red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Yeah mine doesn't really cycle when its hot out, but if I run the AC when its cold out it will cycle to prevent the evap from freezing.
FJ60 A/C problems need advice!!
- Thread starter jpeterson
- Start date
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That makes sense. Thanks
Ok, I am having the same problem...my AC blows cold. Was running around the loop the other day and had been driving for a while with it on high and it just stopped. I pulled over and checked he fuse and it looked good. When I got home I replaced the 30amp breaker and it started working again. That was last weekend. I was driving today and I left the gym and put the AC on high. I was only about a mile down the road when it stopped. A few questions:
1. I am sure if I replace that 30am breaker that it will start again,, but those are $10 a pop. Is that breaker bad after my AC stops like a normal fuse??
2. if the answer is no, please explain.
3. any other ideas about what I might need to try? Cant drive around in Texas without the AC on high.
Pic for grins. I ran to the dealer today and had them run my VIN for recalls. The fuel tank was never replaced from a 1991 recall and they are ordering all the parts to swap it out. Crazy how they will still fix something on an 34 year old truck from a 27 year old recall. Fixing a problem with a seatbelt in the back too....
1. I am sure if I replace that 30am breaker that it will start again,, but those are $10 a pop. Is that breaker bad after my AC stops like a normal fuse??
2. if the answer is no, please explain.
3. any other ideas about what I might need to try? Cant drive around in Texas without the AC on high.
Pic for grins. I ran to the dealer today and had them run my VIN for recalls. The fuel tank was never replaced from a 1991 recall and they are ordering all the parts to swap it out. Crazy how they will still fix something on an 34 year old truck from a 27 year old recall. Fixing a problem with a seatbelt in the back too....
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
So after reading all the AC problem threads I could when dealing with my issue 99% of the time the issue is the blower motor is old and pulling too many amps or the breaker is the issue. Either the breaker is old and needs to be replaced or in my case, I think it had a poor connection which as causing resistance and heat which made it trip. Check both of those out.
I appreciate you sharing. I saw your other post and it looks like you really did a lot to rule things out. Couple questions-
1. how did you make the connection better as it related to your CB?
2. Do you know if there is a thread on how to access and clean the blower motor?
Mine, like others, has only tripped the CB when I am on high. I figured out how to trip it back, but would love to find the magic fix so I can use high with confidence.
g-man
SILVER Star
You don't have to replace the CB. Pull it out. Use a finishing nail and push in the small hole in it. You should feel or here a click. It will reset. I replaced my CB and the new one did the same thing. Tripped while the A/C and fan on high.
It's either the blower motor is worn and drawing too many amps or a combination of that plus worn wires and or poor grounds. Possibly the resistance wire behind the "high" setting on the fan switch is worn too.
I will take some pics of my "work around" wiring.
It's either the blower motor is worn and drawing too many amps or a combination of that plus worn wires and or poor grounds. Possibly the resistance wire behind the "high" setting on the fan switch is worn too.
I will take some pics of my "work around" wiring.
g-man
SILVER Star
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
I have tested everything at this point. The resistance of wires, ground connections, amp draw of each component and replaced the terminal on the motor. The only thing that logically stopped the tripping in my case was the CB terminal fiddling. I didn't intentionally alter the terminal, I was trying to get it out of the block. I inserted a small wire under the terminal to release the pin holding it in and I ending up bending the terminal a little. So now when putting the CB in I can really feel it bite. In your case, maybe just clean the terminals and the CB pins and check out your motor.
To take out the motor, just unplug it, unscrew the three screws holding it in and then it should just drop down. Most original motors at this point are getting long in the tooth and could probably use new brushes or replacement as a whole.
Cool, thanks. Always a fun weekend project on this thing. May live with just three setting until I get my H55. Wondering if that motor is still available OEM....I am sure aftermarket ones are readily available. I will poke around.
fix...bypass the CB with an inline 30a fuse...thanks g-man for solution. Love this forum.
