orangefj45
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No they can not. Different tooth count. Plus 87 and up use a larger input besting then the previous generation.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
Fresh Start For A Tired 60 - 1HZ Conversion
- Thread starter The Machinist
- Start date
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Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
- Thread starter
- #42
I prefer it without a swaybar. When I used to have one, I would always lose the drop links, or I'd forget to take it off at a trailhead and end up without any suspension flex (or they would snap). Besides, half the fun of driving this thing is feeling like its about to roll over in every corner!
If I ever end up putting one on in the future, I'd probably use something like the antirock ones that mount up on the frame.
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I only took mine off on Poughkeepsie to not break the frame bolts.
I just really like how it drives on road. But I’m a step away from being a mall crawler.
- Thread starter
- #44
Recently went through the front axle and steering and refreshed and replaced a few things. I got a good deal on a new-in-box MarlinCrawler hi-steer kit, so that went on. Replaced the knuckle and wheel bearings, added a backing plate eliminator, added new stainless braided axle-to-caliper brake lines, cleaned and painted the rusty V6 4Runner calipers I put on last year that I mistakenly thought were zinc plated, and cleaned and rebuilt the hubs. I also swapped the brake master for one out of an 80 series, which feels much better with the 4Runner booster.
@mattressking also egged me on to finally install the 4+ U-bolt flip kit I've had collecting dust for the last 8 years....
Had some time to kill on Sunday afternoon so I decided to head to work and make some adapters for the ridiculously oversized bumpstops I ordered a few months ago. I'm honestly surprised they fit, but they worked out pretty good to keep the new steering arms from hitting things. The spacers should probably get trimmed down to match the frame width someday... but 2x4 aluminum was all I had in my stash and I didn't feel like spending all day milling them.
Finally, I HIGHLY recommend the HomeDepot Alignment Kit. 10/10.
@mattressking also egged me on to finally install the 4+ U-bolt flip kit I've had collecting dust for the last 8 years....
Had some time to kill on Sunday afternoon so I decided to head to work and make some adapters for the ridiculously oversized bumpstops I ordered a few months ago. I'm honestly surprised they fit, but they worked out pretty good to keep the new steering arms from hitting things. The spacers should probably get trimmed down to match the frame width someday... but 2x4 aluminum was all I had in my stash and I didn't feel like spending all day milling them.
Finally, I HIGHLY recommend the HomeDepot Alignment Kit. 10/10.
- Thread starter
- #45
Also found out that this paint is pretty much a perfect match for the plating on the OEM Toyota calipers.
Rust-Oleum Specialty 12 oz. High Heat Ultra Semi-Gloss Silver Spray Paint 270201 - The Home Depot - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-12-oz-High-Heat-Ultra-Semi-Gloss-Silver-Spray-Paint-270201/203815372
Rust-Oleum Specialty 12 oz. High Heat Ultra Semi-Gloss Silver Spray Paint 270201 - The Home Depot - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-12-oz-High-Heat-Ultra-Semi-Gloss-Silver-Spray-Paint-270201/203815372
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
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- 583
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- 16,396
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- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
you said you have caster shims? If so they are in backwards bro. 
everything else looks great.
everything else looks great.
- Thread starter
- #47
Yep, came to that realization shortly after tightening the ubolts on the flip kit.you said you have caster shims? If so they are in backwards bro.
everything else looks great.
Previous owner installed them, and i never really questioned it. Suspension is next on the list to get sorted so ill probably wait until then to fix it.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 583
- Messages
- 16,396
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Just do it. It makes such a huge difference especially now that you have that nice flat drag link angle. You will have No RagretsYep, came to that realization shortly after tightening the ubolts on the flip kit.
- Thread starter
- #49
This weekend I finally got around to replacing the bent front spring hanger. Back in 2018 at the FJ45 Run I slid off a dusty granite boulder in a dry creek crossing and the drivers side spring hanger pretty much brought the whole truck to a stop on the next rock. It didn't crack, so I never got around to fixing it until now.
Chopped some stuff off...
Took some measurements...
Ground off the powder coating that Man-a-fre puts on their weld-on product for some reason... ?
Then glued them in with some ugly, but functional welds.
I think that if I ever decide to do the Rubicon or other slow rocky trails with this truck in the future, I'll probably add a support brace to the back side of the spring hanger to keep it from caving in like this again.
Chopped some stuff off...
Took some measurements...
Ground off the powder coating that Man-a-fre puts on their weld-on product for some reason... ?
Then glued them in with some ugly, but functional welds.
I think that if I ever decide to do the Rubicon or other slow rocky trails with this truck in the future, I'll probably add a support brace to the back side of the spring hanger to keep it from caving in like this again.
