Clean it all up and go out during the day. Fill it with fluid and see where it goes
Flaming 40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Pura Vida
- Start date
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I'm all about building from scrap yard parts, bush/shade-tree mechanic, etc., but, a crusty master cylinder just isn't convenient to mess around with. Even if it is good to go, I'd at least wipe everything down, internally, blow out passages with compressed air, etc. But, really, a new one is what I'd reach for.
Also, an affordable air compressor would do wonders for clearing out the old brake lines, and T-fittings. It makes cleaning, in some situations, possible.
Also, an affordable air compressor would do wonders for clearing out the old brake lines, and T-fittings. It makes cleaning, in some situations, possible.
why the heck would you tow it from the back in the first place, thats so wrong...
This is something I could help you with possibly over Christmas break, App State gets out early Dec. I’ve done it twice, not on a 40 before just a 75 and a Prado but not too different. Purchase the rebuild kit from crusier outfitters with the seals, gaskets, and bearings
Pura Vida
What an absolute noob
- Thread starter
- #145
I wasn’t the tow guy, I was expecting him to unhitch and turn it around after he got it out of the lot but he never did. Anyway, it’s ok. Time for a knuckle and brake rebuild, and if that didn’t happen, I don’t think I would have noticed it until I started driving
I’m reliving teenage years reading this. Keep the enthusiasm up! someone forgot to add to grab or buy a giant pile of rags or shop towels for knuckle job. nitrile or rubber gloves are helpful to when it comes to scooping grease. Keep the pics coming
Are we looking at brake fluid dripping off the knuckle?
Cracked/broken soft lines? Are all the fittings and bleeders tight?
Pura Vida
What an absolute noob
- Thread starter
- #150
I mean I unscrewed and took out the bleeder bolt because it was rusted, but no fluid came out when I took it off. The hole in the inside was covered with rust so I opened it up with a toothpick and tried bleeding it again but nothing happened. I’m going to take a closer look tomorrow but the fluid was dripping near the leaf in the picture above.
There was a giant pool of fluid when the brakes caught fire on the tow truck so maybe something melted or exploded then
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It's pretty easy to bleed brakes by yourself by pumping them up and cracking the bleeders, but you may want a friend to help if you haven't done it before.
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
Replace your front brake system. The whole thing won't cost more than a few hundred bucks. master, calipers, and all front and rear soft lines. Passing this up isn't smart.
I 2nd this. Not much is more terrifying than going to brake and nothing happening... luckily only happened to me at a stop sign in our old 55 but could've been much worse. Get it braking before you get it moving.
I found that my new hard lines probably weren't necessary. There wasn't any significant corrosion, but, why wait to discover otherwise? I almost rolled my 73 with wet brake shoes on one side - yes the seals were old, but the cast iron parts (master and wheel cylinders) were just ever so pitted (and pitted deeper than honing stone technology can really correct). I did clean them up and install new seals, and they worked, but it was a foolish risk, as the unevenness of a starting to fail brake system is really unpredictable and dangerous. Maybe get a section of generic line from NAPA so that you can practice making a 'bench bleed' set-up, where you connect a short line from the master to the reservoir above? It would allow you to test your current master cylinder, and to set-up your next one - if you need to bench bleed it. $164.79 - new OEM master. A tubing bender, tubing pliers, and flaring tool, will allow you to fabricate an entire new hydraulic system. Maybe better with compressed air to clean internal stuff with.
If you undo the soft line at each wheel, you can bleed into a container, and not on your driveway. Pics of your current master cylinder would be helpful.
FJBen
SILVER Star
You have to take the hub off and basically start tearing into a knuckle rebuild. I suggest watching the axle rebuild videos.
I would get new calipers/pads/rotors/soft lines/master cylinder etc. Call up cruiser outfitters and tell them what you need to redo the whole brake system.
I would get new calipers/pads/rotors/soft lines/master cylinder etc. Call up cruiser outfitters and tell them what you need to redo the whole brake system.
Check with your local auto parts. They may have some. Pretty unlikely though.
