Floor Treatment

[residualboulders]

Hey fellas. Whats everyone's input on the floor treatment? I pulled the carpet PO had installed to inspect the floor as I am repainting the truck. Its in very good shape, just has a small surface rust spot in the drivers footwell and a few minor dings from transporting gear. I was thinking color matched raptor liner or something of that nature. The carpet the PO installed was done pretty well and it's still in really good condition so I might just put it back in after paint. The original 'ditramat" style sound deadener is still in perfect shape. I was thinking maybe some kind of bedliner would protect the floor from rusting if the carpet gets wet. Thoughts?

also, what about the voids behind the panels in the cargo area? sound mat, bedliner material so I can spray in the hard to get areas? I kinda hate to put any bedliner type product on it, but I also would like to try and keep it from rusting.

 

[bobm]

Check out @scrapdaddy . Build he used da Lizardskin.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I used Zero Rust paint first, then Lizard Skin products for heat control and sound deadening and finished up with a bedliner (tough). I used Monstaliner for that. I would throw any carpeting as far away as I could. They all leak to some degree and that just means rust.

Inside the doors, cargo panels, under hood, under floor, on floor, under roof, under fenders, firewall, inner fenders, they all got it and now she's nice and quiet. If it was me and I was that far into it, take down the headliner and spray the snizzle out of the inner rain gutter with a rust converter and down the A pillar, too. They may not be rusted through today, but tomorrow they will be.

You've got a nice wagon, but you need to take the steps to keep it that way.

 

[residualboulders]

@scrapdaddy thanks for the info. I didn't realize you did a bedliner over the lizard skin. So did you sand the lizard skin surface before bedliner? That would be tough to do in the door cavities and such.

The original owner repainted about 10 years ago and put about 1/2" of bondo in the gutter up top, i'm guessing so the water wouldn't settle there. It looked goofy so I ground it all out down to the metal and put rust converter on it. I'd like to treat the inside too, but I didn't really want to pull my headliner. My cargo windows and windshield still have the original chrome molding in the rubber and you can't get those anymore. That and my headliner is in great shape. I guess that's something I need to think about though.

 

[scrapdaddy]

No sanding, just spray over it. The Lizard Skin has a rough texture as does the bedliner. You can use a sprayer and get inside the panels pretty well. I know you'd like to keep the chrome molding, but that roof gutter is rusting from the inside out. The only way to get at it is from the inside and that means taking out the headliner.

Question is, are you painting it to flip or are you planning to hang on to it? I'd keep doing your homework and go from there. If you were to ask me about that chrome on the molding, I'd say deep six it.

Something else I'd put a seam sealer in the gutter before painting it, just to seal it up.

Lastly, please keep reading and asking questions because I'm not the answer man.

 

[gonzopancho]

These are all great details. Thanks! (Not thread jacking, just watching.)

 

[wngrog]

I put stick on in the walls of my 55 and on the floor. Since then, I have gotten some experience with Lizard Skin and I love it.
In places that cannot be seen the stick on is great and easy.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

@scrapdaddy did a great job. You should read his build thread. I don't think you need to put bedliner over the sound/heat deadener in the body cavities. At least I can't see why you would want to do that. I'm considering going as close to OEM as I can in the exposed areas of the cabin and using the lizard skin and raptor underneath the tub and on the firewall. Of course you would need to pull the body to do that. I will just use lizard skin on the ceiling and in the body cavities. At last that's my current thinking.

I'm also in the "keep the chrome trim camp" and completely empathize with the headliner dilemma. Unfortunately I think my windshield gasket will have to come out so that's a major issue. Good luck!

 

[scrapdaddy]

I don't think you need to put bedliner over the sound/heat deadener in the body cavities. At least I can't see why you would want to do that.

You're correct, I didn't use the Monstaliner inside the cavities, just where you could scrape or gouge the LZ. The Monstaliner puts a nice hard shell over the others.

