rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
WTG big guy.
FJ 62 SOA begins!
- Thread starter chicago
- Start date
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WTG big guy.
Keith you da Man! Now for a smurf blue 60 series run! I bet you are glad you did it now huh?
Dylan
Dylan
WOW!!
That is somthing to envy! Good job brother......can't wait to hear about your thoughts about it on the trails. Congrats again!
Matt J
That is somthing to envy! Good job brother......can't wait to hear about your thoughts about it on the trails. Congrats again!
Matt J
looks great! what's next on the list? or is it time to wheel and relax?
Looks beautiful! Can't wait to see it flex out!
- Thread starter
- #406
Thanks for the props gents!!!
Im very excited!
Ive got a few details still, that need to be done!
Still need to bleed the brakes, take her in for an alignement, then flex and measure for shocks, get the shocks, mount the front shock tabs, weld in the shock towers (theyre just drilled and tapped into the frame right now with a 1/2 in bolt), then take it down to Sam at Samco Fabrication here in Reno and see what he can come up with for a x member for the trac bar, then build the trac bar, then I can take her on her maiden voyage and see how she feels!
After that, Im gonna install a tranny cooler, then get started on the sliders!
I just bought a used Lincoln stick welder from one of our customers for 150.00!!!! Its was a deal I couldnt pass up! Its a 220 AC/DC lincoln stick welder with 25 ft of cable... Its been sitting for a bit, so I have to blow the dust out, but it was too small of a machine for the structural steel they were doing on buildings, so I dont think it was used too much!
Now I just gotta run the power for it!
Ill be down for a run shortly!!!
Chicago
Im very excited!
Ive got a few details still, that need to be done!
Still need to bleed the brakes, take her in for an alignement, then flex and measure for shocks, get the shocks, mount the front shock tabs, weld in the shock towers (theyre just drilled and tapped into the frame right now with a 1/2 in bolt), then take it down to Sam at Samco Fabrication here in Reno and see what he can come up with for a x member for the trac bar, then build the trac bar, then I can take her on her maiden voyage and see how she feels!
After that, Im gonna install a tranny cooler, then get started on the sliders!
I just bought a used Lincoln stick welder from one of our customers for 150.00!!!! Its was a deal I couldnt pass up! Its a 220 AC/DC lincoln stick welder with 25 ft of cable... Its been sitting for a bit, so I have to blow the dust out, but it was too small of a machine for the structural steel they were doing on buildings, so I dont think it was used too much!
Now I just gotta run the power for it!
Ill be down for a run shortly!!!
Chicago
You did an awesome job man, Im proud of ya little buddy.
- Thread starter
- #408
Thanks Lowtide!
- Thread starter
- #409
Keith you da Man! Now for a smurf blue 60 series run! I bet you are glad you did it now huh?
Dylan
Yeah!
except now Im BROKE and cant afford to put gas in it!!!
Chicago
- Thread starter
- #410
Looks good! I can hear those tires howling already
theyll be good for lulling me to sleep!!
Damm!!!! that looks awsome, really nice job chicago it seems that worth the trouble, money and time since october haha cool!!!1
and let's see some pics of the testing
haha cool!!!1 and let's see some pics of the testing 
Keith:
You probably know this already but what the heck: When you start rolling your rig be sure to take it easy for the first 500 miles (stay on the easy roads...avoid high stress trails/obstacles) due to your new R&P's. Use dino oil in the diffs right now...for the first 100-ish miles keep the speed under 45-50mph to reduce the heat build up within the diffs due to the new R&P surfaces trying to "polish/mate". I would run the rig for a max of 1-hour then allow a good 2-3 hours for cool down...and repeat for at least the first 100 miles. Then at 500-miles drain both diffs and put fresh diff lube back in. Repeat again at maybe 2,500 miles. I was still getting metal dust on mine after 10K albeit alot less than I pulled at 500 miles and then again at 2K (be sure to use a diff drain plug with a magnet to catch all this metal dust).
Be patient...break it in right!
