Builds Fj40 Daily and Wheeler build

[White Stripe]

So

today I worked on trying to get the new front housing in. I also made some different shackles that will give me another half inch ride height. I figure I should get the height determined before i set the caster and diff angle.

 

[yotafj]

Don't look bad when you flex you should have plenty of room since it will travel back into the fender and a longer wheel base ain't bad to have

 

[47coeman]

Leave it alone looks good, what is the total wheel base...

 

[White Stripe]

Yesterday I tacked the spring perches in place, so today I set the caster. I found this cool little digital magnetic angle gauge at harbor freight. I was aiming for around 5 degrees of caster. The differential is pointed up 8 degrees. I measured the knuckle balls from many different angles to get everything even from side to side, then I did some nice and cold tacks so everything stayed put.

For now I am going to leave the axle at about 3" forward. I will have to take everything back apart because I have to order parts, and I may set it to 2" forward because it just seems like everything is going to work well at 2".

 

[dancar]

Looks good, you're making some good progress.

I've gotta ask, what is the radiator for? Oil/transmission or power steering? What's the clearance like now the axle is 3" closer to the front?

Dan

 

[White Stripe]

Looks good, you're making some good progress.

I've gotta ask, what is the radiator for? Oil/transmission or power steering? What's the clearance like now the axle is 3" closer to the front?

Dan

I have been running 2" spacers and 2" offset wheels with the stock axles and when I go offroad the steering would get really hot because of the terrible scrub radius. But I loved the stability, and handling for the most part, so I added the cooler. Its totally in the way now and I will have to move it somewhere else. I won't need the spacers with this axle or the offset wheels. Clearance wise with the shackle reversal the axle will almost hit the bump stops in their factory location. If I move the axle back an inch I think I wont have to move the stops. Otherwise their is no other clearance issues that I see yet. I may get a different pitman arm, but its too early to tell.

 

[White Stripe]

I pulled the housing out and started burning in some serious welds. I have material for adding some braces to the knuckle balls and shock tabs, but couldn't find it, so until I buy more steel it won't get that done.

Since I was cutting and welding I decided to cut out the drain plug and recess it into the housing. Some guys just cut it out and use a differential stud hole as a drain, but I like having a magnet in the diff to collect shavings. Basically I just cut around the stock drain hole guard, then pushed it in flush and welded it. Way easy when its on a bench.

 

[just differentials]

Flush mounting the drain plug is very cool and I agree that having that magnet is smart. I am also a fan of the stretched wheelbase. Can't wait to see it when you are done!

 

[White Stripe]

Flush mounting the drain plug is very cool and I agree that having that magnet is smart. I am also a fan of the stretched wheelbase. Can't wait to see it when you are done!

Thanks man. Yeah with the ARB in the diff their and bearings and such, less metal floating around is a good thing.

 

[Fast Eddy]

What? How can you set the caster without the weight on it?

Have you checked your steering clearance? With the front of the springs way up like that, It could interfere with the leaf spring when articulating. I got lucky with mine, but Chicago's hit the springs and he had to deal with it. Maybe it's less of a deal with SUA.

 

[White Stripe]

What? How can you set the caster without the weight on it?

Have you checked your steering clearance? With the front of the springs way up like that, It could interfere with the leaf spring when articulating. I got lucky with mine, but Chicago's hit the springs and he had to deal with it. Maybe it's less of a deal with SUA.

If u look I have it sitting on jacks. Im still yet to fully mock up the steering. Surprisingly though the caster changed little between droop and weighted

 

[BC40]

Interesting build. Curious how it will drive/feel with the spring geometry that way, with fixed end so much higher than the shackle end.

 

[White Stripe]

Interesting build. Curious how it will drive/feel with the spring geometry that way, with fixed end so much higher than the shackle end.

It has been done before. Their was a fairly popular green 40 a while ago with 37s that had it that used to be on mud. It was on the cover of 4wd toyota magazine going up the Helldorado waterfall. I plan on driving it daily, I hope it will handle better than before. The caster was terrible before. Otherwise I will have to start cutting and welding again.

 

[Fast Eddy]

If u look I have it sitting on jacks. Im still yet to fully mock up the steering. Surprisingly though the caster changed little between droop and weighted

The jacks aren't in the same spot as the axle though. Your shackles are pretty straight up and down, so putting the weight on it doesn't change the angle much. I'd want them over 30 degrees with the weight on it for a more progressive spring feel.

