FJ60 fuel cut off solenoid

[1987lando]

Done enough research and believe I have isolated my problem to the fuel cut off solenoid….do these work sporadically before failing?
My 2F engine runs fine for days….then occasionally will give me all signs of a malfunction fuel cut off solenoid (will not idle, cuts-out while driving, and will not shut off when key is turned off). Then randomly the issue goes away for days. I can take a several hour trip, short trips, all with no issue….then the issue will flair up. Carb has been rebuilt recently and has approx 2k miles since before this problem started.

wiring looks good with visual inspection, and fuel cut off solenoid ‘clicks’ as it should when power is applied.

not sure if I should just replace as my first step?

 

[3_puppies]

easy way is to check for power when the symptom arises.
or
if there is an audible click with key on and disconnect the plug

 

[1987lando]

easy way is to check for power when the symptom arises.
or
if there is an audible click with key on and disconnect the plug

Yes. There is an audible click with the key on and the plug is disconnected. I wasn’t sure if these can work intermittently before they finally go? Or if I should look elsewhere for my issue.?

 

[OSS]

Your symptoms described do point to a malfunctioning fuel cut solenoid.
Maybe the electrical connection in the plug ain’t so good and intermittently it breaks contact.
If you can find one — I’d replace it. It’s 40 years old.

 

[fjc-man]

The emissions control unit (relay) controls the ground (2 wire) side of the solenoid, a known problem area for solenoid operation. @Engineer8000 rebuilds and tests these relays. Send yours to him or buy a rebuilt from him.

 

[Pighead]

I just disabled my fuel cut-off solenoid. Don't have to worry about it anymore

 

[Spike Strip]

With Key On/ Engine off (power to the ICS) tap the halves of the ICS connectors together and you should hear clicking from the solenoid. If not, it's bad or the Emissions computer (more likely) is malfunctioning.

Solutions are to either replace the ICS (if bad - test by putting 12v directly to the solenoid), or bypass the Emissions Computer by grounding the white wire off the solenoid to the body of the carb. This will defeat your deceleration circuit, but truck with otherwise run normally.

If Emissions Computer is faulty, and you want to stay stock or have to for smog reasons, @Engineer8000 repairs them.

 

[mattressking]

Please don't cut the solenoid and ground. I'm tired of seeing that hack job on carbs, sure its fine as a last minute fix with zero options, but the oem solenoids don't fail super often. Get the emissions computer reflowed first, usually that is the issue.

If that isn't it, test the solenoid and verify it clicks reliably. Usually the computer is at fault.

 

[JoeW]

Speaking of these solenoids, does anyone have a spare intermediate harness that goes between the ICS and the harness on the fender. Somewhere in my 60's life, someone just put 2 wires with spade connectors on it and I'd like a less homebrew solution. Or where can I get the connectors/ pins for either side and I'll make my own.

Thanks

 

[Spike Strip]

No sub-harness for that section. @ToyotaMatt has the plastic connectors and spades.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Done enough research and believe I have isolated my problem to the fuel cut off solenoid….do these work sporadically before failing?
My 2F engine runs fine for days….then occasionally will give me all signs of a malfunction fuel cut off solenoid (will not idle, cuts-out while driving, and will not shut off when key is turned off). Then randomly the issue goes away for days. I can take a several hour trip, short trips, all with no issue….then the issue will flair up. Carb has been rebuilt recently and has approx 2k miles since before this problem started.

wiring looks good with visual inspection, and fuel cut off solenoid ‘clicks’ as it should when power is applied.

not sure if I should just replace as my first step?

easy way is to check for power when the symptom arises.
or
if there is an audible click with key on and disconnect the plug

Your symptoms described do point to a malfunctioning fuel cut solenoid.
Maybe the electrical connection in the plug ain’t so good and intermittently it breaks contact.
If you can find one — I’d replace it. It’s 40 years old.

I just disabled my fuel cut-off solenoid. Don't have to worry about it anymore

Speaking of these solenoids, does anyone have a spare intermediate harness that goes between the ICS and the harness on the fender. Somewhere in my 60's life, someone just put 2 wires with spade connectors on it and I'd like a less homebrew solution. Or where can I get the connectors/ pins for either side and I'll make my own.

Thanks

a few years ago ..........


i wondered why nobody on planet earth offered a 2-wire ICS / FCS for the 2F FJ40 FJ55 & FJ60 ?


you know the proper one , 2 wires , the square 2-pin OEM YAZAKI splash-proof Factory Green Connector Plugs and all ..........the Real McCoy ?


well , i decided to go for it and done got it going on , the ODD square 2 pin connectors female and male i had reproduced in JAPAN , the ISC / FCS is a MADE IN JAPAN aftermarket part ....


- all in all its totally TOP SHELF , al long as you make sure to lube up that tiny O-RING with some Di-Electric Grease .......

- so 21062-61060 was re-born and up to snuff too !

