Fj40 Tail gate (1 Viewer)

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I installed 8mm riv-nuts after squaring up my tailgate and creating an even gap on bottom and sides. Using the original lower three hinges after flattening out the slight bend they had originally. On later models the OEM tailgate will fit inside the side supports unlike the original sitting overlapped with rear opening sides and bottom. Riv-nuts do barely protrude above skin,1/16" or so but with a 1/16" rubber spacer makes it fit perfect. I use thin rubber on all contact points to avoid paint on paint rubbing. I went to the wrecking yard and found nice weatherstripping to go around the tailgate to close the gaps and stop the rattles. it takes some trial and error on fitting the weather strip.
-Bruce

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Not sure why you have to flatten the original hinges when a spacer on the tailgate size would do the trick. Thickness of the spacer would be the depth of the notch in the back minus slightly less than the thickness of the weatherstripping used so it seals tight. Same would apply to the latches on the sides. Not sure about shoulder bolts for the chains on the side. They might need be set in slightly to clear the tailgate now is flush with the back. Would also be sure to reinforce the shoulder bolts. A lot more weight can be apply verse swinging doors. Couple seat on the end of the tailgate with have a lot of leverage working against the shoulder bolts.
 
I installed 8mm riv-nuts after squaring up my tailgate and creating an even gap on bottom and sides. Using the original lower three hinges after flattening out the slight bend they had originally. On later models the OEM tailgate will fit inside the side supports unlike the original sitting overlapped with rear opening sides and bottom. Riv-nuts do barely protrude above skin,1/16" or so but with a 1/16" rubber spacer makes it fit perfect. I use thin rubber on all contact points to avoid paint on paint rubbing. I went to the wrecking yard and found nice weatherstripping to go around the tailgate to close the gaps and stop the rattles. it takes some trial and error on fitting the weather strip.
-Bruce

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That is a great color, nice work!
 
I installed 8mm riv-nuts after squaring up my tailgate and creating an even gap on bottom and sides. Using the original lower three hinges after flattening out the slight bend they had originally. On later models the OEM tailgate will fit inside the side supports unlike the original sitting overlapped with rear opening sides and bottom. Riv-nuts do barely protrude above skin,1/16" or so but with a 1/16" rubber spacer makes it fit perfect. I use thin rubber on all contact points to avoid paint on paint rubbing. I went to the wrecking yard and found nice weatherstripping to go around the tailgate to close the gaps and stop the rattles. it takes some trial and error on fitting the weather strip.
-Bruce

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That turned out super nice!
 
Is that a foldable metal chock you have in that last picture? I have been wanting something like that for both my 100 and my 40. Can you share you likes/dislikes about those?
 
Not sure why you have to flatten the original hinges when a spacer on the tailgate size would do the trick. Thickness of the spacer would be the depth of the notch in the back minus slightly less than the thickness of the weatherstripping used so it seals tight. Same would apply to the latches on the sides. Not sure about shoulder bolts for the chains on the side. They might need be set in slightly to clear the tailgate now is flush with the back. Would also be sure to reinforce the shoulder bolts. A lot more weight can be apply verse swinging doors. Couple seat on the end of the tailgate with have a lot of leverage working against the shoulder bolts.
When I mounted it (bottom hinges), it protruded just a bit. I flattened them and it worked out for mine. I did add a piece of I think 1" x ½" channel on each side for the extra support of the shoulder bolts and used the existing ambulance door licenses plate wire loom hole for the right side mount and added the left side hole at the same distance up. Worked fine. To be able to use both lower hinge bolt hole on each, I had to move the gap up a bit to gain room for the lower riv-nuts to clear the bottom of the backside of the rear sill lip and not have too much hinge over hang. If you noticed, I have the hinges mounted with windshield hinge button bolts for now until I have the originals re-plated. I had extra. 🍻
 
🤔🤔

Watching as I plan a drop down tailgate.
What do have now and what do you need?
Do you make a version that is flat so it sits flush for late models?
I am poking around for something like this as this is part of the quandary I need to solve. @cruisermatt your hinges look really nice, a bit out of the range price wise to make a package though, at least for what I am trying to do.
 
What do have now and what do you need?

I am poking around for something like this as this is part of the quandary I need to solve. @cruisermatt your hinges look really nice, a bit out of the range price wise to make a package though, at least for what I am trying to do.

We definitely are not getting rich selling tailgate hinges :lol:
They are quite labor intensive in their current form, the pins are stainless from SMG as well.
 
We definitely are not getting rich selling tailgate hinges :lol:
They are quite labor intensive in their current form, the pins are stainless from SMG as well.
Oh, I get it. They are awesome.
 

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