FJ60 Not Idling/Running (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 27, 2019
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Location
Seattle
Hi, I'm a relative newbie to FJs (also current owner of LR4 and Vanagon...) and have been having a tough time getting my 85 FJ60 to run. It had been running very smoothly up until a few months ago (actually preferred this in the snow to the LR4) and then one day just wouldn't start easily at all. I left it sitting for a few months after it died and now have time to dig into it which I've been doing thanks to the great ideas on this forum. Here are the symptoms: Cranks well, choke on, feather the acc. pedal and eventually it fires up after quite a few cranks; immediately idles up to around 2000rpm without me touching the gas, and then just dies if I do nothing. I can catch it at the high idle point and give it more gas to keep it running (that's how I got it home a few months ago) but let off the gas and it dies immediately. I checked the Idle Control Valve wiring and it was clicking off and on when I applied and removed current. I actually hot wired both leads of the ICV direct to battery and made no difference to the condition. Fuel level in the carb at the window is right where expected (about half way) and stays there when the engine actually runs for the short period (before dying). Fuel pump is pumping OK. Checked every vacuum hose I could find and all appear to be tight (engine is desmogged). New leads, new plugs pretty recently. Took off gas cap and tried that - no change to symptoms. Ran some fuel direct into carb and this made starting much easier and idled at a normal RPM but then died as soon as it burnt through that little amount. I read in this forum somewhere that the igniter might be causing the issue but I don't understand how that could be the case if the engine will start (eventually) and run at high idle and with me giving it plenty of fuel. So, I'm thinking now that this is a blocked idle jet in the carb itself - any other ideas?
 
Fuel filter and fuel pump would be good places to start. My first thought was massive vacuum leak but if pouring fuel in makes it better then may be a flow issue.
 
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I’ll be third... filter and then pump. Pull the hose off the IN going to the pump and put it in a jar then crank. If you get fuel then reinstall and try the OUT to carb from pump... if it’s the pump don’t get cheap, replace w/ the Kyosan pump.
 
In the past I've had problems with gunk plugging the line from the fuel filter to the tank. A good shot of compressed air to the end of the hose on the tank side of the filter would clear it out (fuel cap off). Even if clearing any blockage is temporary, it'll help with your troubleshooting.
 
We recently had a member @FirstFJ60 with a clogged screen in the carb just past where the fuel line meets the carb before the needle and seat valve. It was due to old ethanol gas. It seemed to make a greenish gunk that clogged everything and turned brass bits green too inside the carb. Even the fuel was green! Not sure if you can see this screen if you remove the fuel line from the carb and look in there with a flashlight. Also if you do the fuel pump test after the pump ...do it here disc the line at the carb and crank the motor. Look for contaminated fuel in a clear jar. Water and trash will settle out to the bottom. And if it's green...well, you may have the same problem.
 
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Thanks to all for the very helpful suggestions. I had previously disconnected the fuel line at the carb and cranked the engine to monitor fuel delivery which seemed to be good (pulsed flow ~ 1 pulse per sec during cranking) and fuel was not green! There also seemed to be plenty of fuel per pulse. I guess that still doesn't mean that the fuel is getting properly into the carb itself. I'm gonna check for clogged screen at the carb (thanks for that suggestion @g-man and @FirstFJ60 - quite the story!). Then I'll check the upstream side of the fuel pump and take a closer look at the filter. Trying to get this beast running for my 16 year old who wants to do his driving test in it - he's also learning about carbs, fuel, sparks and not just minecraft... :rolleyes:. I'll report back.
 
As im no mechanic, have you tried winding out the mixture screw 1/2 turn or 1 turn and wind the speed screw out /down.
You may be drawing from the main jet.
 
I had some time to try a few of the suggestions today but I’m still not running. I disconnected fuel line from pump to tank and cranked and it was pumping fine. I then left that fuel line in a jar and disconnected the other fuel line from the pump to carb and cranked and the pump delivered fuel to both jars. Actually a little more fuel to the tank jar than the jar I had at the carb. From this I think the pump is working and the filter is ok.
When I had the fuel line off of the carb I checked to see what I could see at the carb inlet but nothing appeared green or gunked up.
I reconnected the fuel lines, poured a little fuel in the carb and the motor starts fine, and runs for about 5 secs until it has run through the little bit of fuel I threw in the carb.
I then try to start without adding any additional fuel, and it cranks and cranks until it eventually starts, with a very high idle speed and then dies after about 5 secs (this is the original problem).
Am I right in thinking that this is a carb problem? Could it be as simple as clogged jets?
Thanks.
 
Try keeping the choke off and flooring the gas pedal while you crank. Keep it floored and see if it starts faster
 
It does seem like a problem with getting fuel into the cylinders. If your float bowl has fuel in it (as seen through the window), then I would think the fuel is getting to the carburetor. Looking at the schematic below, when the car is at idle, the 1st throttle valve (#14) is mostly closed, and the gas is pulled into the engine through the needle valve (#9). But the solenoid valve (#7) must also be open.

