FJ55 Dual Battery Tray

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Nice 55! Is that a late 60’s model? Don’t think many of them came with that plate.

I ran an auxiliary battery for many years on a tray I built that bolted up to some of the factory bolt holes on the driver side. The biggest problem is that the inner fender doesn’t have quite the same shape on the driver side which causes the battery to sit up a little higher. Wasn’t able to run a factory size battery, and had to find a battery with smaller dimensions to fit.

Later on I was thinking about installing a factory battery tray in that area. Removed the horn mounting bracket, and was devising a lower mount to give support on the bottom side. You can see the front part of the tray where it would bolt to the inner fender stuck out above the flange where the upper fender bolts to the inner fender and where the hood rests. It was questionable whether there would be enough clearance for the battery.

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Nice 55! Is that a late 60’s model? Don’t think many of them came with that plate.

I ran an auxiliary battery for many years on a tray I built that bolted up to some of the factory bolt holes on the driver side. The biggest problem is that the inner fender doesn’t have quite the same shape on the driver side which causes the battery to sit up a little higher. Wasn’t able to run a factory size battery, and had to find a battery with smaller dimensions to fit.
Thanks! This is helpful and I'll need to take a closer look and do some measurements. Yes, it's a 1969.
 
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Mine was done by po but running dual batteries.Dont mind the rats nest of wiring but in the second picture you can see the fender has had some minor hammer work to fit in the tray. She’s no where close to stock so that’s not a concern of mine. Horns were moved to i front of radiator.

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Having just stripped both fender wells inside the engine bay clean, I would do like Bob and put them together on the passenger side. I think there is plenty of room there and I don't think you would need any extra attachment points. The stock batter tray (at least in my '77) is held by two bolts on the fender well and one underneath which goes into a support bracket. I would just build a wider tray and add a second battery. Bob turned his sideways but I think you could keep the stock battery orientation and just add one beside it. Would probably help with wiring to rotate the second one 180 degrees like Bob did.

Edit: Maybe it's 4 bolts on the fender well and 1 underneath. Confirmed; 4 bolts.

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Found this old thread and had a question. Has anyone installed a second battery on the flat plate on the driveside just in front of the aircleaner intake. If so, got any pictures and advice? The old plowpig55 needs some more juice. Thanks!

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What about an alternator upgrade + the biggest AGM you can fit in there?
That might be simpler at the end of the day...
 
What about an alternator upgrade + the biggest AGM you can fit in there?
That might be simpler at the end of the day...
I like this.

KISS....

The point of all this is the plow (50 year old 12 DC motor), 3 year old small battery, 50 year old starter and wiring, zero degree morning (rebuilt head and carb) have resulted in it not wanting to start and I end up killing the battery so I have to jump it. For over 12 years and before rebuilding the head this summer, this thing cranked and started like a new fuel injected truck no matter how cold it was. I suspect that a larger battery, a new starter and some cleaning up the wires will make a world of deference.

Since I have a double setup on my 60 I immediately jumped to that idea so thanks for all the suggestions and input!
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I like this.

KISS....

The point of all this is the plow (50 year old 12 DC motor), 3 year old small battery, 50 year old starter and wiring, zero degree morning (rebuilt head and carb) have resulted in it not wanting to start and I end up killing the battery so I have to jump it. For over 12 years and before rebuilding the head this summer, this thing cranked and started like a new fuel injected truck no matter how cold it was. I suspect that a larger battery, a new starter and some cleaning up the wires will make a world of deference.

Since I have a double setup on my 60 I immediately jumped to that idea so thanks for all the suggestions and input!
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Yes sir! Clean those wires, maybe some new wiring and/or connections.
You should be able to fit a 60 (or maybe even a 62) series alternator in there, ditch the external regulator.
Then you might want a bigger conductor for the new alternator output.
 
@bobm where did you get those nice battery lugs on your optima’s you posted above?
Those are for car audio.

They're not what I'd use, because the copper wire doesn't get a seal to seal out moisture and the cable itself will soon corrode internally.
Id use the military style ends with copper eyelet lugs soldered, crimped, and heat shrunk with the heartshrink tubing that seals out moisture.
It may not look as trick, but when you need your truck to start, it will.
 
Those are for car audio.

They're not what I'd use, because the copper wire doesn't get a seal to seal out moisture and the cable itself will soon corrode internally.
Id use the military style ends with copper eyelet lugs soldered, crimped, and heat shrunk with the heartshrink tubing that seals out moisture.
It may not look as trick, but when you need your truck to start, it will.
I do like the idea of solder, crimp, heat shrink.

Do you have a preferred supply for new replacement battery clamps? I would like to replace the ones on my 40 and 55.
 
I do like the idea of solder, crimp, heat shrink.

Do you have a preferred supply for new replacement battery clamps? I would like to replace the ones on my 40 and 55.
I buy military surplus battery cable ends for $1.75 per terminal in 10 packs.
Trouble is, you order positives from one supplier and negative from another in order to get matched sets. They do however fit correctly.
Napa auto parts in town sells "universal fit" cables that do not fit either terminal correctly. They do not offer positives and negatives, but they'll sell you a "universal fit" cable in black or red, to the delight of every alternator rebuilder everywhere...
When you ask them about ordering a positive cable they give you this look like you're from mars...
So I make my own...
 
I buy military surplus battery cable ends for $1.75 per terminal in 10 packs.
Trouble is, you order positives from one supplier and negative from another in order to get matched sets. They do however fit correctly.
Napa auto parts in town sells "universal fit" cables that do not fit either terminal correctly. They do not offer positives and negatives, but they'll sell you a "universal fit" cable in black or red, to the delight of every alternator rebuilder everywhere...
When you ask them about ordering a positive cable they give you this look like you're from mars...
So I make my own...
If you can pass on links to your preferred vendor, I would appreciate it!
 

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