I can't tell from the photos but I see a vacuum line going across the valve cover to the throttle body, and I'm guessing that is hooked up to the distributor. Have you tested the vacuum diaphragm in the distributor?
fj running rich (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Kschep
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more images
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I will be once I find out how to vac check breathing and purchase the tools or tools I need to do that. I didn’t think i didn’t think I could spray carb spray to check that or else just further corrode the rubber
Unplug the hose from the carb and plug that port, then see how it runs. Also, don't use that manifold gasket, they are terrible. Get a remflex gasket and save yourself the headache 
Side note: I just re-installed all of the factory smog equipment back onto my 78. Check the link in my sig if you need to see any pics for reference.
Side note: I just re-installed all of the factory smog equipment back onto my 78. Check the link in my sig if you need to see any pics for reference.
X2^^^ www.catalog.remflex.com
Here's the kit I used https://amzn.to/3xudCgg
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- #27
Please some pics would be helpful to my eyes so I’ll check ur sigUnplug the hose from the carb and plug that port, then see how it runs. Also, don't use that manifold gasket, they are terrible. Get a remflex gasket and save yourself the headache
Side note: I just re-installed all of the factory smog equipment back onto my 78. Check the link in my sig if you need to see any pics for reference.
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- #28
All the sudden I don’t hear the click - checked my connections look clean as I did them, will get my tester and test is any volts going to from my 7th circuit breaker? Maybe I out in a 10 when it’s supposed to be a 20, BUT no blown fuse’s at fuse bank …
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Just run a jump wire to the coil to test it. That’s what I did for @airon23 when I was passing through Reno a few years ago.
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- #30
Update:
so purchased the remflex gasket - they shipped same day! So should be here today!!!
Also purchased the vac test kit
so purchased the remflex gasket - they shipped same day! So should be here today!!!
Also purchased the vac test kit
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- #31
Ok so i pbblasted the nuts - preparing to take off and replace gasket that arrived today just as I suspected.
Solenoid not clicking - so ya im embarrassed about that but no it’s not clicking so I’ve ejected the wire from behind the fuse box.
Should the solenoid black/yellow be a direct connection to fuse box to solenoid or should there be a splice that goes do to the distributor- which wasn’t grounded correctly anyways … pics …
Solenoid not clicking - so ya im embarrassed about that but no it’s not clicking so I’ve ejected the wire from behind the fuse box.
Should the solenoid black/yellow be a direct connection to fuse box to solenoid or should there be a splice that goes do to the distributor- which wasn’t grounded correctly anyways … pics …
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More pics
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- #33
So where does the fuel cutoff solenoid ground at?
My yellow arrow indicates a possible grounding but I have no grounding wire coming off my solenoid…so I’m confused.
Also, per my wiring diagram it did slice off to “regulator” not distributor (my bad on the semantics) …. And the regulator I have I hear tone from that to the fuse box so there is continuity…. I think it’s the ground … so does the fuel solenoid ground through the regulator??
My yellow arrow indicates a possible grounding but I have no grounding wire coming off my solenoid…so I’m confused.
Also, per my wiring diagram it did slice off to “regulator” not distributor (my bad on the semantics) …. And the regulator I have I hear tone from that to the fuse box so there is continuity…. I think it’s the ground … so does the fuel solenoid ground through the regulator??
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- #34
Remember guys my car might be a Canadian import as my Aisen Carb is non-USA model which Jim C seemed to be very happy about for whatever reason. and im still sending it to him regardles of these vac isues that ill fix while its gone being perfected by jim c
wheres @ToyotaMatt when I need him to over-explain everything perfectly so i feel like a profesh after speaking with....lol
wheres @ToyotaMatt when I need him to over-explain everything perfectly so i feel like a profesh after speaking with....lol
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fjc-man
SILVER Star
If that’s a single wire solenoid, the carb body to intake manifold to block… is the ground.
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- #36
I see hmm maybe bec of the trial headers there’s something in the way and I need to ground it some other way
,
did you bench test this 1 wire version above yet kyle ?
- ground the gold zinc housing
- B+ the wire plug end
- i should click YES !
- if not ?
- it is bad and you need a new one
- the below is my 2 wire later modle version Kyle
- it WILL and does plug and play on ALL 1/75-9/87 2F carbs
- the extra 2nd wire is a polarized ground
- this ensures it CLICKS all the time reliable and safe too
but first , confirm and verify your current one , also KEY ON and and test light the black wire w/ yellow tracer stripe that plugs into it now ,
ensure you have B+ kye ON
and NO B+ key off
you follow me here on the above ....
you can do this Kyle , no sweat buddy !
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
When I removed the emissions from my 78 I replaced the carb with a Rochester 2 jet and it had a mount for different jets. When I was in college I blew the head gasket and pulled the head for a valve job. I asked the shop to mill the head and I didn't know how much and trusted them to take the right amount off.ok so my 40 has been running rich since i bought it. P.O. ripped out emissions system. im in CA and I just got a stickerdont ask how...lol...anyways the main story i need help with is getting it to run without me having to turn the fast ide up basically all the way AS WELL AS having the choke out halfway just to keep the damn thing running at stops when i rpm down.
super annoying. Guy says just get a new carb. So im like okayy i could do that and im happy to do that but because P.O. ripped out emissions system, if I ordered a new '76 carb I'm nervous that I'd have to adjust it to work with my rig - meaning if no emissions systemprese t then all the vacuum lines that go to the carb are non-existent. therefore i just cap them?
i have no idea how my P.O. (or his mechanic) manipulated the carb to work. after studying it (the carb) its a combo of two different years - top part / bottom part - 2 different years (if im correct - i looked on the carb identifier on SOR so im pretty sure im correct).
I also know tons of people rip out their emissions systems so there should be some easy way to deal with a new carb.
i bought a rebuild kit for a '76 carb - took the ****er apart, cleaned the jets added the new seals and whatnot - put it back together - same ****ing problem. so im exhausted by this, I just wanna be able to drive my 40 without tasting gasoline in the nostrils. lol
anyways im thinking smaller jets i dunno, im lost on this and no one around me will help me. ive tried valley hybrids, mudrak. they are the only ones close to me, but i cant get them to even look at it. super annoying. their always "busy" and i cant "get in line" bec their 'workload is too high" ... I just need an assessment and ill do the work myself s***.
do you guys think i should just a new carb or what?
thank you for any assistance or suggestions based on what i said.
They took 0.050" off of the head which worked fine at the elevation I lived at over 6000 feet but worked up in Portland, OR for a year and could not drive with out the choke pulled out and had the biggest jets I could buy to keep it from knocking. Ended up with a 155F to replace the 2F because it was available and free.
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More pics… did Inhavw the auto meter on the incorrect setting!?
Also remember, I had to take out the solenoid wire out of the fuse box because assumed it was a bad splice situation going to volt reg.
Anyways I tried what you said (I think) see pics … and then bec the main wire wasn’t attached to fuse box I pushed against the B+ too.
Tried both ways with key forward one position
(Meaning black wire out of fuse box and then attached to B+ as well as the prong for the meter.
NO CLICKS Whatsoever -
Did I do something wrong ?
Also remember, I had to take out the solenoid wire out of the fuse box because assumed it was a bad splice situation going to volt reg.
Anyways I tried what you said (I think) see pics … and then bec the main wire wasn’t attached to fuse box I pushed against the B+ too.
Tried both ways with key forward one position
(Meaning black wire out of fuse box and then attached to B+ as well as the prong for the meter.
NO CLICKS Whatsoever -
Did I do something wrong ?
