Fresh Start For A Tired 60 - 1HZ Conversion

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There was also the side excursion after SAS-5

...you might say this group is "hooked" on cruisers... @rhah @mattressking @EasternYeti @Rockymtnreaper
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The truck recently made it up to my place in Idaho from where it was being stored in California, and when it got here it refused to start unless it was parked in the garage and warmed up with a space heater for a half hour. I figured it was a problem with the glow plugs not working, or the six month old California diesel not liking the cold. After some testing with a multi-meter, all six glow plugs turned out to be dead.

Turns out I had 6v plugs which would have been correct for a factory "super-glow" system, but are not appropriate for the manual glow setup I have. The correct plugs are 10.5v, and fortunately they are readily available in the US for about $8/plug.
  • NGK 7493 Y-147T
I'm glad to have found this, since while camping in Wyoming last summer I had a hell of a time trying to get it to start one morning after a cold night. The last thing I want to do is get stuck up on a mountain with an engine that won't kick over.

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The truck recently made it up to my place in Idaho from where it was being stored in California, and when it got here it refused to start unless it was parked in the garage and warmed up with a space heater for a half hour. I figured it was a problem with the glow plugs not working, or the six month old California diesel not liking the cold. After some testing with a multi-meter, all six glow plugs turned out to be dead.

Turns out I had 6v plugs which would have been correct for a factory "super-glow" system, but are not appropriate for the manual glow setup I have. The correct plugs are 10.5v, and fortunately they are readily available in the US for about $8/plug.
  • NGK 7493 Y-147T
I'm glad to have found this, since while camping in Wyoming last summer I had a hell of a time trying to get it to start one morning after a cold night. The last thing I want to do is get stuck up on a mountain with an engine that won't kick over.

View attachment 2950248View attachment 2950249View attachment 2950250

Nice find, where did you source those?
 
Here are some useful part numbers for anyone looking to rebuild a 1HZ. I had these all listed in a spreadsheet I put together before I started the project, some of them I used, others I didn't. Hopefully this is helpful to someone someday.

