Flipping the rear springs?

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Mukilteo, WA
I will be ordering a 4" lift for my FJ40. I will likely go with the Rough Country lift. My question is regarding flipping the rear springs. I have seen this mentioned in a few threads. Is the sole purpose of doing this to move the backwheels further to the rear increasing the wheelbase? Are there any drawbacks to doing this? is the process of flipping them pretty straight forward? I did a search and did a bit of reading through threads but could not really find answers to these questions.
 
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Here's what I think I know - hopefully the experts will correct any errors in my summary...

I am talking about flipping the rear springs.... As far as I understand, on an FJ-40, this can give you about 4" more of wheelbase.

There is some advantage to getting FJ-55 springs instead (or in conjucntion with?) the spring flip?

You can keep the top spring in the same spot (to keep the military wrap forward) by redrilling the cnetering hole. There have been a couple of thereads on drilling springs recently. Use a cheap masonry bit.

Drawbacks - need a longer rear driveshaft. You might have to cut your fenders to make your wheels look centered.

Rocky
 
i think the main reason for performing the flip is to increase wheel base and also the departure angle..

the drawbacks i foresee may be if you're a purist and dont want to cut / modify the rear guards? also driveshaft lengthen = money.. not that expensive, just added cost.. (as mentioned above.. ;) )

:)
 
Flipping the springs are pretty easy, just get some good drill bits and cutting oil. Some argue that drilling weakens the leaves.
 
Easy, but ...

In my experience, the hardest thing about flipping the springs is getting them on and off the truck. And since you'll be doing that anyway for your lift springs, that's a wash. Drilling the 2nd leaf to keep the military wrap on the fixed end (which you definitely want to do) wasn't that big a deal - but it may be harder (pun intended) with new springs than with 30-year-old ones like I had.

But ... you will have to lengthen your drive shaft. It made sense for me at the time 'cause mine needed re-tubing anyway. You'll have to decide if this extra expense (and reduced interchangeability) is worth the benefit. My $0.02. HTH.
Alfred
 
Leave it be

Lets not forget. They made the springs offset for a reason. Swaping them will give your more weelbase(around 4 inches) on stock springs. On lifted springs you will net less because the arch of the spring soaks up some of that length.
You will also lose some flex. On a spring over it may not be noticable but with lifted spings you will see the difference. My opinion is keep the long end toward the shackle.
 
question: when doing this (IE: flipping spring and redrill) on a SOA fj40 rig, and using used FJ55 springs, how much more of additional wheelbase can one expect when moving from a SOA fj40 stance (non flipped)??? I know the 55 springs are longer so I would guess it would be quite a bit more.

thanks,

Noah
 
flipping an FJ40 rear spring will net you the same wheel base gain as switching to an FJ55 rear spring.

an FJ55 rear spring has centered centerpins and the distance from the eye to center pin is the same as an FJ 40's long side.

:beer:
 
Actually the '55 spring is not centered. More so than the '40 spring, but not exactly. Normally the '55 spring is not flipped, but installed normally under the '40. This gains you about 4 inches. If you reverse the '55 spring you gain an additional 30mm IIRC (almost an inch and a quarter).


Mark...
 
thanks mark, that's the answer I was looking for.

Is there any way to move (or flip) just the rear spring hanger on the FJ40 to get a few more inches of wheelbase while keeping the stock front fj40 hanger in it's stock place?? I would think this might be possible because the 55 springs are longer?

Noah
 
I'm not sure what you are asking. Anything you do to the rear springs (moving hangers) is completely independent of the front springs.


Mark...
 
I have done the spring flip front & rear on my 40 and gained 3.5 inches on each axle, total of 7 inches. what I did find is a 4" lift spring is a little shorter than a stock spring so my shackles were almost straight up and down and would not let my springs flex well,so I moved my stationary spring hanger in 1.5-2" now it works better than ever. I'm usung a skyjacker 4" spring that is military wraped on both ends. If anything it corrected my caster more towards stock.
 
Can someone post some pics of this. I have a 4" HFS lift and want to get an idea of what the rear fenders would look like if I flip the springs and cut the rear fender.
 
4” springs like rough country do not have mil wraps. HFS has mil wraps on both sides. In cases like these do you need to re-drill anything or can you just simply rotate the springs 180 degrees and reinstall?
 
Can someone post some pics of this. I have a 4" HFS lift and want to get an idea of what the rear fenders would look like if I flip the springs and cut the rear fender.

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with trimming:

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wheelbase:

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From my thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=45757
 
You will also lose some flex. On a spring over it may not be noticable but with lifted spings you will see the difference. My opinion is keep the long end toward the shackle.

No you won't.


Mark...
 
flipped spring

i just
P3260124.jpg
fliped mine around,didnt drill anything, is that a bad thing?
 
P3260125.jpg

another shot, ours is a 65fj40 with SB350/TH350/NP205
 

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