I would pull the needle valve out and spray spray some carb cleaner into the port. I would also remove the solenoid valve and confirm the piston is moving, and spray carb cleaner in that port (leave the needle valve out for now so the entire circuit can be blasted). reinstall the solenoid valve and the needle valve. unscrew the needle valve about 2 full turns from it's seated position.

Also post up some picks. Maybe there is something else going on that isn't being described.

I'm also a little confused by your description how the fuel pump works. There are three lines on the pump: one inlet and two outlets. One outlet (the one on the side of the pump) is the supply to the carburetor. The other outlet is a return that goes back to the fuel tank. I don't think there are two fuel connections to the OEM carburetor.



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Try keeping the choke off and flooring the gas pedal while you crank. Keep it floored and see if it starts faster
I tried that just now: no difference. Motor just cranks away. Eventually I can get it to start by feathering the gas pedal rather than flooring it but then it just goes into the high idle and dies again after a few secs.
 
It does seem like a problem with getting fuel into the cylinders. If your float bowl has fuel in it (as seen through the window), then I would think the fuel is getting to the carburetor. Looking at the schematic below, when the car is at idle, the 1st throttle valve (#14) is mostly closed, and the gas is pulled into the engine through the needle valve (#9). But the solenoid valve (#7) must also be open.

I would pull the needle valve out and spray spray some carb cleaner into the port. I would also remove the solenoid valve and confirm the piston is moving, and spray carb cleaner in that port (leave the needle valve out for now so the entire circuit can be blasted). reinstall the solenoid valve and the needle valve. unscrew the needle valve about 2 full turns from it's seated position.

Also post up some picks. Maybe there is something else going on that isn't being described.

I'm also a little confused by your description how the fuel pump works. There are three lines on the pump: one inlet and two outlets. One outlet (the one on the side of the pump) is the supply to the carburetor. The other outlet is a return that goes back to the fuel tank. I don't think there are two fuel connections to the OEM carburetor.



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The carb has fuel in it (as seen in the float bowl window) and stays level as the motor is cranked. I’ll check the needle valves and get a can of carb cleaner to blast the ports etc.
Sorry for the confusion on the fuel pump description: I pulled both outlet lines off the pump, attached rubber hoses to the outlet pipes on the pump and then fed each rubber hose to a separate glass jar and then cranked the engine. Both glass jars had fuel pumping into them no probs - like a good squirt every second or so during cranking.
 
The carb has fuel in it (as seen in the float bowl window) and stays level as the motor is cranked. I’ll check the needle valves and get a can of carb cleaner to blast the ports etc.
Sorry for the confusion on the fuel pump description: I pulled both outlet lines off the pump, attached rubber hoses to the outlet pipes on the pump and then fed each rubber hose to a separate glass jar and then cranked the engine. Both glass jars had fuel pumping into them no probs - like a good squirt every second or so during cranking.
Just wanted to add that I’ve just checked the operation of the solenoid valve and it’s working fine; I sprayed some carb cleaner in the port for the solenoid valve while I had it out and will work on the needle valve next. Also, I can keep the engine running but only if I keep a heavy foot on the gas and keep the RPMs above around 2000: does this point more toward the needle valve and idle circuit in the carb?
 
Have you taken the carb off and examined the condition? How it looks, if there are any clogs, residue? It takes about 15 minutes to take the carb off.
 
Have you taken the carb off and examined the condition? How it looks, if there are any clogs, residue? It takes about 15 minutes to take the carb off.
Thanks @FirstFJ60: after I check the needle valve operation and port, if things still don’t work then the carb is coming off. The PO had rebuilt the carb a few years ago: maybe it needs done again. Still, I’d like to logically figure out the likely source of the problem so that I can pinpoint my repair efforts.
 
Your needle and seat are working if you are keeping the fuel 1/2 up in the sight glass. The float lifts the needle valve up when the fuel in the bowl lowers, this lets the fuel pump push more fuel into the bowl. Your problem is between the throttle valves and the jets. I'd pull the carb and check the jets and rebuild the carb. Pull anything off that would have a gasket or o ring and soak it in carb cleaner over night to clear any passages. then blow them out with compressed air and put it back together.

I guess it's possible to do a redneck cleaning or clearing of the jets by taking the plugs out of the lower front of the carb bowl (while still on the truck) then running a screwdriver in there and pulling the jets one at a time and cleaning them. It's probably going to be more difficult than off the truck. I'm sure someone will chime in if they have done this.
 
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You needle and seat are working if you are keeping the fuel 1/2 up in the sight glass. The float lifts the needle valve up when the fuel in the bowl lowers, this lets the fuel pump push more fuel into the bowl. Your problem is between the throttle valves and the jets. I'd pull the carb and check the jets and rebuild the carb. Pull anything off that would have a gasket or o ring and soak it in carb cleaner over night to clear any passages. then blow them out with compressed air and put it back together.

I guess it's possible to do a redneck cleaning or clearing of the jets by taking the plugs out of the lower front of the carb bowl (while still on the truck) then running a screwdriver in there and pulling the jets one at a time and cleaning them. It's probably going to be more difficult than off the truck. I'm sure someone will chime in if they have done this.

the needle valve referenced above (at least by me) is the idle mixture screw. Sorry for the confusion.
 

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