- Thread starter
- #421
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Landcruiserphil@gmail.com
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Front swaybar quick disconnects revisited and tested (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
- Start date
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Landcruiserphil@gmail.com
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Sorry if this was asked and I missed it in the 21 pages…is it advisable to leave the cotter pin in for the sway bar when connected to the axle, or should we use the oem bolt/nut when connected to the axle?
Is anyone running this disconnect kit with no lift?
I have the OME Stock Height Replacement suspension, with the same OME 60018 617mm (24.3") extended length front shocks as the 2.5" lift kits. I suspect from reading this thread that I'll need to run some sway bar drop to clear my front driveshaft at full droop (since my droop is the same as with a 2.5" kit)?
I fully expect Phil to respond and say I should disconnect the swaybar and cycle the suspension to test it, but I can't do that from my desk at work
-Bucket
I have the OME Stock Height Replacement suspension, with the same OME 60018 617mm (24.3") extended length front shocks as the 2.5" lift kits. I suspect from reading this thread that I'll need to run some sway bar drop to clear my front driveshaft at full droop (since my droop is the same as with a 2.5" kit)?
I fully expect Phil to respond and say I should disconnect the swaybar and cycle the suspension to test it, but I can't do that from my desk at work
-Bucket
- Thread starter
- #424
Is anyone running this disconnect kit with no lift?
I have the OME Stock Height Replacement suspension, with the same OME 60018 617mm (24.3") extended length front shocks as the 2.5" lift kits. I suspect from reading this thread that I'll need to run some sway bar drop to clear my front driveshaft at full droop (since my droop is the same as with a 2.5" kit)?
I fully expect Phil to respond and say I should disconnect the swaybar and cycle the suspension to test it, but I can't do that from my desk at work
-Bucket
When you are not at your desk measure from the underside of the flare to the center of the wheel and post the reading.
Front center of hub to bottom of flare (both sides): 20 1/2”
Rear center of hub to bottom of flare (both sides): 21”
Clearance between the front driveshaft and sway bar is ample at ride height, I haven’t jacked up the truck to check at full double droop.
Rear center of hub to bottom of flare (both sides): 21”
Clearance between the front driveshaft and sway bar is ample at ride height, I haven’t jacked up the truck to check at full double droop.
NorCalFJ100
SILVER Star
Does anyone know on this thread if these sway bar disconnects would help with some minor rubbing from some new 35x12.5 KM3's? I am running an OME 2.5. I am getting some rubbing on trails primarily. Thanks!!
Nope, disconnects will likely make the rubbing worse. Trim your fenders where it rubs and/or extend your bump stops. Get the disconnects too for easy flexing on the trail.
Swbkrn2003
GOLD Star
Just ordered my kit. Will make sure to read the instructions. Read all 22 pages of this thread. Holy shi_ ! Phil thanks for all you do! Got your heavy duty rear sway bar links, extended shifter, Aux fan and now front swaybar disconnects. Between you and @witsend my dogs have had to skip a few meals 
! Awesome products! Long live the Cruiser addiction
! Awesome products! Long live the Cruiser addiction
CrabCake
SILVER Star
Got my jack adapter first, then shifter extension, then front sway bar disconnect, then finished up with rear sway drop...thanks for all of the great products @LandCruiserPhil ! Super excited to get on the trail soon to test everything out!Just ordered my kit. Will make sure to read the instructions. Read all 22 pages of this thread. Holy shi_ ! Phil thanks for all you do! Got your heavy duty rear sway bar links, extended shifter, Aux fan and now front swaybar disconnects. Between you and @witsend my dogs have had to skip a few meals
The front sway install got me thinking that my front sway bushings were getting a little beat, then I installed the rear sway kit that came with new OEM bushings which confirmed that my rubber was done! They weren't cracked, but shrunken and hard...now that has led me down the path to a box on my porch as we speak delivered last night for all of the bushings for the rear of mine plus front sway rubber (front bushings are fresh on mine with DVS radius arms). I'm chasing down a clunk when accelerating from a dead stop and when I come to a full stop, hoping these will do the trick.
I know this is a thread for the front, but I don't have a pic of mine installed, but very easy in my opinion. Here's a love shot of the rear kit though which is a beast! Again, very easy to install. My 94 had the side brackets for the sways, so I just had to open up the existing holes in the bottom of the frame with a step bit and do the nut-serts.
@LandCruiserPhil Does the center/bolt on the bottom of the end link need to be even with the lower link for proper rear bar geometry?
- Thread starter
- #431
That is my choice ...I want the lower control arm to protect the swaybar
True, but I was wondering what the "stock position" looks like in relation to the lower link.
- Thread starter
- #433
Stock it would be horizontal on an unlifted 80
Has anyone had any issues with cycling/clearance at full droop with an OME 2" lift and sway bar drops? Just being preemptive before I lift the truck up and take a look.
