Frame rust inhibitor

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Joined
Oct 3, 2017
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Location
Long Island
i picked up a new frame that seems to be in decent shape. I don't plan on sandblasting. Instead, I'm going to wire wheel it sand it to remove any loose stuff. What's the current consensus on the best paint to lock up and slow any rust? I've used POR in the past on different projects with varied results. I'm hoping there's something better out there now.
Thanks!
 
The sheetrock in my garage has been pelted by chunks of wire from hundreds of hours of wire wheeling. My daughters no longer come out to the garage with barefeet due to wire chunks. So I feel like a hypocrit telling you to media blast your frame. But, media blasting is so much quicker and will get in nooks that are challenging to wheel. At a minimum I think you would be wise to get a blasting quote. I have recently taken a few parts to a local blaster. It is so nice to pick up clean parts. If you are inclined to put a value on time savings, paying a blaster is worth it IMHO.

After blasting I’d use 2 part epoxy primers and paint. On my frames exterior I used POR-15’s 2 part epoxy that was labeled “Hardnose”. They’ve since changed the label. It was spendy stuff but boy is it ever tough.
 
Whatever coating you use, it will probably need a better prepared surface than wire wheeling.

Nothing sticks to smooth.
x2 Wire wheeling burnishes the metal which makes bad surface for paint, POR even warns against it in the surface prep notes.
 
Thanks guys. I got a couple quotes for about $600 to media blast. It's not in the budget at this point. What's best form of prep other than blasting. Can the Rust converter and similar be applied to raw metal?
 
Thanks guys. I got a couple quotes for about $600 to media blast. It's not in the budget at this point. What's best form of prep other than blasting. Can the Rust converter and similar be applied to raw metal?

There’s nothing to convert if it’s down to raw metal.

$600 sounds excessive. I would look around some more.
 
Your frame should take about 2 hours to sandblast. We are usually right around $150 to sandblast a small frame, 250-300 to clean/phosphate wash and powder coat. Do some searching for better$$. Make sure you do an aggressive media like sand, aluminum oxide, black beauty (coal slag). Not soda- works great on paint but softer than rust. Consider an etching type sealer on the bare frame too as it will have phosphoric acid, just like those rust converters. The acid strips a small amount of iron off of the surface, instantly becomes iron phosphate, and bonds right back to the steel. Kind of a cold plating process. Epoxy primer is a good next step. All this assuming you aren't powder coating it.

Also, look for a semi gloss black for a finish vs. gloss, it looks way better over imperfections. Spraying is king over brushing for looks too.

Good luck!
 
No coating will adequately protect the 'sandwich' areas where the frame is riveted together. If you're going to drive your truck in the winter in a salt-prone climate, I would pour ATF or another thin oil in the frame and let it creep into these crevices, and then wipe off the excess. Only do this after all other paint/coating work is done, of course.
 
600 is way too much. I did mine and tons of parts for 250 Canadian. If you do it and you’ll be glad you did. Treat it with the above suggestions and then fluid film the crap out of it as a finish. Especially if your in a rust belt.
 

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