If you have adjustable perches, I'd move the axle back an inch to avoid getting into the fender when flexed, but it's easy to change later if you want, as long as your drive shaft has enough flex. I assume with the pinion pointing up like that you're going to have a dual-cardan driveshaft?

Interesting build. Curious how it will drive/feel with the spring geometry that way, with fixed end so much higher than the shackle end.

My SOA is sort of like that. I have one inch blocks at the front pushing it down some, and my shackles are more like 45 degrees with the weight on it. Mine also has longer springs from the rear of an fj55.

 

[White Stripe]

The jacks aren't in the same spot as the axle though. Your shackles are pretty straight up and down, so putting the weight on it doesn't change the angle much. I'd want them over 30 degrees with the weight on it for a more progressive spring feel.

If you have adjustable perches, I'd move the axle back an inch to avoid getting into the fender when flexed, but it's easy to change later if you want, as long as your drive shaft has enough flex. I assume with the pinion pointing up like that you're going to have a dual-cardan driveshaft?



My SOA is sort of like that. I have one inch blocks at the front pushing it down some, and my shackles are more like 45 degrees with the weight on it. Mine also has longer springs from the rear of an fj55.

Yeah, I have the shackle hangars just tacked in for now. I can easily move them. For now I just wanted them at a decent and even starting point so I could get the caster set. I did think about the jacks placement, but didn't think it would make much difference if they were set a little ways back. Now that I have the wheels on, the shackle looks like it was indeed in the same position as it was during mock up. SUA does change some of the geometry compared to SOA. I don't know about the drive shaft yet, I know I will get a vibration at high speed if I don't use double cardan, but I very rarely ever drive on the street in 4wd, so I dont know if it will really be an issue, not sure yet.

 

[lcwizard]

Interesting build. Curious how it will drive/feel with the spring geometry that way, with fixed end so much higher than the shackle end.

The ride, straight line, will be more stable with the extra caster. The adverse effect of the spring in that configuration probably is irrelevant since
this is a 40 and not a sports car. There will be more understeer but I'd think you get used to that pretty quickly. When cornering the outside compresses under body roll. The wheel will travel rearward on the outside of the turn and forward on the inside under body roll. The front axle will try to point away from the direction you're turning if that makes sense. Generally designers will try to set the spring eyes level to each other to make the upward travel of the wheel as vertical as possible to avoid the drastic deflection differences. Hence the tall tower on shackle reversal kits. I certainly didn't build a thousand kits with the sole intent of annoying people with that obnoxiously tall hanger. There is theory behind these things but we all know we are willing to mess with the "correct" setup to achieve what we want. All arched springs will affect under and over steer.
I'd be the last to preach to leave it stock. There's no adventure in that. Run it and let us know what you think. How many great innovations started with an unreadable smudge on a blueprint?

 

[Fast Eddy]

I certainly didn't build a thousand kits with the sole intent of annoying people with that obnoxiously tall hanger.

I built mine the way I did with the #1 goal of maximizing bumper/rock clearance. My #2 goal is to never get into a corner enough to notice understeer.

 

[lcwizard]

That's the way I'd do my own. Off road first and deal with the road manners as they end up. Besides every 40 with even a mild lift is going to change the stock handling. If we spend time worrying about such things we'd be better off in a RAV4...totally stock

 

[White Stripe]

That's the way I'd do my own. Off road first and deal with the road manners as they end up. Besides every 40 with even a mild lift is going to change the stock handling. If we spend time worrying about such things we'd be better off in a RAV4...totally stock

Ya I figure their will be good and bads about this setup just like any setup has on a truck. But offroad the shackles hit everything, I could lift it a bunch more to avoid this, but then that causes rollovers which is worse than hitting shackles on everything haha. The other 40 I saw with this setup was driven daily pretty far distances. The owner was pretty happy with the results it seems from what he has posted on the net. Here it is:
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k254/boxrocket/cruiser/profile.jpg

 

[White Stripe]

Today I got the U-bolts in and the spring plates fabbed up. I also pretty much finished the steering except I need to install the steering stops. I still have to run the brake lines, and a few other details. Next step I will add trusses/supports for the housing-once they are tacked in, I will pull the housing out, and paint it. I want to drive it a little just to make sure it tracks good before I do a final weld up of everything which will require the front brakes working. I tried flexing it out-no go with no front brakes. Fortunately I didn't kill myself.I moved the axle back 1 inch and it looks like things will work way better though.