Front axle - Rust as a lubricant?? (1 Viewer)

[2fpower]

So, the title of this thread comes from a fellow mudder, that made that comment after I posted up a picture that i took as I tore down the front axle in a Walmart parking lot near St. Louis, stranded during my drive home to KC, after buying it in Chicago. Here is a link to that discussion... https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/580034-real-time-broke-down-illinois-pittsfield.html


Story is much like we hear from time to time. The prior owner had a friend of a friend to a front knuckle rebuild. So, here are pics of my Walmart episode, and of the damage....

In the last picture, you can see how someone forced the rear hub seal (to the spindle). This could not of been overlooked, so it told me volumes about their work quality...

 

[2fpower]

Update

So, now fast forward some, I had the axle out, sandblasted and painted, and went to tear down and see what needs replaced.

What I found was in the drivers side absolutely no oil or grease in the knuckle. Never seen this before. Rust everwhere.

On the passenger side there was less than one cup of grease in the knuckle. Funny, but I was actually happy about seeing some grease.

 

[2fpower]

drivers

Back up a little, I forgot that the drivers side hub was stuck on the spindle. I finally had to use a puller and pull it off. Here is picks of the spindle. I have a call into Dan to get a new one, as I don't see how this could be salvaged.

The outer bearing was in pieces, and fused to the spindle.

 

[2fpower]

common

Keeping with a common theme, here is the axle seal inside the passenger side. Sloppy work.

 

[2fpower]

front knuckle

So here is the axle housing, first before I ground off the surface rust and then after. Lots of pitting.


Lots of pitting, and that is one of my questions.... Should I try to grind off some metal on the outside of the axle housing where the felt seal keeps the grease in the knuckle?

 

[2fpower]

parts soaking

So, one of my biggest complaints on the harbor freight parts washer is getting the solvent out. I don't need to use one very often, so I like to clean it out. Anyway, I took out the plug and welded on some 1/2 pipe with a bend so it should go straight to a bucket.

I tried a 90 degree before, but when it plugged up you could not get it cleared out very easy. Will see what this does.

Oh, and yes, I use old sledge and buckets as "ballast", as I did not have enough solvent.

 

[2fpower]

So, the question on the table is what to do with the rust pitting?? sandblast and fill with bondo, epoxy paint? Grind down some more. Fotget about it?

Also, what else should I inspect for damage?

Oh, I about forgot. Having real problem getting the birf off the driveshaft on the short side. Got a nice steel pipe and been dropping the birf in it and it will not seperate. Any tricks??

 

[Cruiserdrew]

So, the question on the table is what to do with the rust pitting?? sandblast and fill with bondo, epoxy paint? Grind down some more. Fotget about it?

Also, what else should I inspect for damage?

Oh, I about forgot. Having real problem getting the birf off the driveshaft on the short side. Got a nice steel pipe and been dropping the birf in it and it will not seperate. Any tricks??

I would probably just run it as is and check it frequently. It's not like the knuckle is well sealed anyway.

This looks like a good save. Too bad about the botched front end job. Those rust pics of the knuckle are pretty cool. Glad it isn't mine.

 

[jeffro109]

try dropping the pipe with the birf/axle already in the pipe, with a swift downward strike of a few feet off the ground. Maybe on a piece of wood if you want to save the shaft.

might be a good time to put in a new diff seal too

 

[Tools R Us]

...
What I found was in the drivers side absolutely no oil or grease in the knuckle. Never seen this before. Rust everwhere.

On the passenger side there was less than one cup of grease in the knuckle. Funny, but I was actually happy about seeing some grease.

In my observation, far too common. Lots of owners believe that the knuckle grease level doesn't need to be checked, maintained.

 

[Tools R Us]

So, the question on the table is what to do with the rust pitting?? sandblast and fill with bondo, epoxy paint? Grind down some more. Fotget about it?

I would fill them, epoxy (JB Weld?), then paint. Would not grind them down more.

Also, what else should I inspect for damage?

Oh, I about forgot. Having real problem getting the birf off the driveshaft on the short side. Got a nice steel pipe and been dropping the birf in it and it will not seperate. Any tricks??

More shock, drop it harder, on a hard surface, metal, concrete. To prevent damage to the axle, stuff rags into the other end of the pipe.

 

[KLF]

So, the question on the table is what to do with the rust pitting?? sandblast and fill with bondo, epoxy paint? Grind down some more. Fotget about it?

Get it as clean as you can, then use JB Weld as a filler to smooth off the ball. Let it dry for several days if you can, then sand it smooth with emery paper. I did that on my front axle 10 year ago and it is still smooth.

 

[ToddD]

Get it as clean as you can, then use JB Weld as a filler to smooth off the ball. Let it dry for several days if you can, then sand it smooth with emery paper. I did that on my front axle 10 year ago and it is still smooth.

I have done this many times with no issues at all. Works great.

 

[Kernal]

Another option would be to sand it down some more, use Rust-Mort to kill remaining rust in the pits, light coat of primer to fill any shallow pits, sand smooth, then paint. Painted mine two years ago, some paint has come off where the seals ride most of the time (wheels straight), but no rust. The FSM method for separating the birfs from the axle shafts works well if you have a large vice, large brass drift, and BFH.

 

[2fpower]

try dropping the pipe with the birf/axle already in the pipe, with a swift downward strike of a few feet off the ground. Maybe on a piece of wood if you want to save the shaft.

might be a good time to put in a new diff seal too

That is how I have been trying to do it. Have a rag stuffed in the opposite side of the pipe to slow that impact; hoping to hear it drop off. Looks like it is time to use the drift. Also, ordered a diff seal from Dan today ( we are thinking alike)

I have done this many times with no issues at all. Works great.

Another option would be to sand it down some more, use Rust-Mort to kill remaining rust in the pits, light coat of primer to fill any shallow pits, sand smooth, then paint. Painted mine two years ago, some paint has come off where the seals ride most of the time (wheels straight), but no rust. The FSM method for separating the birfs from the axle shafts works well if you have a large vice, large brass drift, and BFH.

Great idea on the epoxy. Thanks for the advice. I will likely sandblast the area to get rid of all the rust in the holes (and rough it up a little bit) and then add the epoxy the holes. Wait for it to dry, sand then epoxy prime and cover with john deere blitz black. Super, I have a plan.

 

[scrowley]

That is a mess you had there for sure. I have never seen one that bad before. I would say after you fix it.....sell the truck. If this was that unmaintained who knows what else was neglected. Just IMO.

 

[cc93cruiser]

That is a mess you had there for sure. I have never seen one that bad before. I would say after you fix it.....sell the truck. If this was that unmaintained who knows what else was neglected. Just IMO.

X2....

 

[2fpower]

Well, I would agree about selling it, but the fact is that not much of this rig is going to be there when I am done. The PO was honest that the front axle needed work, and he only owned it for 10k of the 125k on the clock.

BIG PLANS. BIG PLANS. Trying to determine where I start the build thread for this project, here in the 80 section, the 45 section or hardcore. (hint)

 

[2fpower]

tore down the passenger side birf and found some damage inside the birf..... what do you all think? Just replace the star shaped part???

Ball bearings seem to be round without damage, just have some surface rust.

 

[2fpower]

Here is picks of the birf

Slight imperfection inside the ball bearing area in normal wear area. I planned on swapping sides, so that does not bother me too much.

There was a tiny bit of damage on one area.

The bigger question is on the other side.