Flexing the 3 link (2 Viewers)

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Impressive flexing.

Looks like an easy way to swap springs. Put that one in the FAQ.

Powder blue for the exo. Would not be my first choice, but works for it.
 
Very cool. Let's see some more pics! I know there's more since I saw it on Instagram :)
 
So, with the coil unseated by what looks like 5" or more, what offroad/traction/tip over etc benefit would this have versus if the same front passenger wheel was 5" (or even 10") off the ground?

Just want to understand what is being achieved in this specific situation/configuration.

cheers,
george.
 
what [...] benefit would this have versus if the same front passenger wheel was 5" (or even 10") off the ground?

I don't know...could you even go that far up the hill with a stock radius arm setup? Seems like factory setup would make the front end that much more rigid, resulting in way too much body lean and being way too tippy to try that.
 
I don't know...could you even go that far up the hill with a stock radius arm setup? Seems like factory setup would make the front end that much more rigid, resulting in way too much body lean and being way too tippy to try that.

I think the reverse would happen and it'd feel more stable, actually. The rear end would be flexing to accommodate it and the front end (on flat ground) would be forcing the driver front up.

Having a linked front-end is interesting because you have to re-learn how you'll flex over stuff. My front end is looser than the rear (which is the case for a lot of people with linked front ends - the rear is still considerably constrained by bushings and the factory swaybar) and you can't drive by braille any more.
 
I think the reverse would happen and it'd feel more stable, actually. The rear end would be flexing to accommodate it and the front end (on flat ground) would be forcing the driver front up.

Having a linked front-end is interesting because you have to re-learn how you'll flex over stuff. My front end is looser than the rear (which is the case for a lot of people with linked front ends - the rear is still considerably constrained by bushings and the factory swaybar) and you can't drive by braille any more.

I'm trying to visualize in my head how a radius arm setup would handle that hill if you took the exact same angle. Seems like you'd shift a lot of weight to the driver's side as the passenger front starts to lift up in the air. The coil may be unseated which isn't ideal but the shock is still there acting like a limiting strap I suppose, keeping all that weight from teetering over.

Putting it on Metal Cloak's CTI ramp would be a neat test

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I'm trying to visualize in my head how a radius arm setup would handle that hill if you took the exact same angle. Seems like you'd shift a lot of weight to the driver's side as the passenger front starts to lift up in the air. The coil may be unseated which isn't ideal but the shock is still there acting like a limiting strap I suppose, keeping all that weight from teetering over.

The front end would win the fight and the body would mostly stay aligned with the front axle until the rear end hit the bump stops. Then it'd force the front end on the driver side down until that load was enough to lift the passenger front tire. Loosening up the front end means the whole body can lean away from the front axle (which is level with the ground), meaning having more flex actually makes it feel more off-cambery.

So the moral of the story is that if you can keep your front end level and you have traction, more flex in the front end is overrated. But rarely do trails give us those sorts of options and having front end flex lets you crawl up walls and turn wide, get over rocks without feeling tipsy, and so on.
 
I've changed the tie rod and the drag link both to a heavy duty setup. I folded the stock one like a taco when I was running XML's.

Wheeling like this is what prompted the 3 Link:

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I still made it through this spot but I would have had more traction if I could have put the driver side tire down on that rock it was hovering over. Now with a 3 link setup I can do just that. Is it more stable? That's debatable but it does allow me to keep 4 tires in contact with the ground most of the time. It does take some getting used to.

I'll take some more pics later today of the 3 link setup.
 
No doubt a linked front end makes for a more capable rig in crawling / more intense wheeling, especially in the hands of someone who is used to it. But a lot of people mistakenly think it'll make the rig more stable under all circumstances which isn't true. I would suspect a lot of 80 owners have grown accustomed to the feel of their rigid front end and would have to re-learn a bit if they linked the front. I know I did.
 
Why dont we all just put leaf springs in the back too?

Your theories are humorous(at best).

No doubt a linked front end makes for a more capable rig in crawling / more intense wheeling, especially in the hands of someone who is used to it. But a lot of people mistakenly think it'll make the rig more stable under all circumstances which isn't true. I would suspect a lot of 80 owners have grown accustomed to the feel of their rigid front end and would have to re-learn a bit if they linked the front. I know I did.
 
Why dont we all just put leaf springs in the back too?

Your theories are humorous(at best).
What does this have to do with leafs in the rear?

I'm not sure which theory you're referring to. More flex doesn't always equate with a better handling, more stable platform under all circumstances? That's not a theory at all, it's just common sense. Try doing desert racing with an unbound 3-link and then give it a shot with a factory 80 radius arm setup.
 
This 'stable platform' you speak of is absent from your 3 link apparently? Im gonna guess a low panhard and steepish lower links and(or) soft springs with little/no compression dampening on the shocks.

I dont know, but this stabilty from binding in radius arms is some of the goofiest stuff ive read. I can still make it a slinky, just by removing the
shocks or destroy handling at speed by throwing an 8" lift coil on it.

What does having a 3 link in front have to do with the things youre saying? Especially the desrt racing comment?
 
This 'stable platform' you speak of is absent from your 3 link apparently? Im gonna guess a low panhard and steepish lower links and(or) soft springs with little/no compression dampening on the shocks.

I dont know, but this stabilty from binding in radius arms is some of the goofiest stuff ive read. I can still make it a slinky, just by removing the
shocks or destroy handling at speed by throwing an 8" lift coil on it.

What does having a 3 link in front have to do with the things youre saying? Especially the desrt racing comment?
I'm not going to get into a pissing match with you, though it seems you're looking for one. All I'm saying is that specifically in the scenario given from the pictures above, the stock radius arm setup would likely have made the body MORE parallel to the ground plane and less tipsy. The stock bushings attempt to twist the axle tube like a giant anti-roll bar. If the front was attempting to drive up the hill on one side it's a different story since you wouldn't want to force the body into the same plane as the front axle.

If you're trying to disagree on that point then I have to say that I think you're wrong but I don't really care if we agree.
 
This 'stable platform' you speak of is absent from your 3 link apparently? Im gonna guess a low panhard and steepish lower links and(or) soft springs with little/no compression dampening on the shocks.

I dont know, but this stabilty from binding in radius arms is some of the goofiest stuff ive read. I can still make it a slinky, just by removing the
shocks or destroy handling at speed by throwing an 8" lift coil on it.

What does having a 3 link in front have to do with the things youre saying? Especially the desrt racing comment?

Good luck booger, this s***s all too common on this site. This is a predominately bolt on site, or at least the 80 series forum.
 

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