FJ45 LWB Cracked Frame Repair Advice Needed

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Joined
Oct 13, 2013
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Location
Vancouver BC
Hello everyone,

The frame on my 1977 FJ45 LWB is seriously cracked on both sides. I need some advice on how to deal with this. Can this damage be repaired or is it necessary to try to find a another frame?

If anyone has had a similar experience I would be pleased to hear what you did.
fj45_lwb_1977_left_2.webp
fj45_lwb_1977_right_2.webp
fj45_lwb_1977.webp
 
Weld it, reinforce with plate, and enjoy your 45... :D

I'd prep it and have a ticketed welder weld it.
 
Times two what bikersmurf said....do it right and it will last forever
 
That first one is going to be tough to fix because of the body mount bracket being in the way for a scab plate to be welded over the crack.
The second one is much easier since there is more surface area.
You may be hard pressed to find a skilled welder who will touch that without wanting the frame removed from the body so the job can be done properly and even at that any credible welder will shy away from doing a job on a frame with a cracks like that ( it is doable ) but alot of work to do correct.
Check with EBI he had a frame awhile back.
 
Here is my take on your frame, it will be a timely proposition. I see you needing to glove the inside of the frame with 1/4' plate that concourses the full inside shape of the frame. As expressed above not many welders would do this because of the area of the cracks. You might want to see if a frame is available for sale it may be cheaper and less time involved.
GOOD LUCK
 
I'd like to see video of the 'Dukes of Hazzard' launch required to break an un-rusted frame in that manner. Care to share how it broke, if you know?

My FJ45 frame ('65) was cracked at the steering box, and bent elsewhere, so I know a little of this.
 
SteveH said:
I'd like to see video of the 'Dukes of Hazzard' launch required to break an un-rusted frame in that manner. Care to share how it broke, if you know?

My FJ45 frame ('65) was cracked at the steering box, and bent elsewhere, so I know a little of this.

Looks like a central American rig-my guess would be numerous 5,000 lb loads over rutted roads.
 
Crushers repaired a rusted frame by splicing in parts of another frame. Starts here, https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/601818-bj42-refurbisment-2.html, Post #28, but the real work starts here, https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/601818-bj42-refurbisment-4.html, Post #68.

He has pics of one of the older FSM's that gives the details on how to repair a frame. Mr. Toyota expected owners to do everything!

Anyway, I agree with the concensus that it can be fixed, but more than likely have to take the body off.
 
I'd like to see video of the 'Dukes of Hazzard' launch required to break an un-rusted frame in that manner. Care to share how it broke, if you know?

I'm the 3rd owner. I have driven it only to work on city roads for past 15 years. Each year it has to pass an emissions inspection so it is up on a hoist to inspect exhaust system at least once a year for the inspection. During this last year's inspection the two cracks were caught. They were never noticed on the previous 13 inspections. Also, the cracks are visible when you bend down to check tire pressure. Where these cracks came from is a mystery. I do not understand why I never noticed. It has 77000 miles on the odometer.
 
Anyway, I agree with the concensus that it can be fixed, but more than likely have to take the body off.

I received eight good replies to this query in less than 24 hours. As you say, the opinion is that it can be fixed but it may not be easy. Success or failure depends a lot I guess in finding the right shop/person to do the work.
 
yeah as the above posts that's pretty straight forward plate up and repair job other than a bit of mucking around with the body mount, I had an old rusted out lwb landrover frame cut off behind the cab and another frame welded on and plated up that ended up outlasting the life of the truck and I've had a few mates that have cut the middle out of lwb frames to make mwb frames. What I would do before I committed to repairing it though would be to have a good look at the frame condition to make sure its worth repairing if its rotten with rust you'll probably spend the rest of your life chasing and repairing endless cracks :doh:
 
I would be finding a new chassis but thats easy for us Australians to say because their laying around in paddocks. It looks like a tough job with a complete strip down needed for a decent repair. I would talk to a metal fabrication shop to plate both rails inside and out to keep her on the road for a couple years while you track down a half decent chassis to be cleaned and painted before the swap.
 
Looking at it again, how much metal is left? When zoomed in, it looks thin... With other less noticeable cracks.

Rust may be the cause of this failure...:eek: if so, the repair will be more expensive, and replacement a more viable option.
 
Hi Mate
I was just wondering if and how you solved this. I have exactly the same problem with a 1982 HJ47 troopy. Purchased it a few years ago and didn't realize it had small tracks of rust on the chassis under the cab on both sides, until it cracked almost through. I've been told by my mechanic that it's the end of the road - but the rest of the car is actually in pretty good condition. Writing the car off is just not an option, but I was just wondering how much effort it was to repair and how did you go about it. Were you able to get someone to weld it without taking the body off, or did you have to strip the whole thing down?
Thanks in advance.
Pete
 
Hi Mate
I was just wondering if and how you solved this. I have exactly the same problem with a 1982 HJ47 troopy. Purchased it a few years ago and didn't
realize it had small tracks of rust on the chassis under the cab on both sides, until it cracked almost through. I've been told by my mechanic that it's the end of the road - but the rest of the car is actually in pretty good condition. Writing the car off is just not an option, but I was just wondering how much effort it was to repair and how did you go about it. Were you able to get someone to weld it without taking the body off, or did you have to strip the whole thing down?
Thanks in advance.
Pete

Check the link @DSRTRDR provided in post# 4, above.
 
Definitely looks like rust caused the weakness. If you look closely, the cracks begin on frame bottom , obviously where highest stress is. Looks like water, salt , whatever, congealed inside the frame creating rust , rust , and rust. Metal gets thin , weak , and stress can crack the thinner metal. Inside frames are the least tended to because of the difficulty to get to easily. If this vehicle was in Canada all of its life, the inside frame probably is rust/pitted all over , however, the cracks are at the highest stress points. If you want to keep the frame it may well be a good idea to fix the cracks and completely tend to the inside to keep rust at bay. I know of people in rust prone areas to use this, and it works.

Eastwood Internal Frame Anti-Rust Coating, 14 oz. Spray
 
I'd inspect the frame inside and out for other flaws and then make the call. Either way the cab's gotta come off. So get ready for that. But can be done, sure. A good repair will outlast the truck.
 

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