- i include the harness side female Connector plug and generous amounts ob the correct black w/ yellow tracer stripe 16ga wire and ground White w/ black tracer stripe , includes a OEM crush ring washer too ! PLUG and Play the TEq way




.

21062-61060 Next Generation Idle / Fuel Cut Solenoid FCS ICS Dual Wire 2 Wire w/ Correct TOYOTA LAND CRUISER Factory Profile Type OEM Electrical Connector Fits ALL 2F Engine Carburetors 1/75-9/87 ( This is a COMPLETE Install / Restore KIT ) - Vintag

21062-61060 - Next Generation Idle / Fuel Cut Solenoid FCS ICS - Dual Wire 2 Wire w/ Correct TOYOTA LAND CRUISER...

vintageteqparts.com

.

 

[Paullus]

What happened with mine was that the fusible link over by the battery that protected the circuit that the FCS was on was almost burnt through and just hanging on by a couple of wires. So maybe check that!

 

[lt1823]

Please don't cut the solenoid and ground. I'm tired of seeing that hack job on carbs, sure its fine as a last minute fix with zero options, but the oem solenoids don't fail super often. Get the emissions computer reflowed first, usually that is the issue.

If that isn't it, test the solenoid and verify it clicks reliably. Usually the computer is at fault.

Just out of curiosity, why do some people cut one of the solenoid wires and ground it to the carb? Thanks!

 

[Spike Strip]

Just out of curiosity, why do some people cut one of the solenoid wires and ground it to the carb? Thanks!

It bypasses the emissions computer, but also defeats the deceleration function which helps with backfire and afterburn.

 

[mattressking]

Just out of curiosity, why do some people cut one of the solenoid wires and ground it to the carb? Thanks!

Half-ass/lazy way to bypass the computer like Alf said. The two wires that are the correct length are NLA, don't chop it and fix it the right way.

 

[lt1823]

It bypasses the emissions computer, but also defeats the deceleration function which helps with backfire and afterburn.

Thanks for your reply. They also left out the dizzy side VCV. Could this be some of my stumbling/stalling issues?

 

[Spike Strip]

If you're asking about the VCV under the pass side of the Air Cleaner, that's there to control fresh air draw through the Distributor, under various engine parameters. You want that hooked up to keep the guts of the distributor from turning into this:

 

[lt1823]

If you're asking about the VCV under the pass side of the Air Cleaner, that's there to control fresh air draw through the Distributor, under various engine parameters. You want that hooked up to keep the guts of the distributor from turning into this:

View attachment 3940772

Ahh roger, thanks for posting that. So while the ICS and VCV need to be replaced, they are likely not the cause of my stumbling/stalling/hesitation?

 

[Spike Strip]

Unlikely. When ICS is not working (for whatever reason) , truck won't idle, but otherwise seems to run ok above idle. It's an anti dieseling device.

Stumble, hesitation, stall can be a whole bunch of things that's anybody's guess since the desmog may have been done badly. Could be a carb rebuild is needed?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Ahh roger, thanks for posting that. So while the ICS and VCV need to be replaced, they are likely not the cause of my stumbling/stalling/hesitation?

Unlikely. When ICS is not working (for whatever reason) , truck won't idle, but otherwise seems to run ok above idle. It's an anti dieseling device.

Stumble, hesitation, stall can be a whole bunch of things that's anybody's guess since the desmog may have been done badly. Could be a carb rebuild is needed?

Your 2F BIG CAP 19100- has 2 vacuum hoses on the side double diaphragm actuators .

You need a hand held quality grade auto zone hand pump vacuum tester ,

With the engine OFF

Pull off 1 hose at a time and pump the tester handles , to burry the needle ,

It should hold that vacuum Hg. in theory indefinitely ..,

But let’s say if the NEG VAC stays the like a solid minuet or 2 that internal 40+ year old membrane of JIS EPDM is in good working order ..,

Repeat the same exact confirm and
Verify step by step on the other port

Do not mix up the 2 hoses …

If BOTH hold vacuum cross that OFF your list of possible causes ..

If one or both leak down …?


You have diagnosed your bad part and cause ,,

Or

One of maybe more …?


If your engine timing was set with a bad internal ruptured diaphragm ?


Then this a compounding you bad running issues bug time …


I will now pass the Chair to his Excellency : @Spike Strip

He is long-time lifetime MUD SMOG CZAR …

He can advise you about a bad double diaphragm rupture , with 1 of his dozens of NOS ones original yellow zinc gold plated .

& later Violet Blue Silver OEM update ones and the thicker JIS OEM EPDM

- the most crucial part ( PACKING ) seal between cap and main aluminum 19100- body

- the in place and work working correct 1 way fresh dry filtered air flow to keep
The final revised Fully Transistorized NipponDenso Dry and Happy for life …

- the O-ring on the round part and the E-CLIPS in stainless steel he had made just because he is the MUD SMOG CZAR …

Thank you CZAR …of all things SMOG…



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