FJ62's Overheating. Several of us don't know why. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter CruisD64
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Hmm. Rock Auto lists the Aisin FCT017 as the replacement. I believe that's what I have, and not only does my fan rarely roar, the truck ran hotter than I would have liked last summer on an offroad excursion.
I poked around on Rock Auto. They show the FCT017 for $62ish and the FCT049 as fitment for a '91/92 Land Cruiser and it's $119. I manually searched for the 049 and found it that way.
I poked around on Rock Auto. They show the FCT017 for $62ish and the FCT049 as fitment for a '91/92 Land Cruiser and it's $119. I manually searched for the 049 and found it that way.
I have almost an identical situation. Just returned from a trip 1/2 way down Baja. I made the mistake of replacing all cooling components proactively before a similar trip last August, knowing the temps were going to be sizzling. I never had heating problems prior to replacing all the components, but with 315k on the truck, I figured it would be prudent to replace all cooling-related components. Go figure.
New Radiator (CSF) & Cap & hoses
New OEM 180 deg thermostat
New water pump
Installed back-up temp gauge w/ sensor in thermo housing
Burped system extensively
Not losing any coolant
Installed transmission temp gauge
One interesting fact is that the truck runs on the cool side going down big passes..... approx. 170/175. Going up a steep pass, coolant temp will climb to 220 and transmission fluid to 260. Truck runs cooler when in overdrive up a steep pass (RPM approx 2300) and hotter when out of overdrive (RPM approx 3100). Before my parts replacement, the temp rarely deviated from approx. 180-190.
I'm now in the process of trying to reduce variables, since I stirred them up by replacing components. With the original thermostat (one used prior to new radiator, etc.), temp is still high up hills, low going down.
Temp doesn't appear to be a problem at idle, so I'm guessing the fan clutch is good.
Attached picture shows placement of sensor for backup gauge on left of thermostat housing. I was very careful when placing this, but now I'm having second thoughts regarding whether it could be constricting travel of thermostat. Guess I could remove it and put a threaded plug in for testing.
Has anyone had issues with CSF Radiators (purchased mine from SOR)? Thinking of having OEM radiator rebuilt.
Thank you in advance for any suggestions
New Radiator (CSF) & Cap & hoses
New OEM 180 deg thermostat
New water pump
Installed back-up temp gauge w/ sensor in thermo housing
Burped system extensively
Not losing any coolant
Installed transmission temp gauge
One interesting fact is that the truck runs on the cool side going down big passes..... approx. 170/175. Going up a steep pass, coolant temp will climb to 220 and transmission fluid to 260. Truck runs cooler when in overdrive up a steep pass (RPM approx 2300) and hotter when out of overdrive (RPM approx 3100). Before my parts replacement, the temp rarely deviated from approx. 180-190.
I'm now in the process of trying to reduce variables, since I stirred them up by replacing components. With the original thermostat (one used prior to new radiator, etc.), temp is still high up hills, low going down.
Temp doesn't appear to be a problem at idle, so I'm guessing the fan clutch is good.
Attached picture shows placement of sensor for backup gauge on left of thermostat housing. I was very careful when placing this, but now I'm having second thoughts regarding whether it could be constricting travel of thermostat. Guess I could remove it and put a threaded plug in for testing.
Has anyone had issues with CSF Radiators (purchased mine from SOR)? Thinking of having OEM radiator rebuilt.
Thank you in advance for any suggestions
From what I hear they are as good as oem. Like an exact copy.
The quality and condition of the fan clutch is a big factor re cooling . It seems to make all the difference. [an audible roar cycling from quiet to roar is a good sign]
Not sure if that sensor is hindering the t-stat. That would be a problem if it is.
Also my ATF temp rarely exceeds 190F. But I ditched the radiator cooler, and run 2 big external coolers. 1 with a thermo fan.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #187
Don't assume. Mine never had an issue at idle. I bet that's your problem. I put a Mishimoto radiator in and changed the fan clutch to an aqua and I'm quite sure the fan clutch is what fixed my issue. CSF radiator's are excellent. Do you run an FCT-049 fan clutch? If not, please do so and report back.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
The one thing that seemed to make the biggest difference on my cooling system is a working fan clutch. I have the CSF and its been fine. It likely won't last as long as the OEM variety but are very reliable. I had my OEM repaired and it only lasted about a year before developing a leak. I ditched it for the CSF and no regrets. HTH.