Would you mind posting a photo of how your bumper mounts with these brackets in place? I'll need to modify my bumper to work with them, but still trying to think of the best way to do it.
- Thread starter
- #51
I have a 4Plus front bumper, so I'm not sure if this will be helpful, but the two plates slide into the inside of the "C" channel of the frame and are bolted through the stock bumper mount holes. I cant totally remember what the stock bumper brackets look like, but if I'm remembering correctly I think I had to remove the stock tabs that the bumper bolts to. (installed this one in 2013 I think?)
Thank you! That does help me. My current homebrew bumper has a larger channel that goes around the stock frame channels, and will have to be re-engineered to work with the shackle reversal spring hangers.
I'll figure it out, or build/buy a different bumper. I'm not exactly in love with this cow-catcher, but it is functional.
- Thread starter
- #53
Swapped out the front springs for a set of stock 70 series springs. As suspected, the extra 1.5-2" of length on the shackle side that these springs have has totally altered the performance of the suspension for the better. I've only been able to take it for a short drive so far, but the small bump compliance is dramatically better and it feels like the suspension is working the way it should now.
The shackle reversal kits simply do not work well with stock length 60 springs (this includes lift springs). They are just too short to have an acceptable shackle angle and the resulting ride is insanely harsh. I was originally planning on having custom length springs made until these take-off springs came up locally at @SNLC.
At this point I think my 60 has more 70 series parts than 60 series parts!
My old springs were toast after 11 years of abuse.
The length difference from the center pin to the shackle end looks minor but makes a huge difference.
The shackle reversal kits simply do not work well with stock length 60 springs (this includes lift springs). They are just too short to have an acceptable shackle angle and the resulting ride is insanely harsh. I was originally planning on having custom length springs made until these take-off springs came up locally at @SNLC.
At this point I think my 60 has more 70 series parts than 60 series parts!
My old springs were toast after 11 years of abuse.
The length difference from the center pin to the shackle end looks minor but makes a huge difference.
- Thread starter
- #54
As is usually the case when you think you are finally running out of things to fix on a cruiser, two new problems will pop up... While it was jacked up for the spring swap I noticed that the front drive shaft had separated, so I'm going to have to get one with a longer travel spline before doing any significant trail runs. Then when I went to check the rear shaft I noticed that the pinion bearing was loose, so I'll have to rebuild the rear diff next.
Anyway, here is the part number for the stock springs.
Anyway, here is the part number for the stock springs.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #56
I think this thread is a bit overdue for an update.
Made up some adapters to use some common Daystar bumpstops to accommodate my goofy suspension/steering setup. They compress a lot before stopping and make for a very nice improvement over factory ones, with a much lower price tag than something like a timberen bumpstop. Also made a shorter set for @Rockymtnreaper. I may end up making these to sell as a product sometime in the future if there is enough interest and material pricing is reasonable enough to make it profitable.
Made up some adapters to use some common Daystar bumpstops to accommodate my goofy suspension/steering setup. They compress a lot before stopping and make for a very nice improvement over factory ones, with a much lower price tag than something like a timberen bumpstop. Also made a shorter set for @Rockymtnreaper. I may end up making these to sell as a product sometime in the future if there is enough interest and material pricing is reasonable enough to make it profitable.
- Thread starter
- #57
Took the truck to Stanley in July and decided it needed more power, so I ordered a turbo. Also ordered a bunch of 1HDT parts to mate it up to the 1HZ and keep it OEM looking.
Drilled/tapped the block for the support stay.
Dropping the oil pan on a 1HZ is a joy. Highly recommend using one of these thin prybars and a flexible putty knife.
Drilled/tapped the block for the support stay.
Dropping the oil pan on a 1HZ is a joy. Highly recommend using one of these thin prybars and a flexible putty knife.
- Thread starter
- #58
Welded a -10AN fitting into the oil pan for the oil return line from the turbo. I have very little experience with a TIG so this was fun to do.
I also decided to replace my cheap and bulky Chinese knock-off oil catch can with a nice Moroso one that I could tuck out of the way. Made up a simple aluminum bracket that reuses some of the existing bolts in the firewall and keeps things tidy.
I also decided to replace my cheap and bulky Chinese knock-off oil catch can with a nice Moroso one that I could tuck out of the way. Made up a simple aluminum bracket that reuses some of the existing bolts in the firewall and keeps things tidy.
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bottombracket
SILVER Star
Hairdryer noises are the best noises. GO!
- Thread starter
- #60
I wanted to keep my 62 air filter canister, so I ordered a lid for a 1HDT that has the proper outlet that drops down to the turbo. The threads that hold the lid down needed to be chased an extra inch or so, but other than that everything fit up perfectly.
Gotta love those OEM intake tubes!
Gotta love those OEM intake tubes!
