FJ40 12HT Swap & 60 Series Axles

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I believe the bleeders on the calipers need to be on the bottom. i think you need to flip them from side to side
 
What ? Bleeders on the bottom, you trying to prank this kid ?
My Bad on the blue 40 i have they were on the bottom. I did not put them on
 
I thought it was cause you've been upside down under your rig so much lately.
This is most likely LOL. i should just put a hammock under mine since i live there
 
Progress continues:
-Flipped springs
-Handled fallout from springs being backwards (had to shorten driveshafts and re-mount shocks)
-Spent a full day modifying radiator shroud to fit
-Mounted radiator
-Built the most intricate battery tray known to man
-Installed dual batteries
-Installed fuel tank selection valve system
-Built tie-rod
-Cut and customized drag link
-Built pitman arm
-Finished all steering components
-Did a ghetto alignment with a tape measure
-All coolant components are done
-Installed secondary coolant temp sensor for non-Toyota gauge

Remaining:
-Wiring
-Dif breathers
-Add fuel return to factory tank
-Mount factory tank
-seats
-Driveshafts
-Lights
-Bleed brakes
-Test engine
-Test vehicle

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Sorry if I've missed it, what brake calipers are you using?
 
Wiring has begun

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I plasma cut some custom tail-light, reverse light, and hazard light mounts.

Bolt to factory holes if people want some for themselves.

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Wire soup

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Wiring is almost done

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More progress:

All wiring is now complete. All that needs doing is to tidy up the loom and wires.

All gauges seem to be working as desired, and my running lights, hazards, blinkers, reverse, and brake lights are in.

Windshield wiper wiring was quite the puzzle but they’re hooked up and running.

The dual fuel tank selector valve works beautifully so far, and the second (the factory) fuel tank is cleaned up and installed.

I now have about 50 gallons of capacity available.

I also added a threaded rod strut to the radiator to keep it at the desired angle (front/back). Incase I hit a big bump or impact something I won’t pack my radiator into the fan. Later I plan to add a second strut to the passenger side, but it should do for now.

Last steps are approaching. Any thoughts on whether I should run red or green coolant????

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Should I use red or green coolant?
 
Any pro tips? I need to swap my transfer case flanges to FJ60 flanges.

I can’t get the nut off the front of the tcase. I’m worried I’m going to break something. My 1/2” drive impact can’t get it off.

I don’t want to have to use my 1” drive semi-truck impact gun.
 
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Any pro tips? I need to swap my transfer case flanges to FJ60 flanges.

I can’t get the nut off the front of the tcase. I’m worried I’m going to break something. My 1/2” drive impact can’t get it off.

I don’t want to have to use my 1” drive semi-truck impact gun.
Don't use a gun, get a larger breaker and fashion a lock for the flange to rest against transmission while you break it loose.....I'm sure you did, but the stakes have been removed from the stake nut, yes?

Should I use red or green coolant?
Red for aluminum radiators. I'm sure most coolants will work fine, but might as well stick with red. Key is using mineral free water to limit any unwanted minerals longterm.
 
Update:

Removed the nut stakes first thing. I had a 4 foot cheater-bar on my breaker bar and the nuts didn’t come loose.

F-it. Hit it with the mega impact 1” drive we use for the semi trucks. That got it done.

Swapped flanges. Torqued to spec. Installed driveshafts.

Promptly found out my flanges were on the wrong sides of the tcase.

Removed driveshafts, de-staked the nuts, removed with pry bar, swapped flanges AGAIN, re-torqued, staked, and installed shafts.

All is well in the world. Working a full shift then wrenching until 3am has its downsides (like having to do a job twice because you’re sleep deprived).

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