We should include a spatula to the list of tools.... a cheap one will run you a few bucks at the grocery store/hardware store, and is much much better than grease all up in your action. Bang for the buck it is really worth it.
Also very handy to me was an extra 3/8 "thumbwheel" w/ 14mm socket. The spindle bolts are long and the hub body is in the way for just spinning a ratchet handle around in circles.
Next time around, I plan to use a cordless screwdriver or an air ratchet to spin them. Sounds petty, but there are what, 8? of them bastidges and you've got a lot of layers that have to stay in the right place.
Also on that note: I love the idea of the studs that someone made to hold the spindle sandwich together, but I didn't have an extra bolt so I just use a round file that was about 1/4" diameter and 6" long, and also a a center punch. They stick into the holes and help align everything, but try to find something at least 6" long or you run the risk of pushing it into the knuckle. I didn't manage that particular
but I did get close.
I forgot to mention a weird issue I had: after I totally fudged the short vs. long axle (I'm an idiot) I spent hours trying to get the DS installed. Finally loosened the top trunion retainer bolts and the dang birf slid in like a greased fish. Not sure why that would matter... but it sure did. So if you can't seat the birf, you might consider easing up on the trunion retainers for a sec. It worked for me.
Other good tools: a cloth rag to wipe off your hands once in a while when they aren't too filthy. Else you'll kill an extra roll of paper towels.
A putty knife is nice to scrape gaskets off (and I'll bet 90% of mudders already own a putty knife).
A 5/16 or 3/8 socket can work instead of a E12 torx to get the knuckle studs on. 9mm is pretty close 8mm didn't fit for me. Using a 6pt socket will probably damage the torx splines a little, but might be worth it (it worked for me).
I didn't use a grease gun, but I'll bet that if you had one with a needle-attachment, it could really help with the greasing.
*note on bearings: I was happy to have packed all my bearings in the comfort of my kitchen table with a cocktail, whilst chatting with friends. I put them all in ziploc bags to be used later.
This is a MUCH better way to do it than trying to pack 'em when you are mid-project with god-knows-what on your hands. It won't really *save* you time, but it will streamline your project and you can prep ahead of time. Good.
Throwing the inner oil seal in the freezer for a day or two made it a tad easier to install. Still difficult, but not as bad.
Those little bastidges are a tight fit. I used a block of wood and a 3lb maul to get it mostly seated, then I used the race from the old trunion bearings, and a ball-peen to seat it further. Not ideal, but it did work.
I would have happily paid $20 for a harbor freight seal installer doohickey. I did use a big ol socket (43mm?) left over from the 60's crank nut days. It worked ok. But a seal installer would be soooo much nicer. If you would spend the money at a bar, spend it on the seal installer. Please.
I used the screwdriver-taco method to pull the oil seal. For me, it sucked sweaty donkey balls.
I used the pipe-wrench method to pull the 2nd seal. It was absurdly easy. If I heard someone recommend the screwdriver-taco method, I think I'd have to stab him in the jaw. Using the screwdriver scored my housing, took too long, was difficult and grease flew out into my eye. It was awful.
If you have a kragen/schucks/napa/autozone/PEP within 30 minutes of your home, you should really just pony up and buy a seal puller. But the pipe wrench as seal puller is surprisingly effective.
Be sure to have enough #6 around. This can be a frustrating job
But if you are savvy enough (and have another DD) you can stretch it out and make it almost pleasant, especially if you have
on a frequent enough basis.
BTW: I put the new studs in @ 45 ft-lbs. I'll report back if they come loose.
Finally: Romer, thanks soooo much for this FAQ. I checked it often and it helped me immensely. This is a big job and totally within the ability of nearly anyone. But damn messy.
1/2 after attempting this. My 97 fzj80 had 110,000 miles with only the rotors and pad ever replaced as far as I could tell. I was fearing the worst when pulling it apart doubting the knuckle had ever seen any additional grease. When I pulled it open lots of grease and some soup. Here are some tips that helped me, most are probably problems created by an impact install and serviced without a torque wrench:
I am in the middle of putting everything back together, so maybe I am not the best editor at this point...
Slee sold me a seal installer for $13 or so... That combination made it easy to put the inner axle seals.