Ok so I am still at this because I am a nut job like that. I installed the amp meter just after the breaker. However, I also installed another new breaker, replaced the relay for the rear heater circuit (because i was seeing a 1 amp draw when it wasnt on) and repositioned the temp sensing tube on the expansion valve (I think it was touching the incoming refrigerant line which would throw off the cycling).......
So once I installed the amp meter I went to work measuring the system and what everything draws. The heater blower on high draws 12-13 and the ac system draws 3-4 amps. Recirc setting makes the motor pull one more amp. I never saw the system take up more than 16-17 amps and it also stopped tripping! I ran it for over 40min and it never tripped! So awesome and frustrating and here is why:
I thought maybe it was because I installed another new breaker... so I swapped in the old-new one again.... still didn't trip. huh..
It wouldn't have to do with the tube repositioning because that has to do with cycling, not how much the compressor clutch pulls.....
So it can be one of two things: it was the swap of the rear heater relay. I swapped the old one back in and will test it tomorrow.. Or its the fact that the terminals that hold the breaker are now much tighter fitting. In my attempts to get the terminals out of the fuse block so I could slip the ring-based amp meter over the wire I bent them a little and now they really grab onto the breaker electrical contacts.
The tighter fitting terminals could have made a difference.. better electrical contact would mean less resistance and heat to trip the breaker. If swapping in the old rear relay doesn't make the breaker trip then I am going to conclude it was a poor connection between the breaker and the terminals and just be happy it works now..... for now.
Okay so - you're saying that the contact points on the breaker (the silver faced plug with the hole for the reset button" were made tighter?
Also - what is the tube you are referencing?
I have replaced the blower motor (both OEM used and brand new aftermarket), the relay coils, and the circuit breaker. What's my next step here?
Also - this might be some dumb insight, but the breaker is tripped by heat, and not necessarily amperage - which is why the fuse doesn't blow but the breaker trips, correct? do you think moving that tube changed anything?
Has anyone else figured this out?
Thanks!
With the breaker being tripped by heat, are you worried of overheating the wires leading into the breaker? Are you still running this solution with no issues?
Has anyone tried pulling the fuse panel and redoing the wiring / contact points font and back to see if that's the issue? Seems like one of us had luck with simply making the contact points "tighter".... hmmmm
I cleaned and "tightened" but had the same issue with A/C on. For the last bit of last summer I used the method @John Staton mentions above with good results. On long trips I do periodically check the wires temperature.
This winter I've had the CB back in place.
This winter I've had the CB back in place.
Been running this bypass with an inline 30A fuse since September with no issue and I used high a lot. My system is blowing very cold so usually dont have to use high for too long but I can tell you that it would of definitely tripped before I put this in. Since it has the 30A fuse in it I am not worried about the wires heating up as the fuse would blow before they heated up enough to cause any problems, but I did check it when I first did this and no signs of heat. If you want to PM me I can send you one....When I ordered them I ordered a 5 pack and I have extra.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
So I measured the amp draw of everything in the AC system as well as the total amp draw for the system. Could never get anything above mid teens as far as amps but the CB would pop. Even a new one would pop. It was only after I tried to extract the terminal from the fuse block did the CB stop popping. I wasn't able to get the terminal out but in the process I accidentally bent it and it really grabbed onto the CB much tighter. I am guessing there was some corrosion or a loose connection causing resistance and heat to pop the CB. We will see if I have any issues this season but I am confident there wont be any.
Greeting all,
After I reset my CB, I am having a problem with the 10 amp AC fuse blowing as soon as I press the blue AC button in. Has anyone had this problem?
What was the cause?
Thanks guys!
After I reset my CB, I am having a problem with the 10 amp AC fuse blowing as soon as I press the blue AC button in. Has anyone had this problem?
What was the cause?
Thanks guys!
Possibly a shorted coil in the compressor clutch. Test by unplugging the wire to the compressor and see if the fuse continues to blow.
