Flaming 40 (3 Viewers)

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I didn’t see the big flame but the tow truck driver said the flame shot out like 4 feet. Crazy. I looked in my mirror and the car was smoking, and I was confused because well, the engine couldn’t run yet and it was on a tow truck for heavens sake. Thankfully no major damage. I saw a small flame and the driver sprayed it with a fire extinguisher
 
Personally, I would install a new caliper if necessary to move it safely and get the engine bay together and running before starting a knuckle job.

After the truck runs and starts you can determine if are satisfied with the mechanics engine work and excercise any warranty etc.
 
This thread has just been a lot more helpful than my diesel thread, so I think I’m going to just do the knuckle job while I’m in there anyway. I have already gotten in touch with my local cruiser club and they said they would be willing to help whenever I set up a time
 
have already gotten in touch with my local cruiser club and they said they would be willing to help whenever I set up a time
Ooh. Have them come over when you're ready to do knuckles. Have a Birf-day party.
 
It's pretty amazing to see the response from people here on the 40's section. 1-2 years ago I was doing about the exact same thing as you with about as much knowledge but with the troopy I was posting in the diesel & 70 series threads. Still got quite a bit of help but just not nearly as many people are on those threads. It's just crazy to see all the support, you guys are awesome. I have pretty much all of the tools mentioned that you need but as stated in the other thread... would only really be able to head up during Christmas break to offer you a hand, hopefully some from the cruiser club can help before I can.
 
Do y’all think 60 series calipers and discs will bolt on nicely? Do you think they will fit? If not, what brakes should I look into?

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I opted for the 60 series rotors and V-6 Four runner calipers
 
I would wait to buy rotors until you determine if they are pressed on via lugs or bolted on. There are 2 styles. Simple to figure out when you have it apart. Either rotor will accept the newer caliper mentioned above.
 
We were all newbies once. Take the hub assembly off, snap a picture of the back of the rotor and we can guide you to the correct rotor to purchase.
 
Kind of stupid question….where is the brake fluid kept?

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See those two reservoirs together on the metal rod sticking out of the large round part? Those are your front and rear brake circuit reservoirs on the brake master cylinder which is attached to the brake booster.

The other one is your clutch master cylinder.
 
See those two reservoirs together on the metal rod sticking out of the large round part? Those are your front and rear brake circuit reservoirs on the brake master cylinder which is attached to the brake booster.

The other one is your clutch master cylinder.
Is the front one for the front brakes and rear one for the rear brakes? Or is it reversed?
 
Front is for fronts etc.
 
Dude, it has been a while. Hope things are well.

Be careful with hydraulic fluid and painted surfaces. If, by chance, you suspect that the master cylinder(s) is/are leaky, treat those parts before you start to loose paint on the firewall side. Also, it probably is best for the brake booster to not get brake fluid from a leaky master cylinder.
 
So it appears I have zero front brake fluid, and I was just going to flush it out before I replaced the calipers so that I didn’t get old rust into my new brakes, but my brakes are completely dry. I think something leaked or exploded something when the brakes caught on fire. I was going to just replace the fluid by pumping the brakes and letting it go through a bottle but that doesn’t look like an option anymore. It’s pretty dark right now but there is a pool of fluid under my brake after I poured some new fluid in. I’ll investigate it more, but that’s the front brake rundown
 

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