You probably know this already but what the heck: When you start rolling your rig be sure to take it easy for the first 500 miles (stay on the easy roads...avoid high stress trails/obstacles) due to your new R&P's. Use dino oil in the diffs right now...for the first 100-ish miles keep the speed under 45-50mph to reduce the heat build up within the diffs due to the new R&P surfaces trying to "polish/mate". I would run the rig for a max of 1-hour then allow a good 2-3 hours for cool down...and repeat for at least the first 100 miles. Then at 500-miles drain both diffs and put fresh diff lube back in. Repeat again at maybe 2,500 miles. I was still getting metal dust on mine after 10K albeit alot less than I pulled at 500 miles and then again at 2K (be sure to use a diff drain plug with a magnet to catch all this metal dust).
Be patient...break it in right!
- Thread starter
- #413
Im glad that you mentioned this Dan, cuz I had NO IDEA about this procedure!
I would have just went on my merry way to breakage!
Chicago
- Thread starter
- #414
FIRST RIDE....FIRST IMPRESSIONS!!!
Rusty TLC came over to help me bleed my brakes...I readjusted the e brake and fired the beast up for th first time in months! Took a few cranks, but she ran fine!
My thought was, that WITHOUT shocks, and the SOA the rig would be rolling all over the place...NOT TRUE AT ALL!
I took things pretty easy at first listening and feeling, and aside from my bad alignment job, the rig felt pretty stable.
I did some cornering at varying speeds and there no more roll than I had when I was SUA with sways connected. I suspect that the AAL's are helping this issued quite a bit.
I felt the locker un load, and it scared the piss outta me.
The brakes Ive always had problems with...So when I did all the work, I made a bracket for the LSPV and cranked that motha up...
The brakes are still pretty crappy, but theyre better then they were before. After the initial run, I came back home put a few more clicks to the drum and theyre better than the ever were...still not great, but now at least I can feel the rears engauging.
Tomorrow shes getting an alignment, then Im gonn flex to measure for shocks!
Chicago
Rusty TLC came over to help me bleed my brakes...I readjusted the e brake and fired the beast up for th first time in months! Took a few cranks, but she ran fine!
My thought was, that WITHOUT shocks, and the SOA the rig would be rolling all over the place...NOT TRUE AT ALL!
I took things pretty easy at first listening and feeling, and aside from my bad alignment job, the rig felt pretty stable.
I did some cornering at varying speeds and there no more roll than I had when I was SUA with sways connected. I suspect that the AAL's are helping this issued quite a bit.
I felt the locker un load, and it scared the piss outta me.
The brakes Ive always had problems with...So when I did all the work, I made a bracket for the LSPV and cranked that motha up...
The brakes are still pretty crappy, but theyre better then they were before. After the initial run, I came back home put a few more clicks to the drum and theyre better than the ever were...still not great, but now at least I can feel the rears engauging.
Tomorrow shes getting an alignment, then Im gonn flex to measure for shocks!
Chicago
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great write up man... makes me wanna do it too!
CONGRATS!!! 
Its a long process for sure. I've referred quite a few folks to this thread already as you have done an excellent job documenting all the steps. Customers always inquire as to why SOA conversions cost so much from a shop, "I mean afterall its just as easy as flipping the perches and getting some longer shocks right?" There are alot of little items that will nickle and dime you until the end, especially when you starting considering gears/lockers, etc... which the rig will need after the taller tires.
Congrats again, glad to hear its on its own power again!
Its a long process for sure. I've referred quite a few folks to this thread already as you have done an excellent job documenting all the steps. Customers always inquire as to why SOA conversions cost so much from a shop, "I mean afterall its just as easy as flipping the perches and getting some longer shocks right?"
There are alot of little items that will nickle and dime you until the end, especially when you starting considering gears/lockers, etc... which the rig will need after the taller tires.Congrats again, glad to hear its on its own power again!
Congrats Keith!!!!
Lets break it in soon,
('Con or not Mace)
Lets break it in soon,
('Con or not Mace)
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
I should have hung out a little while longer, I would have loved to see your face as you rolled out of the garage.
You probably had that same stupid sh*t eating grin on your face that I did.
You gonna be ready for a trip into the hills next Friday?
Or maybe before?
saweeeeeeeeeet. one year myine too will be sprung over or some kinda cool link set up.
lovin it keith. get her all cleaned up and get us some pics.
lovin it keith. get her all cleaned up and get us some pics.
