Knuckle Arm Studs (1 Viewer)

[TomH]

Well, looks like I joined the broken/missing knuckle arm stud club. Hopped in the LC after work to take the wife to the doctor and immediately noticed a lack of steering. Went about three blocks to a parking lot and had a look. One stud missing, one stud broken and two hanging by less than a full turn. I actually found the broken stud in the driveway.

The scary part was the wife has been driving the truck this way. From talking to her, I think it may have broken loose last night when she was just a few blocks from home. Then she drove it today to take the boy to school, go to the park, and then pick the boy up - probably about 15 miles total. We had a little talk about what to do if she notices anything out of the ordinary when driving.

I tore it all down tonight and got everything cleaned up and ready to go. The lower knuckle bearing was shot and of course the studs but everything else looked OK. I plan to replace all four studs, washers, cones, nuts and both the knuckle bearings.

I did the repack on the birfs in August 2004 which was about 20,000 miles ago. Everytime I see one of these threads about the studs breaking, I go inspect mine to make sure they are still tight. I specifically remember re-torquing them this past summer. Based on the problems with these studs, I recommend replacing the original studs when you do a birf job and then at least do a visual on them every month or so. Re-torquing on a regular basis is probably a good idea. One question - should the tire be off the ground if you are going to re-torque?

Tom

 

[GXO]

wowza!

I would raise it up to retorque.

Also, use some locktite when you put those together, I did, no way am I letting this happen.

Heck, I had some studs missing when I got my rig from the PO!

 

[Scamper]

Hope that top pic is not of your knuckle after only 20K...serious soup going on there.

 

[cruiserdan]

Hope that top pic is not of your knuckle after only 20K...serious soup going on there.

Most likely caused by the loose steering arm. That side will need to be completelty re-done.

 

[TomH]

Hope that top pic is not of your knuckle after only 20K...serious soup going on there.

With the bolts in the condition they are in, there is a little extra movement in the axle shaft, which took out the axle seal and of course made birf soup. For the most part, it was just grease in the knuckle. Only a little oil made it in.

 

[GXO]

Most likely caused by the loose steering arm. That side will need to be completelty re-done.

Uggh, I agree. looks like someone else will be joining me in feeding Dan's dogs today

 

[TomH]

Uggh, I agree. looks like someone else will be joining me in feeding Dan's dogs today

While I would prefer to feed Dan's dogs, I really need to get this done today. I talked to one local dealer and he said he had the inner and out knuckle kits. He said $276 for the inner kit and I can't imagine what is in the kit for that price. I'll stop by and see him after I drop my son at school and see what he has to offer. Of course if he doesn't have studs - well, no deal.

 

[cruiserdan]

The "kit", 04434-60051, costs more than the individual parts in it.

Studs, 90126-12005
Nuts, 94115-71200
Flat washers, 90201-12019
Cones, 42323-60020

Wiper, 43204-60031
Inner seal, 90310-35010
Trunion bearings, 90366-20003
Spindle gaskets, 43435-60020, 43436-60011
Spindle dust seal, 90313-93003
Drive flange gasket, 43422-60060
Outer snap ring, 90520-31007
Wheel bearing seal, 90311-62001
Lock tab washer, 90215-42025

 

[snowwolf]

Geeeez!!!!! you were lucky, I had exactly the same fault, I fitted the new type studs with the torx top to them and I also used liquid metal to lock them in place, I was not taking anymore chances.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

While I would prefer to feed Dan's dogs, I really need to get this done today. I talked to one local dealer and he said he had the inner and out knuckle kits. He said $276 for the inner kit and I can't imagine what is in the kit for that price. I'll stop by and see him after I drop my son at school and see what he has to offer. Of course if he doesn't have studs - well, no deal.

You still want to call Cruiserdan. He can get stuff to your door in 24 hours. He has done that for me several times. Your local dealer will still likely have to order it, over charge you, and then supply the wrong parts.

I got a full 80 knuckle rebuild "kit" from Dan last year and it was in the $200 ballpark, and he did send it overnight. There was literally less than 24 hours from the time I called, until I was back on the road. You can do the tear down today, and the refit tomorrow when the parts come.

edit-The new knuckle studs are especially nice, and the torx on top makes them easy to get tight in the knuckle. I am in the camp that does not locktite the studs, so that if I ever have to get it out, I can.

