Fj40 V8 clutch stuck (1 Viewer)

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Feb 1, 2015
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My 72 ( never ran in years) has a 350, 4 speed ( early chevy car trans) I have rigged clutch hydraulics, properly bled, with Toyota slave. Clutch stops hard about 1/3 to floor, clutch arm is moving about an inch. Now what? I know oem 40s well, but not US clutch)trans. Ideas? Afraid to really force it.
 
Maybe the disk has bonded itself to the plate and is actually disengaged, but badly adjusted?
Get someone to push the clutch while you rock it back and forwards to free the clutch (or spin with the starter if you're brave).
 
Maybe the disk has bonded itself to the plate and is actually disengaged, but badly adjusted?
Get someone to push the clutch while you rock it back and forwards to free the clutch (or spin with the starter if you're brave).
take off the coil wire...then it wont start, can be braver that way
 
I just dealt with the same problem with my 350 SBC powered 73 Fj40 Land Cruiser that had sat for four years. Once I got the adjutments right at the pedal and the clutch arm I jacked up the rear wheels off the ground and put it in two wheel drive. I put it in gear and started the motor after having previously warming it up. I then put in the clutch while I feathered the brakes lightly and then a little harder. until the clutch broke itself loose from the flywheel. You don't want to have anything directly in front of you and be prepared to kill the motor if need be. Mine came free with little drama as I carefully supported the rear wheels while blocking up the front so the vehicle couldn't roll forward. Last tip don't overheat your brakes but in most cases unless the clutch has really welded itself to the fly wheel that shouldn't be a problem.
 
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if a helper is available,
have them step on the clutch pedal and go underneath with a prybar and see if it frees up
 
if a helper is available,
have them step on the clutch pedal and go underneath with a prybar and see if it frees up
Agreed. Much better diagnosis with two people.
 
1/3 down & hard stop, rust on the trans snout or the pressure plate is rusted in position. If the disc is stuck to flywheel it would still depress all the way.
 
1/3 down & hard stop, rust on the trans snout or the pressure plate is rusted in position. If the disc is stuck to flywheel it would still depress all the way.
Possible. I’ve also seen my share of mismatched components (PP profile, TO bearing profile) where the fork is literally hitting the side of the bellhousing: hard stop. 🤔

That’s why two people will get to the bottom of this the fastest.😉
 
I just dealt with the same problem with my 350 SBC powered 73 Fj40 Land Cruiser that had sat for four years. Once I got the adjutments right at the pedal and the clutch arm I jacked up the rear wheels off the ground and put it in two wheel drive. I put it in gear and started the motor after having previously warming it up. I then put in the clutch while I feathered the brakes lightly and then a little harder. until the clutch broke itself loose from the flywheel. You don't want to have anything directly in front of you and be prepared to kill the motor if need be. Mine came free with little drama as I carefully supported the rear wheels while blocking up the front so the vehicle couldn't roll forward. Last tip don't overheat your brakes but in most cases unless the clutch has really welded itself to the fly wheel that shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks, ill have to change my order, not running yet!
 

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