Romer said:Keep the comments coming.
I didn't notice any pictures of daughterofromer in that writeup. So, even though it was very well done, it's not complete!
CJ, running for cover......................
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Romer said:Keep the comments coming.
1000-oaks said:If new trunion bearings are installed, don't we need to re-center the knuckle on the axle housing? I know there's a special service tool to do this, but I'm not sure how it works.
clownmidget said:Ken - great write up and you are to be commended for your organizational skillz
My only comments would be to have a brass hammer and the set of three brass drifts commonly available from Sears or Napa or most decent hardware/automotive stores, even HarborFreight. Some of the pics show harder metal "tools" being used and IMO not a good idea since the brass stuff is cheap and won't cause damage.
The other addendum I'd add is from Norm's web write up I used many moons ago when that was the only one on the web. It makes doing the rebuild solo much easier and I've used these buggers dozens of time. I don't have a pic but this would be during the rebuild pics in post #19. Place the headless bolts in the knuckle housing at 10 and 2 o'clock and re-assembly is SO much easier. The bottom bolt is threaded into the end of the axle stub to pull it out for the snap ring.
clownmidget said:Ken, yeah, I figured if I actually took the time and read the entire thread it was all in there. Just like all the photos are somewhere between here and Morgan's or Norm's rebuild links in the Tech section.
This is the shot from Norm's rebuild and I'm fairly certain these are 10-mm x 1.25 pitch but I'll check. I made them using a dremel to cut the heads off and make the screwdrive slot.
edit: checked and they are 10-mm x 1.25 pitch and the length is 40-mm
1000-oaks said:If new trunion bearings are installed, don't we need to re-center the knuckle on the axle housing? I know there's a special service tool to do this, but I'm not sure how it works.
topend yobbo said:you blokes obviously don't listen to anyone until they have over a thousand posts on board.I wrote about the studs 4 posts in and nobody responded.You couldn't have missed it.Must be that don't listen to Aussie know how rubbish coming out.A reply when a good idea comes up dosent hurt Romer.
Beowulf said:Ken,
I believe the torque spec in your post #25 should be inch/lbs.
Add alloy & steel wheel torque specs and any others that are missing. I will agree with the others that we should try to get pics showing the common DIY tools like the brass drifts.
Nice job!
-B-
Romer said:Tighten again and make sure there is no play.
Beowulf said:I think the FSM gives an inch/lb spec here (It was post #24, not #25)
-B-