sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Rick, true, but your skillset and the average person on this list is not the same. We suggested to John to add packers since this is the easiest way for him to change the front pinion angle. It is really difficult to compare lift measurements since we do not all start at the same place. If these were all brand new trucks, then yes, one can say that xx measurement rom hub center to flare is yy over stock. But we can not since suspensions sag over time.
Also, the lip is not totally square, some people do not get it dead center of the hub, some people do not have the tape totally vertical etc etc. Unless a strict guideline is set and everyone follows it, I always felt that measurements are probably one accurate to +- 1/2" anyway.
I know you went to great lengths to get your truck dialed in to spec and 100% right, and I wish that was in the capabilities of most people, but in reality it is not. We on the other hand have tons of experience with different setups and I know that in John's case the setup can be dialed in to be vibration free. And yes, this is probably only going to happen when things are 100% correct.
Driving with either shaft removed, and/or using chassis ears is the best way to locate the noise/vibration. However removing a drivehaft also changes the dynamics of the loads on the rotating parts. So in a lot of cases, it means you have to get the front and the rear dialed in at the same time.
I have not personally found that when you have a front shaft that vibrates, that adjusting the rear fixes it. Pretty much you need to get either vibration free individually, to ensure a vibration free ride.
Also, the lip is not totally square, some people do not get it dead center of the hub, some people do not have the tape totally vertical etc etc. Unless a strict guideline is set and everyone follows it, I always felt that measurements are probably one accurate to +- 1/2" anyway.
I know you went to great lengths to get your truck dialed in to spec and 100% right, and I wish that was in the capabilities of most people, but in reality it is not. We on the other hand have tons of experience with different setups and I know that in John's case the setup can be dialed in to be vibration free. And yes, this is probably only going to happen when things are 100% correct.
Driving with either shaft removed, and/or using chassis ears is the best way to locate the noise/vibration. However removing a drivehaft also changes the dynamics of the loads on the rotating parts. So in a lot of cases, it means you have to get the front and the rear dialed in at the same time.
I have not personally found that when you have a front shaft that vibrates, that adjusting the rear fixes it. Pretty much you need to get either vibration free individually, to ensure a vibration free ride.