260 is pretty warm on the transmission. Likely indicates your fan clutch isn't doing what it's supposed to be doing and the coolant isn't getting cooled effectively by the time it reaches the bottom of the radiator.
I know this is an older thread but still pertinent. yes I got a new CSF in 2018 not long after I got my 62. It started leaking at the top seam within a month. Pulled everything apart again to get that re-sealed. My truck always has "used" coolant, or so I thought. once a month (more or less) I'd top off the reservoir with maybe 1/2 qt or less. Well, just a few months ago I was underneath working on something and noticed the bottom of the radiator was covered in red goo, and upon further inspection I can see the rad is definitely leaking somewhere along the bottom, guessing at the seam. Never drops on the ground though. While I don't know for certain, my guess is that bottom leak has been there from the start. I've had it with CSF, so I'm thinking I'll go with a Ron Davis or Mishimoto when I rebuild the engine in a year or two.
Although my truck runs hot sometimes ... 235 on occasion...(here in Phoenix summers, almost unavoidable), it's never overheated. I've seen the trans light come on once however.
190 thermostat fully opens at 210. I"ve got the -049 fan clutch, but this thread now has me wondering if it could be a fake? But the fan usually comes on around 215-220 and like I said, has never actually overheated. I'm also running an auxiliary Autometer water temp gauge.
After fighting my overheating for over a year, multiple thermostats, new Ron Davis radiator, mechanical and electric fans, new fan clutch, plugs and wires, and much more... a mechanic found my Fuel Sender Wiring mostly disintegrated, located behind my right rear wheel well. After fixing that, I haven't had overheating problems since. My engine felt like it was missing before, as well, and that's also gone.
Sounds like you weren't overheating, but getting a much higher indication than what you should've gotten on the temp gauge.
Had you verified beforehand that the engine was legitimately overheating, or were you going exclusively off the gauge?
Oh yeah we did... After replacing the gauge with 3 different donors that worked correctly on other cruisers, we added a scan gauge, and took multiple laser temp measurements on the engine itself. It actually was overheating for sure.
Reading through this thread from the start, I noticed a couple of people saying that they had small cracks or head gasket troubles.
I had the same "rising temps under load" with my FJ62 - but I am in Australia, and mine has the 3F not the 3Fe - carby..... so the problem happens with a non-injected fuel system also.
In the end I took it to a shop to get what I had come to believe was a head gasket problem. The shop did a compression test, and rang me to give me the results, and confirm 100% that I wanted them to lift the head. Since I had done all the other bits mentioned on this thread (thermostat, timing etc) I confirmed that I wanted them to go ahead, even though they were suggesting that it probably won't fix the problem since there were no indications during testing.
When they lifted the head, they found definite signs of a head gasket problem.
Did all the necessary things involved, and we have not had the overheating under load problem since that time - 6 years.
Other problems, but not that any more....
These things seem a little bit strange - they can apparently compression test fine, but they are liars....
I had the same "rising temps under load" with my FJ62 - but I am in Australia, and mine has the 3F not the 3Fe - carby..... so the problem happens with a non-injected fuel system also.
In the end I took it to a shop to get what I had come to believe was a head gasket problem. The shop did a compression test, and rang me to give me the results, and confirm 100% that I wanted them to lift the head. Since I had done all the other bits mentioned on this thread (thermostat, timing etc) I confirmed that I wanted them to go ahead, even though they were suggesting that it probably won't fix the problem since there were no indications during testing.
When they lifted the head, they found definite signs of a head gasket problem.
Did all the necessary things involved, and we have not had the overheating under load problem since that time - 6 years.
Other problems, but not that any more....
These things seem a little bit strange - they can apparently compression test fine, but they are liars....
- Thread starter
- #195
OP here. Running hot is mostly under control for me. On a 100+ degree day it'll hit 220 but not 235+ like it did before. Changed the fan clutch and installed a Mishimoto radiator and things have been much better. Also, a valve adjustment did wonders. The motor runs great and I just don't think about the temps anymore. It's a nice change from constantly staring at the gauge. I run an aftermarket gauge, btw.
