Front axle - Rust as a lubricant?? (3 Viewers)

[2fpower]

cannot do it

So, I beat the other side birf, dropping it in the right size pipe 50 times with no effect.

So, I took advice of other MUD posts here, and used the FSM method with a vise. Beat on it first with a 4 lb sledge, then moved up to a 10lb sledge ( on a brass drift) it will move about a 1/16 inch. nothing else.

Anyone know another trick?

I can tell there is some damage inside there, as it does not move freely, so the other question is does anyone have a set of birfs for sale????

Final pic you can see some of the damage inside the other birf.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

With that much wear and damage, you need new birfields. The ones you have are damaged and not worth putting back in the truck. They may be useful as a trail spare, but even that is questionable. If the inner axles are rusted and damaged as well, then they need to be replaced.

You might look around for some used ones, but the ones you have are goners.

 

[Riley]

With that much wear and damage, you need new birfields. The ones you have are damaged and not worth putting back in the truck. They may be useful as a trail spare, but even that is questionable. If the inner axles are rusted and damaged as well, then they need to be replaced.

You might look around for some used ones, but the ones you have are goners.

Agreed. I replaced one of my birfs as it was clicking badly after a locked mishap on the trail, it looked about 10x better than those.
There ought to be a law about mistreating a cruiser like that, jail time is in order.

 

[IdahoDoug]

The trouble with using a mix of old an new parts in a birf is that the old parts had worn together and as new binding opportunities arose from wear, the binding spot got worn from multiple cycles. Toss a new set of balls in there, turn left out of your drive and one may instantly bind and crack the birf. So, don't bother trying to replace an individual part. Agree with others - those are toast. Be sure when you are looking for parts that you know there was a change in the spindle, a change in the outer axle length and a change in the drive plate at some point in 80 production.

DougM

 

[mike1998]

Agree with above, unfortunately those birfs look like toast. Concerning the pitting on those housings - go to a good welding supply shop (the kind that your local ironworks shop buys from) and checkout Walter Flexcut Coolcut xx (or something similar) sanding discs for your angle grinder. They will have something that will polish out those pits without damaging your housing. Then hand sand to finish if need be.

 

[2fpower]

Thanks for the advice. Sounds like I need some new birfs.

Is this a toyota new thing, used OEM parts, or longfield, or somewhere else?

 

[Offroads4x4]

. New Toyota ones are pricier than most want to spend.

You can go with new Longfeilds or check the classifieds here for used ones.

 

[fj4068]

Thanks for the advice. Sounds like I need some new birfs.

Is this a toyota new thing, used OEM parts, or longfield, or somewhere else?

Are you going part-time or keeping AWD?

If PT, I would use Longfields because they are lower price and stronger but softer/faster wearing.
If AWD, I would use Toyota because they are fairly strong and hard enough to last hundreds of thousands of miles assuming good maintenance.

 

[Jacket]

Damn - glad this truck didn't end up in the hands of a newbie. That's as bad as I've ever seen it....

You indicated that this was going to become a hard core trail truck? If so, seems like Longfields would be the way to go.

 

[2fpower]

Keeping AWD, and going hardcore on the rebuild project, but likely keep it on lighter to mid trails.

Looking at used Toyota parts now. Although another poster forwarded this to me. Anyone have an opinion on them? I don't like the words "don't use with big tires"

AAA Landcruiser CV Joint Birfield Joint 1991-1997 High Quality [43405-60080-CPHQ] - $109.50 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts

 

[Kernal]

Cruiserparts says those CV joints are made by Joint Fuji (Japan), which they said is the same company that makes the original CV joints for Toyota?? IDK.

 

[wxm]

Cruiserparts says those CV joints are made by Joint Fuji (Japan), which they said is the same company that makes the original CV joints for Toyota?? IDK.

Sounds interesting...

 

[Kernal]

I sent an email to Joint Fuji but there is a communication gap so haven't been able to determine much. They say they manufacture (? or sell) both "OEM quality and aftermarket quality".

 

[2fpower]

Recieved the birfs from cruiserparts yesterday!!! crazy fast shipping by them. If they keep that up, it will ruin their reputation!!

I will post pics up. There is some heat discoloration on them where the ball bearings are by the spider gear, but otherwise look fine. I will check diminsions and post them up if anyone has a OEM sitting around.

k

 

[Kernal]

The bluish marks are due to the heat treatment done to harden the wear surfaces AFAIK.

 

[wxm]

The bluish marks are due to the heat treatment done to harden the wear surfaces AFAIK.

What Kernal said, the OEM has those marks too.

 

[2fpower]

pics

Well here are the new birfs. Need to measure them still, but here is a peek.

 

[2fpower]

more

Thought I might catch up to date.

I covered up the rest of the axle, and sandblasted the outer surfaces to get rid of all the rust. I use old sand and two or three time run black coal slag, so really pretty soft stuff. Blew them off and mixed up some jbweld. Put a nice coat on and let is set for 10 days.

 

[2fpower]

while it was drying

While it was drying figured it was time to recover my shaft from the old birf. Cut off the top of the birf with 5" thin cut disks, then still could not get it off. So, I cut the remainder in half "the outer skin of the birf", then the cage.

 

[2fpower]

fun continues

Finally got down the last part, and used a puller to get it off.


DONE