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what [...] benefit would this have versus if the same front passenger wheel was 5" (or even 10") off the ground?
I don't know...could you even go that far up the hill with a stock radius arm setup? Seems like factory setup would make the front end that much more rigid, resulting in way too much body lean and being way too tippy to try that.
I think the reverse would happen and it'd feel more stable, actually. The rear end would be flexing to accommodate it and the front end (on flat ground) would be forcing the driver front up.
Having a linked front-end is interesting because you have to re-learn how you'll flex over stuff. My front end is looser than the rear (which is the case for a lot of people with linked front ends - the rear is still considerably constrained by bushings and the factory swaybar) and you can't drive by braille any more.
I'm trying to visualize in my head how a radius arm setup would handle that hill if you took the exact same angle. Seems like you'd shift a lot of weight to the driver's side as the passenger front starts to lift up in the air. The coil may be unseated which isn't ideal but the shock is still there acting like a limiting strap I suppose, keeping all that weight from teetering over.
No doubt a linked front end makes for a more capable rig in crawling / more intense wheeling, especially in the hands of someone who is used to it. But a lot of people mistakenly think it'll make the rig more stable under all circumstances which isn't true. I would suspect a lot of 80 owners have grown accustomed to the feel of their rigid front end and would have to re-learn a bit if they linked the front. I know I did.
What does this have to do with leafs in the rear?Why dont we all just put leaf springs in the back too?
Your theories are humorous(at best).
I'm not going to get into a pissing match with you, though it seems you're looking for one. All I'm saying is that specifically in the scenario given from the pictures above, the stock radius arm setup would likely have made the body MORE parallel to the ground plane and less tipsy. The stock bushings attempt to twist the axle tube like a giant anti-roll bar. If the front was attempting to drive up the hill on one side it's a different story since you wouldn't want to force the body into the same plane as the front axle.This 'stable platform' you speak of is absent from your 3 link apparently? Im gonna guess a low panhard and steepish lower links and(or) soft springs with little/no compression dampening on the shocks.
I dont know, but this stabilty from binding in radius arms is some of the goofiest stuff ive read. I can still make it a slinky, just by removing the
shocks or destroy handling at speed by throwing an 8" lift coil on it.
What does having a 3 link in front have to do with the things youre saying? Especially the desrt racing comment?
This 'stable platform' you speak of is absent from your 3 link apparently? Im gonna guess a low panhard and steepish lower links and(or) soft springs with little/no compression dampening on the shocks.
I dont know, but this stabilty from binding in radius arms is some of the goofiest stuff ive read. I can still make it a slinky, just by removing the
shocks or destroy handling at speed by throwing an 8" lift coil on it.
What does having a 3 link in front have to do with the things youre saying? Especially the desrt racing comment?