FJ40 Not Running (1 Viewer)

[Wendy Hill]

1976 FJ40. A friend of mine just purchased an FJ and is very pleased with the car and although it ran fine at first, it soon (within a day) developed an issue staying running. It will start perfectly but when you release the ignition switch to the Run position, it dies. I can run a jumper between the positive terminal on the battery and the same on the coil and the engine runs fine (problem goes away). We checked the ignition switch and it seems to be providing power in the Run position, as it should. That power is apparently not getting to the coil though. The coil is mounted horizontally and has some type of regulator-looking device on top, as well as what appears to be a ballast resistor. (what is that device
The interesting thing is that the problem arose after a short drive and the engine overheating. I can't see how the two could be related but that's a pretty big coincidence. We're both new to the FJ and hoping to have a few experienced persons give us some guidance. Even a wiring diagram would be most helpful.
Thanks!

 

[charliemeyer007]

You need to get a book. Chiltion will work but if you poke around here on the site you can find Toyota stuff to buy and maybe even download. Your wiring is nearly 50 years old. Get some electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease some small picks/scrapers/needle files/emery board/erasers and then pull every plug apart to clean and inspect the contacts. Unscrew/bolt the rest of the connections and do the same. Seems to me I have had to replace my Ignition switch twice since 82 - the first time it caught fire.

 

[Living in the Past]

There is a resistor inline while running that is bypassed during starting. That is part of the ignitor you pictured. That would could be a use that problem. Ignition switch could also cause the problem but less likely.

 

[Wendy Hill]

Thanks very much. I'll check the resistor. The first check would to just be sure it has continuity. If it does, what are the ohms I should be looking for?
Thanks again.

 

[1911]

Thanks very much. I'll check the resistor. The first check would to just be sure it has continuity. If it does, what are the ohms I should be looking for?
Thanks again.

1.3 - 1.5 Ohms, according to my 1980 factory service manual; hopefully not too different for your 1976.

 

[jmylie]

Ballast resister would be my guess. If it starts but does not run, ballast resister.

 

[Shark56]

Is there a wire hooked up here on the Resistor?

Looks like just a connector but camera angle could be hiding the wire.

 

[Wendy Hill]

1.3 - 1.5 Ohms, according to my 1980 factory service manual; hopefully not too different for your 1976.

Very good. Thank you.

 

[Rzeppa]

That's the igniter, which is a current amplifier which takes the current that flows through the points and amplifies it to send to the primary of the ignition coil. Its purpose is to prolong the life of the points while still providing a "hot" spark. It can be bypassed and simply let all the current go through the points. If bypassing it fixes the problem, then you know your igniter is faulty. Only 1976 and 1977 model years used this arrangement, prior years simply used a ballast resistor and 1978-up used electronic ignition with a different type of igniter.