"DIESEL" Decal (The most important part of the swap!)7455989101
Valve Cover Gasket1121317010
CAP ASSY, OIL FILLER1218055010
Valve Cover1120117020
Valve Cover Bolts (x14)9010506138
Timing Cover1132117010
Timing Cover Bolts (x3)9010906046
Timing Cover Washers (x3)9021008019
Timing Cover Clips (x5)9046805034
Timing Cover Gasket1132817010
Rear End Plate1135517011
Rear End Plate Bolt91621J0814
Intake Manifold Crossover Gasket1711517010
Exhaust Manifold Heatshield1716717011
Heatshield Bolts (x5)91651B0814
Glow Plug Rail1987117010
Thermostat9091603089
Thermostat Gasket1634666020
V-Belt, A/C Compressor9933211260
V-Belt, Fan and Alternator 9091602452
PULLEY, FAN1637117010
PUMP ASSY, ENGINE WATER1610019235
BOLT(FOR CRANKSHAFT PULLEY SET)9010524001
WASHER, PLATE(FOR CRANKSHAFT PULLEY SET)9020127001
BOLT, NO.1 (x6 FOR PULLEY)9010508154
PULLEY, CRANKSHAFT1340817010
RING, O9672135042
KEY(FOR CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR)9516120516
BRACKET, COMPRESSOR MOUNTING, NO.18843160150
PULLEY ASSY, IDLE8844060040
BOLT, WASHER BASED (X2 LOWER AC BRACKET)9010510253
BOLT,FLANGE (2X FRONT AC BRACKET)91511B1025
BOLT,WASHER (4X COMPRESSOR MOUNT)8889960080
BRACKET, IDLE PULLEY8844460100
BOLT, FLANGE (X2 IDLER MOUNT)91512G1025
BOLT, COOLER 8844660030
BOLT, FLYWHEEL SETTING90105-12169
CLAMP OR CLIP (FOR WATER HOSE) (low pressure power steering clamp)9046721010
HOSE, OIL RESERVOIR TO PUMP, NO.1 (low pressure power steering)4434860120
GASKET(FOR PRESSURE FEED HOSE) (power steering crush washer)9043016168
PAN SUB-ASSY, OIL1210117170
PIPE ASSY, NOZZLE LEAKAGE 2376117010
INSULATOR, ENGINE MOUNTING, REAR NO.1(trans mount)1237158021
GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD, NO.21717917010
GASKET, INTAKE TO EXHAUST MANIFOLD (intake gasket cyl 1)1717117010
BOLT (intake manifold studs)9010908188
WASHER, SEAL (intake manifold)9021008041
NUT (FOR TRANSMISSION CONTROL CABLE) intake manifold nuts9017908040
GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD HOLE COVER (crossover tube)1711517010
GASKET, OIL FILTER (oil cooler)1572517010
LABEL,T/BELT1356410010
SEAT, INJECTION NOZZLE1117664010
HOSE OR PIPE, FUEL(FOR INJECTION PUMP TO FUEL FILTER)9533304020
CLAMP OR CLIP(FOR FUEL HOSE SET) injector fuel hose9046710149
HOLDER & NOZZLE SET, NOZZLE (injectors)2360069055
PIPE SUB-ASSY, INJECTION, NO.12370117010
PIPE SUB-ASSY, INJECTION, NO.22370217010
PIPE SUB-ASSY, INJECTION, NO.32370317010
PIPE SUB-ASSY, INJECTION, NO.42370417010
PIPE SUB-ASSY, INJECTION, NO.52370517010
PIPE SUB-ASSY, INJECTION, NO.62370617010
GASKET, INJECTION PUMP (o-ring to timing cover)9030149003
RING, O(FOR VANE PUMP) (to timing cover)9030160002
KEY, VANE PUMP PULLEY9002918002
RING, O(FOR POWER STEERING SUCTION PORT)9671119019
NUT (injection pump mount nuts)9017908022

These are the parts you will need if your engine is missing the throttle linkage assembly like mine was.

Acc. Connecting Rod7810460010
Hanger Acc. Spring7816960010
Acc. Bushing, Lower9038608044
Acc. Spring9050816134
Acc. Bracket7819560011
Acc. Bushing, Upper9038608077
Rod, Acc. Connector7810360022
Washer, Upper and Lower (x2)9461210800
Wave Washer (Lower) (x1)9453100800
Slotted Nut (Lower) 9414260840
Cotter Pin Generic
Flange Bolt (Mounting Bolts)91511B0812
 
Here are some useful part numbers for anyone looking to rebuild a 1HZ. I had these all listed in a spreadsheet I put together before I started the project, some of them I used, others I didn't. Hopefully this is helpful to someone someday.

