolt it the middle to center up the swaybar mount and tack in place, I was trying to imagine how I was going to get a set of vice grips on there correctly to tack it in place and weld it.
That bolt in the middle is brilliant. Tighten it down weld away.
When disconnected and attached to the quick disconnect bracket, my sway bar is making contact with the driveline at full droop, with 2" spacers. Do I need bigger spacers? Everyone who makes them seems to stick to 2" so not sure why I don't have clearance.
When disconnected and attached to the quick disconnect bracket, my sway bar is making contact with the driveline at full droop, with 2" spacers. Do I need bigger spacers? Everyone who makes them seems to stick to 2" so not sure why I don't have clearance.
When disconnected and attached to the quick disconnect bracket, my sway bar is making contact with the driveline at full droop, with 2" spacers. Do I need bigger spacers? Everyone who makes them seems to stick to 2" so not sure why I don't have clearance.
Mine was able to hit the driveshaft too at close to full droop with the 60384 Dobinsons shocks. I had to add 4” sway bar spacers at the frame to clear.