 

[TomH]

Well, I got it all wrapped up. I found all the parts at a dealer in Tacoma - about 40 miles south from me. Same dealer I bought my Tacoma from. They had everything except the nuts for the knuckle studs and the clip that holds the axle shaft to the birfield (said the closest place for the clips was some place in New Mexico ). I reused the three nuts I had and purchased a fourth from the local fastener store. I'll probably swap them all out soon. The birf/axle shaft I just cleaned without disassembly. I also used a little Locktite on the new studs just for good measures.

The parts guy was great. He was short all the gaskets associated with the spindle so he opened up the kit he had and borrowed the gaskets from there. He gave me a real good price on everything too (always at least ask if they offer any discounts - usually they'll give 10% just for asking). As I was talking with him, I found out he is Landpimps part guy. I can see why Pimp is happy with the service he is getting locally.

While I was standing there, I was talking with another one of the parts guys. He said they just sold a set of studs last week and was surprised to see another set going out. Then, not five minutes later, he got a call from someone looking for a set.

During reassembly, I notice a little more damage. Apparently the birf was moving around enough to grind a little of the axle housing right next to the upper trunion bearing. The bearing race seated fine and there wasn't much chance of me replacing the axle so I just went with it. Don't really think it will cause any problems.

Everything else went really smooth. The birf job really is quite easy.

Has anyone ever replace their existing studs on the knuckle arm without disassembling everything? I am seriously considering replacing the four studs on the other side but I'm a little hesitant to try to pull them without taking everything apart.

And a special thanks to CDan for providing all the part numbers. It certainly helped.

Sorry about the picture quality - I'm not a very good photographer.

Tom

 

[turbocruiser]

WOW, that upper trunion bearing area looks like hell! Are ya sure the race will hold?

 

[TomH]

No - I'm not sure but I think it is OK. The old race was still in solid when I beat it out and to new one went in nice and tight so.... I think the picture actually makes it look worse than it really is.

 

[GXO]

Looks okay to me, little material missing

Replacing the lower studs in place is a hard job because the upper trunion bolts hold the knuckle housing in place and the arm is HARD to get over the studs without loosening the top....which means that the rotor, etc has to come off so you can get in there, etc.

 

[cruiserdan]

Replace the nut as soon as you are able to. The OEM ones are hardened.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Can't you just use a stud puller to remove the studs one at a time (leaving the other 3 tight), and inserting a new type stud? With the nut off the bottom, you have enough stud to grip.

DougM

 

[TomH]

That is what I was thinking - just didn't know if it had been done before with success. If I were to try this, I would certainly be prepared for a complete teardown in case something went wrong.

Tom

 

[Beowulf]

I did the repack on the birfs in August 2004 which was about 20,000 miles ago. Everytime I see one of these threads about the studs breaking, I go inspect mine to make sure they are still tight. I specifically remember re-torquing them this past summer.

We have seen these studs back out several times. I'm wondering if the "occasional re-torque" is part of our problem? (I've checked mine but not applied any additional torque.)

-B-

 

[turbocruiser]

We have seen these studs back out several times. I'm wondering if the "occasional re-torque" is part of our problem? (I've checked mine but not applied any additional torque.)

-B-

IMHO, this is why we should all start using locktite on the stud threads - no need to retorque and also almost no chance of backing out bit by bit. Also, IMHO, the best time to torque these is with the knuckle off of the vehicle, no arms connected, no parts to prevent the proper torque, etc. I think that I used 35 lbs torque to the knuckle and then the recommended torque for the nuts. I used the locktite that is heat deactivated and I've always got a good torch, vise grips, sharp and strong and small point cold chisel with me on all our trails; this way even if something snaps I can release the locktite and either back it out with the vise grips or back it out with the cold chisel. HTH.

 

[Scamper]

I agree with you and plan to locktite my studs in next time I service the axle. But TomH won't have much of a choice this time but to retorque, unless he decides to do a full knuckle service. If he pulls one of those studs out, that birf soup will start oozing out that hole, and I don't think loctite will work very well with all that muck.