"DIESEL" Decal (The most important part of the swap!)7455989101
Valve Cover Gasket1121317010
CAP ASSY, OIL FILLER1218055010
Valve Cover1120117020
Valve Cover Bolts (x14)9010506138
Timing Cover1132117010
Timing Cover Bolts (x3)9010906046
Timing Cover Washers (x3)9021008019
Timing Cover Clips (x5)9046805034
Timing Cover Gasket1132817010
Rear End Plate1135517011
Rear End Plate Bolt91621J0814
Intake Manifold Crossover Gasket1711517010
Exhaust Manifold Heatshield1716717011
Heatshield Bolts (x5)91651B0814
Glow Plug Rail1987117010
Thermostat9091603089
Thermostat Gasket1634666020
V-Belt, A/C Compressor9933211260
V-Belt, Fan and Alternator9091602452
PULLEY, FAN1637117010
PUMP ASSY, ENGINE WATER1610019235
BOLT(FOR CRANKSHAFT PULLEY SET)9010524001
WASHER, PLATE(FOR CRANKSHAFT PULLEY SET)9020127001
BOLT, NO.1 (x6 FOR PULLEY)9010508154
PULLEY, CRANKSHAFT1340817010
RING, O9672135042
KEY(FOR CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR)9516120516
BRACKET, COMPRESSOR MOUNTING, NO.18843160150
PULLEY ASSY, IDLE8844060040
BOLT, WASHER BASED (X2 LOWER AC BRACKET)9010510253
BOLT,FLANGE (2X FRONT AC BRACKET)91511B1025
BOLT,WASHER (4X COMPRESSOR MOUNT)8889960080
BRACKET, IDLE PULLEY8844460100
BOLT, FLANGE (X2 IDLER MOUNT)91512G1025
BOLT, COOLER8844660030
BOLT, FLYWHEEL SETTING90105-12169
CLAMP OR CLIP (FOR WATER HOSE) (low pressure power steering clamp)9046721010
HOSE, OIL RESERVOIR TO PUMP, NO.1 (low pressure power steering)4434860120
GASKET(FOR PRESSURE FEED HOSE) (power steering crush washer)9043016168
PAN SUB-ASSY, OIL1210117170
PIPE ASSY, NOZZLE LEAKAGE2376117010
INSULATOR, ENGINE MOUNTING, REAR NO.1(trans mount)1237158021
GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD, NO.21717917010
GASKET, INTAKE TO EXHAUST MANIFOLD (intake gasket cyl 1)1717117010
BOLT (intake manifold studs)9010908188
WASHER, SEAL (intake manifold)9021008041
NUT (FOR TRANSMISSION CONTROL CABLE) intake manifold nuts9017908040
GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD HOLE COVER (crossover tube)1711517010
GASKET, OIL FILTER (oil cooler)1572517010
LABEL,T/BELT1356410010
SEAT, INJECTION NOZZLE1117664010
HOSE OR PIPE, FUEL(FOR INJECTION PUMP TO FUEL FILTER)9533304020
CLAMP OR CLIP(FOR FUEL HOSE SET) injector fuel hose9046710149
HOLDER & NOZZLE SET, NOZZLE (injectors)2360069055
PIPE SUB-ASSY, INJECTION, NO.12370117010
PIPE SUB-ASSY, INJECTION, NO.22370217010
PIPE SUB-ASSY, INJECTION, NO.32370317010
PIPE SUB-ASSY, INJECTION, NO.42370417010
PIPE SUB-ASSY, INJECTION, NO.52370517010
PIPE SUB-ASSY, INJECTION, NO.62370617010
GASKET, INJECTION PUMP (o-ring to timing cover)9030149003
RING, O(FOR VANE PUMP) (to timing cover)9030160002
KEY, VANE PUMP PULLEY9002918002
RING, O(FOR POWER STEERING SUCTION PORT)9671119019
NUT (injection pump mount nuts)9017908022

These are the parts you will need if your engine is missing the throttle linkage assembly like mine was.

Acc. Connecting Rod7810460010
Hanger Acc. Spring7816960010
Acc. Bushing, Lower9038608044
Acc. Spring9050816134
Acc. Bracket7819560011
Acc. Bushing, Upper9038608077
Rod, Acc. Connector7810360022
Washer, Upper and Lower (x2)9461210800
Wave Washer (Lower) (x1)9453100800
Slotted Nut (Lower)9414260840
Cotter PinGeneric
Flange Bolt (Mounting Bolts)91511B0812
My hero.
 
Thank you for all the resources. Were you able to use or keep AC when you did the swap? Could this conversion work with an H42 transmission?
 
Thank you for all the resources. Were you able to use or keep AC when you did the swap? Could this conversion work with an H42 transmission?
Although I have not set it up yet, the ac will eventually be put together as if it were stock. The only thing that changes is that the compressor needs to be the correct one for a 1HZ. I have a used 1FZ compressor that I tried, and although it bolts up, the pulleys don't line up. Other than that just need to get new hoses crimped with whatever size fittings the correct compressor will need.

There should be part numbers in that list for the compressor bracket and tensioner pulley if anyone has an engine that was missing them.


