Mine, I used an ‘older’ 90/91/92 shifter assembly
FJZ80 LS swap (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter joe riscky
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Mine, I used an ‘older’ 90/91/92 shifter assembly
- Thread starter
- #42
Nice. When I put mine in low/1st it’s past the bottom indicator.
This helps immensely. Thank you.
This just answered what would have been my next question.
Where did you get this shifter assembly? Also, did you have to modify the bracket to align the shifter in the console better due to an offset to the side caused by the t-case adapter?
Junk yard/pick n pull for the shifter assembly, don’t remember which. No other mods reqd if I remember correctly
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- #47
I used the shifter that came with my cruiser. I disassembled it and modified the shifter arm to work on the other side. I think it took a wrench and maybe a grinder..
I would love to pick your brain on the wiring--this is the part that's hinking me out the most. You modified the existing harness to fit?
This is where i am at, mostly everything else is typical swap stuff. I have a 6.0/80e i wanna stuff into mine, gotta rebuild the 6.0 first. I even have a stand alone harness, winters shifter and exhaust (will need to be modified) from my other swap i decided not to do. I need adapters and mounts, then figure out the wiring and ac, power steering and little s***. I just hate to tear down a perfectly running truck with no issues.
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- #50
Yes. I made my own stand alone harnes and married it with my factory harnes. I can do my best to answer any wiring questions you may have.
New to this forum as I just pick up my 91 my wife and I owned a 95 years ago but it was her primary car ( kid bus) now the kids are driving them selves and it time for a new project. I too am planing on a engine swap. I have a 2002 LQ4 any advice on what parts to keep I own the complete truck so before I part the rest want to make sure to maximize my dollars on this swap. The stock 4liter runs fine for now but dose have lower compression on the #6 so will be babying it along until I can collect all the parts needed for the swap.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Motor, trans, harness (strip down, re-pin reuse) and the gas pedal if DBW. Don’t forget to get the TAC module and the harness that god from it to the pedal.
Looks like I have to weave a new story for the wife.
Also suggest getting the Chevy ECU, o2 sensors and the MAF sensor from the Chevy (be sure the associated wiring is retained with your harness). They may work into the mix, depending on how your tune & IM testing come together.
From the old Toyota, pull the oil presure and water temp sensors. They’ll give outputs the respective dash gages are expecting, and again, may work into the mix down the road. From the old Toyota I’d also cut IH1 & IH2 connectors with a couple inches of pigtail wires from the engine compartment side. Having good plugs, & OEM wire colors will help in knitting the dash guages & switches, & GM harness. And finally, there is a short wiring harness that carries all the sensors on the Toyota Tcase, up the tunnel, and ends at the firewall. This harness will carry the signals necessary for the speedo, CDL, axle lockers, and other Tcase functions, again, to IH1& IH2.
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- Thread starter
- #56
Wire harness and both fuse boxes from under the hood. Keep down pipe s and o2 sensors. Keep the upper and lower rad hoses and heater hoses. Also the Mas sensor from the air box pipe.
Gas mileage is dependent a lot on what tune the engine is flashed with. My LS gets 12-16 in town. On the highway it gets really good gas mileage.
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- #58
That’s interesting. My LS 80 gets 10-12. I’m not sure what tune it has.
What size exhaust are you running?
In running a single 3" through a stock 5.7 tundra muffler.
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- #60
I’m upgrading to 3” this week. I’m single 2.5” in a long flo-pro. Muffler. I’m also going to electric fans set up instead of factory mechanical Fan.