 

[residualboulders]

thanks for the input guys. Yeah I agree now that you mention it it seems pretty pointless to cover the lizard skin in areas you can’t see and won’t be using the surface. So my bro just had his 62 headliner replaced and they were able to save the chrome trim on the window weatherstrip. Not that big of deal really, I just like the original look.

 

[RocketCityCrzrs]

I am on board with @scrapdaddy Lizard Skin as heat and audio dampener and monstaliner over that to protect and harden it. THat is what i am working on doing in the cargo area of my pig. I put ThermoPad (heat and sound) down over the passenger area of my pig just because i wanted to reuse my rubber mats which are in perfect shape. Ive been happy with it, but the lizard skin would look better and be more permanent IMHO

 

[scrapdaddy]

One thing to think about in regards to the final coat is the texture of the spray on products. If you choose a light color bedliner the dirt will show up more and be hard to clean out of the dimples. I color matched mine to the off white color of my wagon. The dirt shows up on the floor, but I use a wet rag and can get most up. Not a big deal to me.

 

[roadstr6]

Whatever you do, pull the carpet out and never look back.

 

[residualboulders]

One thing to think about in regards to the final coat is the texture of the spray on products. If you choose a light color bedliner the dirt will show up more and be hard to clean out of the dimples. I color matched mine to the off white color of my wagon. The dirt shows up on the floor, but I use a wet rag and can get most up. Not a big deal to me.

Ooh, thanks for that. I was going to color match the floor so that is good to know, preferably a fine texture then so it wipes up ok.

 

[scrapdaddy]

preferably a fine texture then so it wipes up ok.

I'm just not sure how to get a fine texture. It will always be rough. I think rolling it on might be finer, but not by much. It's just part of being a tough, old Landcruiser.

 

[residualboulders]

@scrapdaddy yes, i guess what i meant was... they say the pressure you use while spraying the bedliner can determine a very rough or mildly rough finish. So probably want to go for the mildly rough.

Bad news. Spent a few hours yesterday cleaning up the floor. I removed the sound dampening membrane from the drivers foot well to prep for spray liner and found the PO patched a rust hole with a glob of bondo, then put the membrane over top. I never noticed it from beneath because it was right above the frame rail. So, looks like I'll be doing a little floor patch before I can spray a liner.

 

[scrapdaddy]

So, looks like I'll be doing a little floor patch before I can spray a liner.

Due Diligence!

 

[J Mack]

I kinda hate to put any bedliner type product on it, but I also would like to try and keep it from rusting.

Spray in bed liner is usually polyurea and would provide good protection to the inside of a pig, unfortunately the equipment to apply it is expensive and would be prohibitive for the home do-it-yourselfer. The home gamer roll in bed liners are usually polyurethane paint with rubber chunks to give them texture so if the rough texture is a put off for you than just polyurethane paint might be a better option.
Mathys Noxyde is another option if you want a semi flexible coating, Noxyde is an industrial coating that’s easy to apply and will outperform LizardSkin as a protective coating. If you want the ceramic microspheres they can easily be added to Noxyde.

Mathys - Noxyde

Ceramic Microspheres Make Paint Insulate

If flexible coating isn’t important to you then it would be hard to beat POR-15 for film build and durability to help keep rust at bay.

A true marine 2-Part Epoxy Primer is a good idea under whatever top coat you come up with if ultimate protection is your end goal.

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

@J Mack does the Mathys do any insulation/ sound deadening? Or a more of a super paint?

 

[J Mack]

@J Mack does the Mathys do any insulation/ sound deadening? Or a more of a super paint?

It is a great paint for protecting the pig body, it is also a semi rubberized coating so by default it will sound deaden. I agree with the mutable product approach protection, heat control and sound deadening VS the one product does all. I coated both sides of the floor and firewall with epoxy primer and 3 coats of Mathys Noxyde, the second coat has ceramic microspheres. I have a rubber mat sitting on top of that then my factory floor mats on top of that, you’ve ridden in my pig and I believe this system quiets the Cummins engine down a reasonable amount.


Pretty good overview of the product



Kind of a silly test but it does show the film durability