As for the transmission; I believe the H42 would bolt up to the same belhousing needed to run the H55, but you would need to source and swap the input shaft. The H42, and standard US spec H55 (for older trucks) use a coarse spline input shaft (may also be shorter?), and the 1HZ needs a fine spline input shaft.

IMO, if you're going through all the effort of the swap, it's a really good time to upgrade to the 5-speed.
 
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Thank you for the added information. I agree the 5 speed is an upgrade. My truck is an '82, so it seems like it would be more involved to install the 5 speed with the shorter transmission body and I was wondering if this conversion could be done in phases, but then it would probably require changing the input shaft for a transmission twice--for the H42 and then again later for the H55. Although, if the input shaft is interchangeable between H42 and H55, I guess its possible.
 
Thank you for the added information. I agree the 5 speed is an upgrade. My truck is an '82, so it seems like it would be more involved to install the 5 speed with the shorter transmission body and I was wondering if this conversion could be done in phases, but then it would probably require changing the input shaft for a transmission twice--for the H42 and then again later for the H55. Although, if the input shaft is interchangeable between H42 and H55, I guess its possible.
It’s definitely possible….the H41 variant was actually available behind 1HZs in South America.

That being said, no way I’d bother swapping an input on a 4spd. If you found a good fine spline 4spd sure, but otherwise call up Georg or cruiser outfitters and get the correct 5 speed unit ready to go
 
Wiring For A 1HZ / 1FZ Alternator In An FJ60

Last month I realized that the alternator was overcharging at somewhere between 15-16 volts, which is not good! So in an effort to prevent the truck from catching on fire, I started going through how the alternator was wired in.

The alternator plug had one of the terminals wired backwards; the "ignition" wire was correct, but the "lamp" wire was plugged into the "signal" location and I had nothing plugged into the "lamp" terminal.

From the FJ60 wiring, the black with yellow stripe wire needs to go the the "ignition" terminal, the yellow with white stripe needs to go to the "lamp" terminal, and an additional sense wire needs to be added going from the "sense" terminal on the alternator to the positive battery post.

The two white wires need to be attached to the alternator output post. One of these wires goes through the fuseable link to charge the battery, the other goes to the parking brake warning lamp circuit, which will come on along side the charge warning light if the alternator is not working correctly. (<< I'm not an expert on electrical stuff so I may be interpreting the wiring diagrams incorrectly... if anyone has a correction for this, please let me know!)

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(^^^ took this image from somebody else's thread)

The blue wire is the sense wire that I added.

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The @Cruiser Cult FSM listings made this a lot easier to figure out; definitely a great resource when troubleshooting between two different generations of cruiser parts.
Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) - https://www.cruisercult.com/factory-service-manuals
 
Hi Darrell
 
Although I have not set it up yet, the ac will eventually be put together as if it were stock. The only thing that changes is that the compressor needs to be the correct one for a 1HZ. I have a used 1FZ compressor that I tried, and although it bolts up, the pulleys don't line up. Other than that just need to get new hoses crimped with whatever size fittings the correct compressor will need.

There should be part numbers in that list for the compressor bracket and tensioner pulley if anyone has an engine that was missing them.


As for the transmission; I believe the H42 would bolt up to the same belhousing needed to run the H55, but you would need to source and swap the input shaft. The H42, and standard US spec H55 (for older trucks) use a coarse spline input shaft (may also be shorter?), and the 1HZ needs a fine spline input shaft.

IMO, if you're going through all the effort of the swap, it's a really good time to upgrade to the 5-speed.
There’s no way to mate an H42 to a 1HZ/HDT ……. only 5-speeds; H55F, R151 or H15x-series

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
 
There’s no way to mate an H42 to a 1HZ/HDT ……. only 5-speeds; H55F, R151 or H15x-series

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
H42 input shaft can't be swapped to the h55 input shaft used on 1HZ? I have no clue, just curious. Never compared nor thought about it.
 

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